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I am having trouble wicking 3" status jars with 70/30, so for the heck of it I switched to a different jar - same formula - big difference.

This is one type I'm working with now - and I am having a MUCH easier time with this one - or at least I think I will - its obviously far from complete. This has been 1 time at 3 hours and now you see it on its second burn of just 2 hours. I was worried on the first burn, but boy is it catching up on the second burn. I actually hope it doesn't burn any hotter.

I can't say for sure, but I'm cautiously optimistic this is actually going to be easier to wick that my straight sided jar - and this one is a hair over 3" at the smallest point. The big difference is that this jar is THINNER than my other one even though its the same diameter (mostly). Even though there is still some a very bit of a shell, I would never be this close to the glass with the melt pool after this short of time with my other jar - and I have tested many of them, multiple FOs, different wicks, unscented, etc. The wick is nothing unusual - a 24LX - the FO is a bakery lemon type. Mushroom is not that bad either.

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Awesome jar Henry!! Where did you pick those up at? I've been on the look out local for them because I don't want to pay shipping and status was actually my second choice. We seem to be drawn to the comtempory lines eh?! Is that jar lidless...I can't remember now? Keep me posted on the test...actually find it interesting u could still stay with the lx24 and not have to wick up. Also I'm looking for some lx wicks that are not dipped in parraffin (heat gun melts the wax right on off!)...do you know where I could get some dipped in something natural? TIA!

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Awesome jar Henry!! Where did you pick those up at? I've been on the look out local for them because I don't want to pay shipping and status was actually my second choice. We seem to be drawn to the comtempory lines eh?! Is that jar lidless...I can't remember now? Keep me posted on the test...actually find it interesting u could still stay with the lx24 and not have to wick up. Also I'm looking for some lx wicks that are not dipped in parraffin (heat gun melts the wax right on off!)...do you know where I could get some dipped in something natural? TIA!

I think Early American has these jars, if I'm not mistaken. I'm too lazy to go look it up on their site right now and check, lol. If they don't carry them, I'd love to know where to get them too. That is a beautiful jar. I'm not into the country/prim look either.

I hope your next burns go well Henry - keep us posted. Love seeing the pics too :D

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These are from Early American. Their website doesn't do them justice IMO - they have sooooo much more stuff than their site shows, and they are a distributor for Libbey - they have tons of different types. I'm pretty sure they do Anchor also.

Yes they do have lids - I think Libbey only makes 4 or 5 sizes and they are interchangeable with a lot of the jars. They may look the same, but there are different ones that are flat - but have like a slightly domed top, they have ones that are beveled, then they have the standard rounded-on-the-edge types - which is what these are. The beveled ones are nice too - they are angled instead of rounded like the ones in the pics here.

Here is a pic after the second burn so you can tell that the side is already melting away from the glass. (Ignore the perspective - its really bad as my digital camera is old and when you get close it makes things look like they are in one of those amusement park mirrors that make you look really fat or tall, etc!) I always have this issue with the para soys lately - if I wick up to get a huge melt pool - then the glass gets too hot IMO. So, I've been doing it like one size down - its gets a melt pool in the middle pretty good - but the sides (hopefully) follow down after the flame IYKWIM.

Regarding the wicks, the melting point of BW is ~ 145F - give or take. So, if the wicks are primed in high melt point paraffin - that should be even better. I know what you mean about the heat gun - you just have to aim it away and go back and forth far enough from the wick to not get that coating to melt off and spoil the top. I had that same problem before I was more careful - it takes more time - but will work.

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Oh - when you heat gun them - point the gun in the direction of the wick - but above it and "beyond" it - towards the wax beyond the wick and toward the glass - but don't get it too hot. I have a Black and Decker one that has a variable heat control knob and its great - you can set it to just the right temperature. ( http://www.blackanddecker.com/ProductGuide/Product-Details.aspx?ProductID=5551 )

I've seen some crappy reviews on Amazon - but I've had mine for 2 years now and used it for all types of stuff (and dropped it at least a dozen times) and have no issues.

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These are from Early American. Their website doesn't do them justice IMO - they have sooooo much more stuff than their site shows, and they are a distributor for Libbey - they have tons of different types. I'm pretty sure they do Anchor also.

Yes they do have lids - I think Libbey only makes 4 or 5 sizes and they are interchangeable with a lot of the jars. They may look the same, but there are different ones that are flat - but have like a slightly domed top, they have ones that are beveled, then they have the standard rounded-on-the-edge types - which is what these are. The beveled ones are nice too - they are angled instead of rounded like the ones in the pics here.

Hey HEnry- cool jars!! Can you post their link for me, please :D....it would not load for me.

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Horrid results up to this point. Unless I babysit it, the flame gets way too high, starts flickering and throws soot on the side of the jar. I'm not even going to bother burning it anymore. Plus, by the third burn I see its not going to get the wax on the sides and the first looked so hopeful. I'm going back one more time to trying other wicks in the wax, but at this point I have yet to be able to wick this wax in a 3" container to my liking.

