StickyWick Posted December 24, 2006 Share Posted December 24, 2006 Yep, I'm a newbie, but I do learn fast I am working with straight parafin wax and a seamed metal pillar container. My problem is air bubbles, or what seems like air bubbles. At least that is what it looks like.My first pour was interesting, but not entirely bad. I got the wax up to 180, per the basic book's instructions. Lots of bubbles, espaecially at the base of the candle. They were on the outside of the candle. Now, on this one I did use a mold release of a cooking spray, again per the book's instructions.My second candle enjoyed a VERY clean container and no mold release. I brought the wax up to 195 and did what I would think would be a slow pour. The results were greatly improved, but again I still have air bubbles.The biggest concern I have is the bubbles that are deep in the candle and look like clouds in the wax. I can include a picture is that will make it easier for someone to direct me in the right direction.Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob in tx Posted December 24, 2006 Share Posted December 24, 2006 Stickywick are you poking relief holes while the candle cures. Rob in tx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StickyWick Posted December 24, 2006 Author Share Posted December 24, 2006 Relief holes? No poking going on here. How would I do this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob in tx Posted December 24, 2006 Share Posted December 24, 2006 Not sure if it will solve your bubbles on the outside. But what I do is after the candle sets for about 45 minutes. I use a wooden skewer and poke four holes around the wick. If you are using the WCT or the Wick Pin same thing. I go down about 1" from the bottom which is actually the top. Anyway I keep putting the skeweres in the holes. Then I do my second pour. HTHRob in tx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob in tx Posted December 24, 2006 Share Posted December 24, 2006 SickyWick that is how I do it with my wax. I use IGI 4625 not sure of other waxes. Something you have to test until you get it like you want. Rob in tx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StickyWick Posted December 24, 2006 Author Share Posted December 24, 2006 I go down about 1" from the bottom which is actually the top.I am slightly confused. You mean when I take the candle out of the mold, the bottom is the top? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob in tx Posted December 24, 2006 Share Posted December 24, 2006 StickyWick, do you have a concave bottom mold or a flat bottom mold. On the Concave Bottom mold when you pull the candle out of the mold the bottom is actually the top. After I make my first pour I usually tap on the mold to help settle the wax.Tap lightly if you dent the mold it will be hard to come out and will leave marks on the candle. I Wait about 45 minutes and then I pole relief holes. Like I said the curing time may vary with different waxes. Ive never dealt with Soy or Palm so Im not sure how fast or slow they need to cure. HTHThese are candles from a concave bottom mold. The top is concaved and has a chamfered edge. The top was the bottom of the mold when I made the candles. Rob in tx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StickyWick Posted December 24, 2006 Author Share Posted December 24, 2006 Ok. Now I understand. I am using a flat bottom mold not a concave bottom mold. *Makes note to find a concave bottom mold*Does the mold also do the chamfered edge or do you do that after it is released from the mold? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob in tx Posted December 24, 2006 Share Posted December 24, 2006 StickyWick the mold does it for you. You can look around at different suppliers. They have a lot of different style and shaped molds. Some of the Square molds have a flat bottom but a chamfered edge. You just have to look around and see what you like best. The main thing is to keep testing until you get a nice and safe burning candle. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StickyWick Posted December 24, 2006 Author Share Posted December 24, 2006 Rob, thanks for all the great advice. One more question if I might. Is the temperature range that I am use (190-200) ok? Should it be lower or higher? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob in tx Posted December 24, 2006 Share Posted December 24, 2006 It depends on the kind of wax you are using. I pour my wax at about 185 to 190. There are a lot of experienced candle makers on here that use alot of different types of waxes. You can do searches on this board and find a lot of information. It would be good to do a search for your wax and see what everyone has to say about your wax and different things they have run it to.A lot of good information.HTHRob in tx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alohagirl Posted December 24, 2006 Share Posted December 24, 2006 Hey Stickywax, you asked about the cloudy spots inside the candle. They're sometimes called "fingernail" marks. (I thought your search might be easier if you knew the terminology to look for.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StickyWick Posted December 24, 2006 Author Share Posted December 24, 2006 Thanks, AlohaGirl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scented Posted December 25, 2006 Share Posted December 25, 2006 I wish I could see those candles more clearly. IMO the outside bubbles are caused by hot hitting cold. Do you tap your molds? Not bang, but tap. I usually run a skewer or chop stick around the inside of the mold to free up bubbles. Then again, I generally pour about 180. Fingernailing, you'll find a good thread and a lot of thoughts on it on the old forum. It's pretty much trapped gas/air which causes a fracture in the wax. Are you adding any additives to your wax at all? If so, what? