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Help with decal paper


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Does anyone do good with this? I get it on a candle nice but after it dries, it gets tiny little bubbles and no matter what i do it still shows these. Anyone have any advice. i could sure use it. Thanks Lin

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Sharyl i think im about to give up to. I did 75 anniversary candles and when i went to pack them up these darn little bubbles showed and i had to redo every darn candle with something different. Kerri, i bought the ink jet decal paper from decal paper.com and it says its good for candles and soap. I did rub gently with a soft cloth but it still bubbled on me. The only thing i didnt do was spray after putting on the candle so ill try that before i give up to. Its to bad cause the decals look so nice on the candle. Lin

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The only time I was able to get the decal paper to work was when I put it on a candle I purchased from Wal-Mart. I could never get it to work on my candles. I gave up and gave the decal paper to my husband and son to use on their model railroad.

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It takes a lot of work and practice to get the decal paper to work. I always print out an extra in case I mess up. What I usually do is dip the decal in the water for only a few seconds (about 5-8) just long enough to get it to peel off the paper. After I place the decal on the candle, I use a soft towel (dish towels work) to dab it dry, then I put the towel over my index finger and smooth out any wrinkles or bubbles. I spray them with clear acrylic after they dry. So far so good with this technique. I noticed the white paper is a little easier to smooth out than the clear. HTH some.

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To get decals to work properly, you need a decal setting solution. You can get it at any good hobby shop that sells to model railroaders. There are a number of good ones and they all work about the same. After you wet and place the decal, take a small brush and brush on the decal set before the decal dries, especially around the edges. Capillary action will suck it under the film. This stuff works fast, and will wilt a decal if you work it too long. I've ruined a few in my time. In the case of a really big decal, you can soak the decal in it after the paper is removed, but then you REALLY have to work fast. the secret is to put it on, get the decal wher you want it & LET IT ALONE TILL IT DRIES. After the decal sets up, if there are any wet spots or air bubbles, you can poke them with a needle or pin, and paint on the decal set. It will flow into the air hole & snug it down. Let it dry again & the spots will disappear. JUST A NOTE: If the candle has a shiny surface to start with, you may want to use a dull spray first, then apply the decal. That helps to hide the shine.

Then you can spray a clear coat over it, and it is permanent.

This may sound complicated, but if I can do it, you can do it.

Fredron

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I'm not sure Michaels will sell decal set. They may. What you're looking for is a good model railroad/model airplane hobby shop. They will sell Testors Paints or Champ decals and will have the setting solution.

A couple sources just in case you don't live near a hobby shop are:

Wm. K Walthers Co (Chicago)

America's Hobby Center (NYC)

Both of these will ship on line.

Fredron

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Hi Folks

We had the same problem with bubbles and it was caused by the mold release, that silicone spray sure is slippery. The cure we use is to polish the surface where the decal is going with a pair of tights, this scratches the surface slightly and helps the adhesive to stick to the candle. Also with the material we use here in europe (lazertrans) you apply as normal with water and before the decal is dry we paint on some methalated spirits, this helps the decal to stick better.

Conor

It's not raining in Ireland :yay:

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