soy burning slower in cool weather?

[PamR]

I've been testing the GB444 in 8 oz square mason jars. Had a beautiful burn with Eco 8, in fact, was thinking about trying the eco 6. Our weather went from 91 to 61, & now even the 10's aren't cutting it. I am in Texas & need to ship these to New Jersey. How in the world can I know how they will burn? I never thought it would matter, but apparently it does! Are there better wicks out there for this wax? I've got lx; cd; & some htps. Thanks

Pam R

[silverm00n]

Hi Pam,

I've been using this wax with eco's too. Before I was able to use 6's and 4's and now it seems I'm having the same problem as you. Currently I'm trying cotton core wicks and they seem to be doing better, but I definately feel like I can't rely on my results because I thought I had the wicking down.

I too would like to know what others suggest!

[Crafty1_AJ]

It's hard to wick for every set of circumstances. Sure, we want a clean burn and great throw, but some people live in hot climates, some live where it's cold. Some are marathon burners, others just light for an hour or two at a time. Impossible to wick in a way that will work perfectly for every customer.

Not to discourage you, but just to inject a little dose of reality. I have detailed test-burn notes on all my candles, yet someone might say they had a bit of hangup on the jar. Well, do I wick hotter and risk someone letting a jar get too hot? Or err on the side of safety and wick a little smaller, thus risking a bit of wax left on the sides of the jar in cooler weather?

I just shoot for the middle ground, and when there isn't one, I try to err on the side of safety. JM2C!

[PamR]

Well, I'm glad I'm not the only one with this problem, lol. It makes me want to cuss my head off!! I finally dug out my cotton wicks & they are burning much better, really too much better, lol. I'm wondering if the eco wicks that I bought from a different source are just different. I think this is why I hate doing containers! I also don't like to overwick a container. I'd much rather it took a little longer to get the full mp than to have one so hot you can't touch it. Thanks everyone for your help.

Pam R

[silverm00n]

AJ,

I was doing the wicking down and leaving some hang up, and now it seems that my wick won't even burn at all. After a few hours, I'm not getting a full melt pool, and I haven't changed a thing!

[silkysoycreations]

Having the same issue...using eco 4s for my status jars and not getting a FMP since the weather change, grrrr. I'm in TX.

[RobinInOR]

When I found out how temperature affected the burn of my blends, I stopped being quite so fussy about my wicking. Don't get me wrong, I still put a lot into testing, but I found that the temperature in my basement caused a different burn than when I had it upstairs in warmer rooms.

That's what makes testing so hard - you have to find that middle ground. Not too hot if they marathon burn, and don't want it to go out. I think many customers burn candles for a lot longer than we think they should, so getting a full MP in a longer timeframe is probably going to work out perfectly.

[Henryk]

And if you want - you can always add a percentage (25 or 50%) of a lower melt point soy to your regular soy. I'm experimenting with this with KY125 now - they also sell at 115F melt point soy to blend into a user's regular soy just for the reason you are stating - mainly to get better, and more similar burns as before, during the cold months. Of course, then you have an issue if you send a candle to someone in a warmer climate - but at least you can get attempt to get it to burn like your test burns in your location.

[Dana]

Having the same problem here. They burned fine in August. I ended up switching waxes all together because I couldn't wick up anymore in this container. Where I used to use a 1312 I had to double wick (which I didn't really want to do). I spent LOTS of time and money perfecting this jar the first time. Now to start all over again has been a PITA! These 26 ouncers take FOREVER to test burn too. So I have figured out my summer wicking and winter wicking for this jar. I have been concerned about the ones I sold in August. What if they are just now getting around to burning them? Will they get a complete MP......? Will it drown out.....? What about the ones I sell to different parts of the country? How the heck are we ever supposed to get that "perfect candle" with all these variables?

[Crafty1_AJ]

Well, I sell a LOT of soy candles in summer at the farmer's market. Plus, I have a LOT of website customers who live in the desert southwest. So, I tend to wick for warmer weather. Yes, it means they might have a bit of hangup in the colder months, but I'd rather err on the side of caution. If I wick up, somebody in the summer (or who lives where the climate is warmer) could have an overheated, cracking glass jar on their hands. I'd rather not risk that.

As Robin said, you have to shoot for a middle ground. If my testing shows that I'm on the borderline between two wick choices, I'll choose the smaller to avoid overheating. And I agree; SO many customers burn for really, really long periods of time. I have loads of customers who tell me, "Oh, I burn them all day long."

ETA: To answer your question about "perfect," I think we have to accept that we can aim for our best, but "perfect" does not exist this side of heaven, whether we're talking relationships, jobs, or candles! lol

[silverm00n]

I'm just curious about how the hot throw gets affected, if at all, due to the climate change? If our wicks are affected, and taking longer to get a full MP, would that decrease the throw because the wick is struggling?