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StickyWick Posted December 25, 2006 Author Share Posted December 25, 2006 Hello Scented. I am not using any additives, other than color. I am using a wax color dye.I do tap the mold and check it with a flashlight to make sure that I don't have any air bubbles at that time. It always happens during the setting timeframe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scented Posted December 25, 2006 Share Posted December 25, 2006 It's just pure paraffin right? You might try some additives like a steric or sterine or a vybar 103 and see if that helps with your bubbles. Somehow your mold is cooling too fast and locking in bubbles. Now another thing, if you aren't seeing them using the flashlight etc. are you picking up air where the wick is? Or is the wick sealed off tightly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
topofmurrayhill Posted December 25, 2006 Share Posted December 25, 2006 A white pattern that looks like snow on the surface of the candle or "clouds in the wax" as you described it is mottling, not bubbles. It's a normal and commonly occuring imperfection in the crystal structure of the paraffin, especially when fragrance oil is added to it. Unless it's desired, candles are made with additives to prevent it. A little Vybar will do that, or you can use a preblended wax that has additives in it already (like Rob's IGI 4625). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StickyWick Posted December 25, 2006 Author Share Posted December 25, 2006 It's just pure paraffin right? You might try some additives like a steric or sterine or a vybar 103 and see if that helps with your bubbles. Somehow your mold is cooling too fast and locking in bubbles. Now another thing, if you aren't seeing them using the flashlight etc. are you picking up air where the wick is? Or is the wick sealed off tightly.Yes, it is straight paraffin.It's odd that you mention cooling too fast. I put the basic book that I had bought (and stomped on it repeatedly) and looked at the Basic Instructions here on CandleTech. There were three things that I picked up from those instructions.1. I was using a normal double boiler to melt the wax, then transfering that to a pouring pot, and then pouring that into the mold. They say to use a cookie cutter in the bottom of the boiler pot and to put the pouring pot in the boiler pot, on the cookie cutter. I did that last night.2. As Rob had mentioned, the relief holes. The book said nothing about that. So, after the wax started to setup, I made four holes in the candle.3. I also had seen in the General Information area a process called the water bath. I also did that as well.So, I made a candle last night, a nice deep blue, and added all three of the above to my candle making process. The candle turned out AWESOME!!!I am soo happy with its looks. I will try to post a picture of it later today. The only air bubbles I have are at the very top of the candle and those are right on the corner going from the flat top surface to the sides. I figure I can knock those off with a little chamfering of that corner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scented Posted December 25, 2006 Share Posted December 25, 2006 No need to stomp on books lol! Glad that you've got an awesome looking candle. Most of us look forward to pictures, so hope you post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StickyWick Posted December 25, 2006 Author Share Posted December 25, 2006 The forum would not let me do the attachement. Guess you have to bribe someone. LOL. Anyway, here is my third ever pour! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scented Posted December 25, 2006 Share Posted December 25, 2006 Gorgeous blue! You can barely detect those bubbles around the rim. Great glossy look to it and waterbaths are known to improve sheen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
candleran Posted December 26, 2006 Share Posted December 26, 2006 Beautiful classic candle!Just wanted to add about the relief holes, that Candle Tech themselves explain all about it:http://www.candletech.com/metalpillarmolds/step7.htmBut seems like you already managed it :-)Eran Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
topofmurrayhill Posted December 26, 2006 Share Posted December 26, 2006 Nice job. Be careful not to put the candle in the water bath too soon. When you pour the wax some of it will congeal against the mold, for instance around that top edge. It needs to melt so the wax conforms completely to the mold. That may take a minute or two, then you can dunk it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StickyWick Posted December 26, 2006 Author Share Posted December 26, 2006 Nice job. Be careful not to put the candle in the water bath too soon. When you pour the wax some of it will congeal against the mold, for instance around that top edge. It needs to melt so the wax conforms completely to the mold. That may take a minute or two, then you can dunk it. Oddly enough, through no planning of my own (LOL), that is what happened. I didn't have the water bath ready when I poured it, so it was 5 minutes before I got it in the water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alohagirl Posted December 26, 2006 Share Posted December 26, 2006 I just want to add: If you keep getting those bubbles on the edge like that, after pouring, run a chopstick or bamboo skewer along that part of the mold to knock loose any bubbles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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