Hello, newbie here..

[pooky8]

I started making soap a few months ago...going from MP to CP. I am totally addicted even though I've had my fair share of dissapointments. I've been lurking here for a short while and appreciate learning so much from all of you here.

I have a couple of questions for you. I like to make OMH soap but have only done about 4 batches of it. What confuses me about it is the fine line between full gel & overheating. I've had a batch overheat in the center (not bad, just discolored) but not fully gel to the edge. How might I have it fully gel but not overheat? Is there a trick to this? I use a Sunnybrook mold.

Also, hubby just brough me home some pre-mixed 25% lye solution from work, and I'm not sure how to properly measure it out for a recipe. I've always calculated my recipes based on the amount of a 9.5oz/269g lye container (Canadian Gillett's brand). Anyway, I set the lye solution to 25% on soapcalc, I just punched in a basic 74.838oz. 93% Olive & 7% Castor recipe. It calls for the 9.5 oz lye and 28.49 oz water. So, do I scoop out 28.49oz of solution? or 28.49 + 9.5oz (37.99oz) of solution?

Sorry for getting long winded & confusing, thanks for any help:smiley2:

[blazerina]

Hello and welcome. But I'm going to have to step aside now and let the real experts jump in. <~~~ Still getting my feet wet myself. - Laura

[Crafty1_AJ]

Hi there and welcome! Yes, there sometimes is a fine line between overheating and fully gelling, especially when we're talking about known "heater uppers" like milk, honey, floral fo's, spicy fo's, etc. I love it when fragrance oil sellers let you know to go light on the insulation because this one heats up in the mold, but few give that info.

Some soapers just put their freshly-poured soap into a warm oven to force gel. However, I've heard some get a "volcano" because the soap overheated.

The bottom line is, you just have to know each of your batches and how they behave. For example, I just did some spicy fo's the other day, didn't insulate my molds at all other than putting on the thin wooden lid (I use Uplands), and within an hour they had all gone to full gel just sitting there in my warm workshop.

You also have to take into account the weather. Stuff's just plain going to heat up faster in summer when it's 80 degrees in your workshop, and take its sweet time in the winter when your work area is 69 degrees. LOL In the winter, I insulate my molds with plenty of towels and put the molds in a warm place, usually near the wood stove in my workshop area.

Sorry so long-winded; just not an easy answer here. I hate partial gels and would almost rather my batches get slightly hot than partially gel! Just keep good notes about which batches tend to overheat (OMH is definitely one) and try to repeat the conditions favorable for that batch gelling and not overheating.

Happy soaping!

[Sara]

Personally, I'd skip the pre-made lye solution and do it myself. Then you know for sure what you're dealing with. I'm not Math Wizard enough to rely on a pre-made solution like that. Measuring it out yourself will help with consistancy, too, unless you plan to always use lye your husband brings home from work (and you are certain it is only lye/water).

Honey is a heater for sure. Maybe you should try a couple easy batches (some simple oils) just to see how things behave for you and move up from there. Like and olive/palm/CCO or something?

[pooky8]

Thanks for all your help ladies!

I'll keep on the OMH and just watch it close.

I made a small 2# batch yesterday with this solution. Took a while to trace but seems to have worked out. I did a blind swirl with French Vanilla.

I always make my own lye mixtures, but I figure hey why not give this a go...it's pure and the cost is right. I measured everything accurately by the gram, so now it's just wait & see if it worked!

I can't use this for my OMH for obvious reasons though, so I still have lye for that.

Thanks again!

[Carriegsxr6]

Pooky 8,

Yes you can use the premade lye soloution. On the MMS website they have a soap making calculator which allows you to choose the option of using a premade lye solution.

here is the section i am refering too

Select which type of lye you wish to use.

• Solid Form Lye
  Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH)
  Potassium Hydroxide (KOH)
  Liquid Lye Solution
  If you are using a ready made lye solution, check the box below and enter the enter the strength of your solution. The solution strength needs to be measured as a percentage of lye weight to water weight (% w/w).
  Using Lye Solution % w/w

Make sure you put the little checkmark in the box

here is the link

http://www.thesage.com/calcs/lyecalc2.php

[pooky8]

Hey thanks so much Carrie, I never noticed that there before! It all makes sense now:grin2:.

So I punched in 25% and it said that's too low...use at least 30%. I agree.

I want to see if this chemical supply place can whip up some 33%.

[Soapmaker Man]

Hi pooky8:wink2: I'm new to CT too. I've been soapin since last December though. Lots of great people and advice on this forum! Welcome to our world, the soap addiction! LOL If you have any questions, please ask away!

Paul......

The Soapmaker Man

A goat milk soapmaker!

---------------------------------

The 'Ole Goat Soaps & Lotions Co.

TOG Soapmaking Tools

[Scented]

I'm just saying hi! As much as I would prefer everything made for me, I would rather do it myself because it would be easier to figure out what went wrong (in my case, usually.)