CB135 and Post Burn Frost Ring

[Henryk]

I have switched to CB135. Experimented a bit and am now getting fantastic dark colors and zero wet spots (even after burning!) and NO frost!. Been nearly a week - so I think I'm safe - well, at least for the short term.

One problem (of course there has to be).

After burning (and it gets worse if you marathon burn) after the wax sets up, I have the usual white frost ring - which really sticks out with dark colors. Adding paraffin as an additive (5%) doesn't stop the ring (and btw did nothing for the crater look after it sets up).

So, if you have tried adding BW to CB135, does this stop that white ring from setting up in darker colors - if so, how much did you use, and finally, did the BW stop the crater look after the melt pool set up? (I know this works with my old soy/cottonseed blend - but I never tried it with CB135).

It won't be for a couple days until I get the chance to pour some more containers, so was thinking maybe someone has already been through this?

TIA

[gingerinarkansas]

I just made my first candles using soy...mixed 50/50 cb135 and j223. The frost ring your talking about...is that a white ring that goes all around the top of the candle. I had that on one of mine...kinda had a "foam" look, like on a beer. Are we talking about the same thing? Ginger

[Henryk]

Yes - thats what I mean - assuming you mean that it shows up only after the melt pool sets back up.

[silkysoycreations]

Not sure if this is just a soy thing but Cargill's C3 does it the worse (frosting ring after melt pool sets back up) out of 402, 444, and C1 from my experience. Henry, have you thought about tin cans or frosted glass? If I attempt pure soy again I think I'd have to try going this route.

[gingerinarkansas]

I hadn't burned mine yet. It looks kinda nice with a pastel pink color and white ring around the top but I don't think it's suppose to be there.LOL My candle also has NO hot throw. None,zip....nothing. I've waited 3 days to burn. It was 50/50 j223 and CB135. What have I done wrong? This was my first time to ever do soy and I don't think I did well. BCN Ginger Plum...1 oz.per #. Ginger

[Henryk]

Well, I like the fact that I'm getting no soot, no wetspots, and feel more comfortable wicking this product so I am going to stay with it.

I am going to try in this order:

1. BW (no one has tried ?)

2. Universal Soy Additive (don't have it yet)*.

3. Then if it doesn't work, stop coloring.

4. If it STILL looks bad just use it in tins or frosted glass and use paraffin in those glass containers I want dark colors.

*So, I thought I seen a lot of posts on "USA" - just found 1 or 2 on searching - what are people's thoughts on this stuff - was thinking about the stuff at http://www.rusticescentuals.com/wax.html . I thought there was a lot of threads on this but I couldn't really find too many last night.

TIA

Ginger - why not try it with just the CB135 or the 223 - if it works, then its the blending thats causing it. (I assume you are familiar with the FO you are using and that it does indeed throw well otherwise).

[Candlewitch]

Frosted glass is even worse in color frosting. Dont even think about it.

[Henryk]

Thanks - if I was going to do frosted glass I would do undyed or pale only. I'm seriously thinking if I continue with this that undyed in frosted would be the way to go anyway. Or tins - hides many "sins" !

Thanks again.

[Budgie]

Hi Henry. I use BW with the 135 and I still get a ring where I've burned it - though not all the time. I don't color my candles, but I do get a ring of darker color where there was a melt pool. The BW will stop the crater look with certain scents, but not all of them. In some scents it looks just as bad as it would without the BW. I've never used more than 2.5% BW otherwise I get cracks and hidden sink holes - but that's just my experience. HTH

[boggled]

Any pink looks as bad as dark or blue colors.

[Henryk]

Thanks for the reports - I'll try a few things and post back.

[KMommy]

I wish you good luck with this wax Henry. I had the same problems you mention here plus a major issue with wet spots. Washing and heating the containers, pouring at different temps....nothing improved. My main issue with this wax was that I never could get a decent scent throw. Slight throw after curing for a month. Good luck, if anyone will have success with it I am sure it will be you:) !

[Henryk]

Been good so far - except for that frost ring. I have some USA now so I plan on doing a lot of testing soon with it. I have found out to DRASTICALLY reduce the frosting is simply poor cool. I tried a few smaller containers and so increased my pour temp - instant frost. When adding BW AND pouring hot - even WORSE.

So, it looks like pouring cool is the key at least for me. Now what I have to do is pour a few with USA and see if it helps, I was going to check on BW with it, but the frost was too bad for me to even care to use them. If the USA works in this wax then I'd rather use that anyway and save the BW for BW candles.

I'll try to post some pics if possible.

[Henryk]

Always something.

The USA is working, but it seems to create wet spots more so than without it. The parasoys are leaving a thick film for me that cools too visible IMO unless I use hot flame-thrower wicks in my containers. The Eco CBA was the perfect wax for me - but I no longer can get it to adhere (even Doctor Al couldn't help!).

So after all this time, testing, research (and not to mention money), for what I want to achieve I either:

1. Use no dye for glass containers to minimize appearance of frost

2. Use paraffin for glass containers where I want color

3. Use tins with soy and USA when using dye

So that's where I'm leaving this - its been a fun couple of years. I guess I'll be doing the above 3 as necessary, but after all this frustration I've decided I need to concentrate on other candle types to give myself a break from this.

[Gretchen]

Henry, I think you like to tourture youself!

Gretchen

[Henryk]

I'd buy store-bought candles if I wanted to do that.

[Carriegsxr6]

HenryK

Is that the universal soy/vegetable modifier sold at Moonglowcandles and Candlesoylutions? It was an all natural modifier created by EL i blieve. I use it and love it. I use about 2tbl per pound of wax.

It looks like it might be carnauba wax

[Henryk]

I'm not sure who makes it, but the one I have is from http://www.rusticescentuals.com/wax.html . I may play with it more, and if I stay with soy wax, its probably going to be the one I use - it does make the wax look very smooth - I just have to work on the wet spots, but I do like the idea in the back of my head that its "all veg". (I know, thats wierd I guess).

What type of wax do use it in and does it have an effect on glass adhesion for you?

[Carriegsxr6]

I have used this in Calwax CB3 (poured at 135-140) and Cargill C-3 (poured at 150-155).

FO .7oz pp and 2-16 drops of dye pp (depending how dark i want)

Like I said before, I only use 2tbl of modifier per lb, and that to me is just enough to keep them frost free and smooth tops. I never get wet spots with the Calwax CB3 anyways and the addition of the modifier didnt change that (and the frosting never appears even after burning), but I always get wet spots with the Cargill C-3 but the modifier didnt seem to make it worse (and the frosting still always appears after burning).

[Henryk]

Glad its working well for you. Seems like it says what it does, but a bit of frost shows up post-burn. AFA the wetspots, perhaps I need to adjust pour temps. Thanks for the post.