ellajoan Posted May 31, 2017 Share Posted May 31, 2017 More help requested on wicking the 8 oz straight sided w/ 464, no fragrance oil. From L to R, Premier 750 (first 3 hour burn), CD 10 (first 3 hour burn) and HTP 73 (has been burned for 15 hours). Any advice or guidance? I am feeling pretty good about the 750 at this point, but we shall see. I am so appreciating all of the help! TIA! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted May 31, 2017 Share Posted May 31, 2017 How long did they cure before lighting? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ellajoan Posted May 31, 2017 Author Share Posted May 31, 2017 14 minutes ago, TallTayl said: How long did they cure before lighting? About 2.5 days. They don't have any FO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted May 31, 2017 Share Posted May 31, 2017 13 minutes ago, ellajoan said: About 2.5 days. They don't have any FO. FO or not, the cure makes a difference in the burn with soy. Even in my 8 oz tins the wicks burn slightly differently enough between 2 days and 7 ? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ellajoan Posted May 31, 2017 Author Share Posted May 31, 2017 Any advice on how the wicks, flame, melt pool like? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted May 31, 2017 Share Posted May 31, 2017 The top picture is strange. From those it looks like the Mp is pretty deep on the two new ones, especially the 750. Could be that they are still pretty freshly made for soy (burning easily and quickly). The second photo looks very different, as if the MP did not reach the edge, or at least on one side I can't tell. All in all, It is too early to tell on both. I'd Continue to burn these, and make an identical set to cure a week (better yet more) to really get the right sense of the wicking. Like I said earlier, soy benefits from a cure even if no FO. I have realized a difference of one to two wick sizes in the same candles between 2 days and 2 weeks. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ellajoan Posted May 31, 2017 Author Share Posted May 31, 2017 Thanks so much, TallTayl. I have searched many previous posts on here for how long straight 464 (no FO) needs to cure, and Old Glory had said 2-3 days. I have gleaned a lot of wisdom from both hers and your posts. I will try to patient and wait longer for the 464 to cure. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ellajoan Posted May 31, 2017 Author Share Posted May 31, 2017 (edited) 45 minutes ago, TallTayl said: The top picture is strange. From those it looks like the Mp is pretty deep on the two new ones, especially the 750. Could be that they are still pretty freshly made for soy (burning easily and quickly). The second photo looks very different, as if the MP did not reach the edge, or at least on one side I can't tell. All in all, It is too early to tell on both. I'd Continue to burn these, and make an identical set to cure a week (better yet more) to really get the right sense of the wicking. Like I said earlier, soy benefits from a cure even if no FO. I have realized a difference of one to two wick sizes in the same candles between 2 days and 2 weeks. It's not a great photo--bad lighting. You see the reflection of the jar and you can't really tell where the melt pools are. Actually, the melt pools were even to the edges and probably about 1/8 inch deep on the 750 and maybe 1/6 inch deep on the CD 10. This is a MUCH better test than my first CD 12 and CD 14 which were ridiculously overwicked. But now wondering if it's all for naught, if I should have cured the soy longer. Edited June 1, 2017 by ellajoan 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bfroberts Posted June 1, 2017 Share Posted June 1, 2017 I'm using that same jar this year, and it packs a lot of heat when the candle gets low. I always shoot for some hang up during the first half. Otherwise, once you get down to the last half, the jar is a scorcher in less than an hour's burn time. I use 6006 (parasoy) and when I tested CD8, it was too much with all but my hardest to burn FO (Cinnamon Broom). 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted June 1, 2017 Share Posted June 1, 2017 @ellajoan. Nothing is for naught You will learn a LOT of great info on these tests. (said by someone who has made and tested several dozen variations of the same exact wax in the mast month...) Burn it again tomorrow, and the next and take good pics and notes. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ellajoan Posted June 1, 2017 Author Share Posted June 1, 2017 31 minutes ago, bfroberts said: I'm using that same jar this year, and it packs a lot of heat when the candle gets low. I always shoot for some hang up during the first half. Otherwise, once you get down to the last half, the jar is a scorcher in less than an hour's burn time. I use 6006 (parasoy) and when I tested CD8, it was too much with all but my hardest to burn FO (Cinnamon Broom). Yes. My CD wick tests have been burning too hot. I think the CD 10 is also overwicked. Does Parasoy burn hotter than soy, or vice versa? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted June 1, 2017 Share Posted June 1, 2017 51 minutes ago, ellajoan said: Yes. My CD wick tests have been burning too hot. I think the CD 10 is also overwicked. Does Parasoy burn hotter than soy, or vice versa? Parasoy can burn "hotter", but a lot depends on the paraffin and soy used, and in what proportions. Paraffin blends are all over the board for melt points and viscosity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moonshine Posted June 1, 2017 Share Posted June 1, 2017 (edited) I agree with TT- I have only used 3 parasoy blends but my experience has been all over the board - a parasoy with 70/30 paraffin/soy took a smaller wick for me as opposed to 70/30 soy/paraffin In "general" I do feel Soy needs a hotter wick than paraffin but I guess never having tried straight paraffin I don't know that for sure ?♀️ With straight 464 in that jar no paraffin I would think the CD10 would be a good match but if the wax is too soft and not set it will burn too hot - try it after a 5-7 day cure and see if you notice a difference and if it's too hot go down to a CD8 or try the CDN10- my experience is the CDN burns a touch cooler in straight soy than the CD - same wick different coating Edited June 1, 2017 by moonshine 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coconut Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 Just curious, why no FO? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ellajoan Posted June 7, 2017 Author Share Posted June 7, 2017 Because I am simply testing wicks in plain wax. Once I find one I like, then I'll retest different sizes of that brand w/ FO. It was a suggestion from Old Glory, I believe. I can also reuse the wax to test other wicks if I want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coconut Posted June 8, 2017 Share Posted June 8, 2017 7 hours ago, ellajoan said: Because I am simply testing wicks in plain wax. Once I find one I like, then I'll retest different sizes of that brand w/ FO. It was a suggestion from Old Glory, I believe. I can also reuse the wax to test other wicks if I want. I see. I used 4630 paraffin, not a soy mor parasoy. Really liked Premier wicks. I also used htp wicks, lx and Peaks cotton. I tested almost every wick made for containers, I think! If you use Peak's FO, which is excellent, Mango Papaya is a great one for establishing a base wick. I used htp 52 in a 2.4 " jar but I think you wick up with soy. Looking at your pics, I think the Premier will be too hot at the bottom of the jar. I liked those for heavier FOs. CD and htp are similar wicks made in different countries and they both look good to me in your pics. The hangup will catch up. Good luck and let us know how it goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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