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Bigger wick, same melt pool


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Hi all!

I was testing a 4 x 4.5" pillar over the weekend, using 1 lb of 6228, 1/4 tsp vybar 103, a tiny bit of fo and tiny bit of color. I started off with a CD16, and after 4 hours, only had a 2" mp. So I yanked out the wick and stuck in a CD22. The mp didnt ever get any bigger. The candle is tunneling down and there is a big shell, about 2" wide all around. Why didnt I get a bigger mp with the bigger wick? Thanks for any info you can provide!!!

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It was probably a teensy bit bigger if you measure carefully. CDs aren't the melt pool champions of the world so you might want to try LX or something. You'll also need to do longer tests for a 4 inch pillar. Remember the 1 hour per inch rule. An appropriate memory burn for this size candle is 4 or 5 hours.

You shouldn't be adding Vybar to 6228 as it may cause unpredictable results. This is a preformulated wax.

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Not sure how much a teensy bit of FO is, but if you're testing to find the right wick size, you need to use the full amount of FO. The amount of FO will change the way it burns. By using a lesser amount you may completely void your wick testing. (Unless the "teensy" amount is how much of that FO you're plannig to continue using in that formual....)

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Yep, that's the pain about pillars. You need to start off with a new top. One of the things i've done is to use our circular saw (not sure of its real name) and cut the top off just below the circle created by the first burn, pull out the wick and start again. Don't try this if you haven't used power tools before.

I think you could also take out the wick and melt the top of the candle down until you get past the melt pool previously formed, let the candle cool and rewick it. You'd have to have a way to punch a hole for the wick though.

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Yep, that's the pain about pillars. You need to start off with a new top. One of the things i've done is to use our circular saw (not sure of its real name) and cut the top off just below the circle created by the first burn, pull out the wick and start again. Don't try this if you haven't used power tools before.

I think you could also take out the wick and melt the top of the candle down until you get past the melt pool previously formed, let the candle cool and rewick it. You'd have to have a way to punch a hole for the wick though.

It's an interesting question whether that's good enough for testing. I suppose it may be, but the inside of the candle is liable to be different from the top for a multitude of reasons. It cools more slowly, FO migrates, some addtives like stearic don't distribute evenly, etc.
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Have done it all the ways suggested. Sometimes I've also cut the candle up in pieces before wicking. I've tried the melt down, but found that sometimes, no matter how low a heat I've used, the FO has burned off making the candle different than the original. Usuall when I've found a wick I like I make a new one and burn it several times, almost to the end.

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