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lmc

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Posts posted by lmc

  1. PB is for making pillars and would not do well for container candles. If you want to try blending waxes try with a container paraffin such as 4630. Start with 15% and go from there. C3 really does benefit from curing...2 days isn't long enough to get a true sense of it's ht capability. I've found curing for 1-2 weeks produces a great throwing candle. Imo, you should get to know the wax well before moving on to blending...could save you a few headaches.

  2. I've worked with C3 for several years and will give you a few suggestions to try. What works for one usually does not work for another lol!

    I temper C3 to help wax look smooth throughout its burn...you can find some great threads on tempering here. After I temper, I heat wax back up to 185*, add dye, add fo...stir for 2 minutes...pour when a slight film develops on top, about 120*. I do not preheat my jars but on occassion I do have to do a repour or use a heat gun to fill in any sink holes. Play with pour temp to greatly minimize the chance of sinkholes. In C3, for me, I prefer to use 8.5% fo load...anything above that and you run into seepage and wicking issues and 6% just doesn't do it for me for ht., let cure for 1-2 weeks.

    I use Premier and CDNs for wicking...they wok well with C3. Call Wick It (1-866-3WICKIT) and they will send you a generous amount of Premiers to try for free...think there's a $5 charge for shipping. If you like them, you can purchase Premiers through Aztec or Fillmore. HTH

  3. Sounds like frosting which is a normal characteristic of soy. You can try tempering the wax and/or adding up to 1 tbs pp of USA (universal soy additive) to help control the frosting or if you don't like the look of it, go dye free. Many choose not to dye their candles...imo, it gives an upscale look to them.

    With the 415 you also may want to try pouring cooler...at the slushy stage. HTH

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