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Poured my 1st soy test candles !!


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I poured my first soy test candles today. I am using EcoSoya Advanced in an 8oz Libby glass jar. The fragrance is CS's Apple Harvest. It looks like it might need another

pour as there is a dip in the middle after cooling. I poked the holes, inserted the wicks

that I'm testing and hit it with a heat gun. Maybe that might take care of the dip. I'm not

using any color.

Now to have the patience to wait and let them cure. This I'm not very good at! I'm going to let them sit for 2 weeks before I burn them. I'll post back later.

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  • 2 weeks later...

post-10445-13945850627_thumb.jpg

i managed to wait 2 weeks! here are pic's after a 4 hour burn.

the flame did a little bit of dancing after i lit the candle and the flame

seemed a little high. after the 1st hour it had burned all the way to the edge.

no soot and the burn pool was about 1/8th" deep. the 2nd hour the burn pool was about

1/4th" deep. guess-ti-mating...no ruler handy. there was never any soot, and no mushrooming on the wick.

i used a 10% fo load, in an 8oz libby jar, with a lx16 wick.the ht was just ok. maybe a longer cure, or smaller wick?

any advice is greatly appreciated.

post-10445-139458506262_thumb.jpg

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  • 4 weeks later...

after 3 more weeks (and i know that's not very long) for testing wicks in the above candles, and others that

i poured of different fo's, and not getting any hot throw what so ever, and reading more and more on this forum.....

i'm going to give up on ecosoya cb.

i ordered 464 from cs. i've read so much the past week, that i don't remember who said it, but i'm going to take the

advise that they gave someone else on this board.....forget about fo's for now and just test wax and wicks.

2 nights ago i melted my 464 wax and heated to 185, and took it off the heat to solidify back up to temper it. i've

just re-melted and poured it. i also ordered a sampling of performa wicks, read a lot of favorable posts about them.

when i light them up for the test, i'll start a new post.

i do have one question....do i still need to cure the unscented wax for about 2 weeks, or is that just if it's scented?

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I wouldn't bother testing without FO. Every thing changes when you add it. Just try with this wax what you tried with the other and see if it has a better throw. I thought the first picture you posted looked pretty good, Maybe a little deep for a melt pool. For a 4" across jar it should take 4 hrs to make it to the edge then start going down. Some waxes don't burn that way but soy usually does. But no soot or mushroom is a good thing. Good luck.

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I'm one of the people who like to test waxes first with no color and no fragrance. I think it gives you a start point when you see that "X" wax doesn't work with "X" wick with nothing added to it. You can then focus on the wicks that work with "X" wax and narrow the type down faster without wasting the most expensive part of candle testing after shipping, fragrance. Also, then you can melt down the leftover wax from the jars and then start again with color and fragrance, so less is wasted.

That way, when you do add color and fragrance, you know that wick worked without either, so it MUST be the addition of the fragrance/color that made the wick not work.

So far this system has worked with me.

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I'm one of the people who like to test waxes first with no color and no fragrance. I think it gives you a start point when you see that "X" wax doesn't work with "X" wick with nothing added to it. You can then focus on the wicks that work with "X" wax and narrow the type down faster without wasting the most expensive part of candle testing after shipping, fragrance. Also, then you can melt down the leftover wax from the jars and then start again with color and fragrance, so less is wasted.

That way, when you do add color and fragrance, you know that wick worked without either, so it MUST be the addition of the fragrance/color that made the wick not work.

So far this system has worked with me.

i think this makes the best sense for me. i'm not going to color, so i would only have the fo's to work out.

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i think this makes the best sense for me. i'm not going to color, so i would only have the fo's to work out.

Another reason that I like to test without fragrance is that you can set out 12 test jars/pillars etc on a big table and test all at the same time. You really appreciate the difference in the wicks when you see them all burning side by side.

If you have fragrance in the wax, then you can only burn one at a time to get the best sense of the fragrance throw, so if you have four wicks to test with one fragrance, you can really only burn one at a time.

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Another reason that I like to test without fragrance is that you can set out 12 test jars/pillars etc on a big table and test all at the same time. You really appreciate the difference in the wicks when you see them all burning side by side.

great idea!! when the performa wicks arrive i'll put compare them with the eco's and cd's.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Just wondering does tempering the 464 help with ht or does it help more with the cosmetics ie smooth tops and frosting?

Cosmetics from what I understand but it has never helped me any. I pour at 165 and always get smooth tops, it's the frosting that I can't get rid of.

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