This soot is ticking me off. I've not had this problem any regular soys (I just don't buy the white soot argument - black soot if wicked too hot, but not white). I'll keep trying, but at this point, for 3" containers, unless I go back to CBA, I'm really considering a paraffin for them. I just haven't been able to get the few suggested wicks to work for me.

:(

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Good to know Henry...have you taken any pictures of it? Are you thinking where the middle is narrower it's causing the soot (wick being too large for that portion of the jar)? You were using lx24 correct? Bummed to hear about the results...this jar is sexy, hehe. I still love my status jar but just wish it came in something larger than 12oz.

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Do you know I hated looking at the soot so bad that I wiped it off because I was going to rewick it somehow - I'll burn it again and take a pic - also, I am still getting hangup - and I can't wick up to take care of that because I believe that would make the soot worse because the flame would be even higher according to the LX chart. I would have to move to a different wick - hot, but without the flame height IMO.

Its not the jar alone (its not at the middle point yet) - its the jar/wax/wick/fo combination. However, I want to be able to single wick a 3" perfectly - the last time I was able to do that was a soy/cottonseed blend or the CBA. I gave up the soy because of the frost, I gave up the CBA because of the adhesion. The other issue is that none of my jars have a neck - that keeps heat in. From memory - and somewhere there is a pic posted - I was able to go down a size (LX28) in smooth mason jars because of the heat that stayed in the jar - when I went to the same diameter with no neck (a standard tumbler) I needed to use an LX30.

I'm watching this post at http://www.greenleafcandlesupply.com/invboard/index.php?showtopic=1348 because its a 4" jar with a 3.25" opening. However at this point I'm not going to be buying new jars, but I'm curious as to how her testing goes - if it goes well, it has to be because of the jar - as I've tried same size of CDs and ECOs and it didn't work for me in 3" status jars. (Well, the CD probably would have worked - but one side of the jar was pretty hot).

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Henry- I've been testing the GL 70/30 for quite some time and am finding I am needing to wick down quite a bit from what others have been using- I'm testing in thick glass tumbers (2 inch diameter) and have found LX14 to work pretty well and have even gone down to an LX12 on lighter scents. I started out with the LX18 and 20 because of what others found were working for them but the jar got way too hot the further down it burned. I do get some hangup but it always manages to catch up. I'm still testing different wicks. I'm using an HTP52 in a Celtic Moonspice (an oil that is on the heavier side) tester and am getting great results with that though I have only burned down about half way. Is the LX24 the only wick you've tried in this jar so far? I would suggest going down a size or two.

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I know it's a 3" container at one point in it's shape but have you considered double wicking? Then again maybe the shape of this container will not burn good or safe doubled wicked.

I have found (sometimes) when a container soots that double wicking with smaller wicks will elimanate the soot problem and still a great burn.

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Thanks CandleMan, I just like that "Zen" look of single wicks

:)

The thing too is that a 3" container is just at that spot where it may be too big to single wick properly, and too small to double wick properly.

Shannon, with a 2" tumbler I guess an LX 14 would do good as I have found that an LX 18 or 20 does good many times in a 2.5" diameter (see http://www.candletech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23172&page=3#22 ), so I figured a 24 may do OK in a 3". I probably have just enough wax left to make a couple more of these so I will try a 22 and a 21 with the same formula as the 24.

You can see in the pic - just not a good burn for me. The 3 out of 4 sides never caught up and now to add insult to injury I got this sooting thing going on. Thanks for trying to help guys.

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For the most part I've decided on lx24 for c3/status jar I burned one clean down to the metal tab which was great but I did notice it was really hot, big mushroom & some dancing on the flame towards the end. I tried the lx22 but the initial FMP was around 4-5hrs. (don't have notes in front of me)...probably a better wick size towards the end. I'm testing out some other wicks currently for this jar to see if there is anything better than using lx24. RRD 37 & 40 seems to be working out...I got them mixed up so retesting again, grrr.

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Well, I have the new ones poured already. So tomorrow evening I will burn them.

Shannon - that's great that you can do a 14 in a 2.5" container - jeez - where have I been - I've never tried one that size in that diameter.

Silk - I used to do that too - what you need to do is mark the container as soon as you wick it. Use a "dry erase" marker - it will also work on glass - I do the bottoms because it will come right off (which is what you want - you don't want anything permanent). Don't do the lids in case they get switched. http://www.expomarkers.com

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Well, I tried both a 20 and 22 LX. Nothing to brag about. The 20 was better, but too similar to the 22 in results. No reason to post pics as I'm done with all this.

I went full circle now and am just going to use CB135 for any soy candles I do since its a decent soy wax and is available at many places I also buy other supplies from. For the larger jars I'm going to try some paraffins.

Too hot right now to care much ! :)

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