JanetsCandles

I do. Most of mine is wholesaling, and I want a store badly, but just can't see paying over $1000 per month for it quite yet. Hubby has a decent income as well, so it isn't a huge concern for me right now, but I'm working on expanding as much as possible.

Most of the time, yes. Weirdly enough, my dad couldn't smell the rancid smell from oils. He might have been a weird case, but I dunno. (This was discovered over an argument about rancid peanut butter... ewww)

Doesn't sound like it's rancid. Rancid oil smells horrible.

Sounds like it's discoloring to me, but could be wrong. No weird smell?

Ditto that.

..... ....... ......... If your question is "Do I need to test" (in any form or fashion, or any language, or any concept of the idea in the first place) THE ANSWER IS FRIGGING YES! Further, if you think that the size means you don't have to test, you're in the WRONG business. A candle the size of an ant would need to be tested. Why, class? BECAUSE IT'S A CANDLE! As for the rest of it? Glowworm pretty well covered my opinions on it. You'd do well to pay attention to what is being said and apply it accordingly. If you don't, well, don't expect to be answered.

I do have some flare issues too, but I'm thinking it has to do with how the air gets trapped during recrystalization of the wax after it cools. I end up trimming just after the melt pool starts (extinguishing the wick, then trimming and relighting) and it doesn't have much trouble. I've got it on the warning label to trim to between 1/8 and 1/4 inch for those jars. And it happens with all the glass glow wax, so it's just something really weird going on with the wax, I think.

I do get the feel that it's hotter, yes. Fortunately the jar itself seems to handle it decently. The jars are warm to pick up, but they still do alright if I'm using the HTP wicks in my palm. I also do sacrifice a "full" melt pool at the first burn to get it at the second burn. Testing those at first were so frustrating. But it did melt all the way at the second burn, and power burning doesn't soot or drown, either. A couple of my FOs, the flame does get pretty small, but never fully goes out on a power burn, at least until it's supposed to. Goes to show why we burn more than just the once on a tester.

Just did another set tonight, this one green. Two more colors to go! Whee! I love the look of these, but oi they seem to take forever to make LOL. Tonight it didn't help that my hot plate decided to give up on me tonight. Luckily the other burner still worked, but I almost had to pull out the heat gun to keep it going!

I like the status jars for palm wax, but haven't had success with Comfort Blend paraffin on it. Think I'm having the same trouble as you, Beth. But comfort blend wicks beautifully in my oval hex jars. Weird. Anyway, Lauren, I understand the frustration. I'm actually going to suggest that you contact one of your local suppliers (I use Lonestar for some of my stuff. They are in the Dallas/Ft. Worth area, and are excellent in the help department at times.) I would ask if they are planning to have a class at any point in the near future, or if they have someone you can ask pointed questions about the making of candles to. If you're already a customer, even better (from their point of view). Now. All that said, you mentioned that you aren't trying to double wick the status jar because the width doesn't justify it. I'm going to suggest a couple options for you. First, try taking one of the candles you've made and heat it with a jar warmer (you probably already know what I'm talking about with this, but if you don't, I'm meaning the flat heaters you can get with some tart melters.) If you still have no throw, check your percentage of FO in the wax. Are you using too much? Too little? If it doesn't change with that, you may have to switch your wax type to a completely different wax. It may be a situation like Beth mentioned that the scent isn't getting warmed enough because of the design of the candle. Like I said, I can get a good throw from Palm Wax, but not paraffin out of those jars. To test that theory, go to Hobby Lobby or some such and get a similar sized jar, but one with a neck, and test your current wax blend, again on the warmer. If you can get a throw like that, you may have to switch jars. Either way, hope you get something working soon, and don't give up!

Another question, and this one is important, Adam. How long after the candle was poured did you start burning it? Was there any warmth left to the jar before you started burning it? As a thought, have you considered doing wickless jars and melters? You'll still need to test, but it's not as frustrating as making sure the burn is doing well.

For me, it's very rare that I just ship a glass jar. If you do them singly, wrap in a couple layers of bubble wrap or good and thick with foam, then a minimum of 1 inch on bottom and at least 2 inches on each side. If you're doing multiples, get one of the "egg crate" type boxes (they have the dividers), or make your own, and still pack with crush areas in mind. And make sure your boxes are sturdy. I've seen some really crappy boxes used in shipping, and they don't survive well.

Somewhere between 2 and 3 hours, usually. I'm doing it a bit quicker out in the garage than I did here in the kitchen. But then, in the kitchen, the dipping vat is so tall that I had to use a step stool to reach. The pictures were taken almost 2 hours apart. Had to go look the times up from FB where I uploaded them.

Close to 100, but it depends on the temp of the wax, too, it seems. Doesn't vary a whole lot though. I can do 32 pair at a time.

Is exhausting, but so worth it. I remember someone had posted about dipping tapers a week or two ago. Thought I'd show pictures of my system. We made the racks and the "turnstile" that I use for dipping. The bigger ones are obviously "finished" tapers (before I cut them off the racks and finish cooling them). I'll be fluting them before I deliver them. I've got 3 other colors to do as well.

I had some candles break to California, so what I've started doing is wrapping the ones that are more fragile (think stuff like taper candles, things like that) in little paper bags, usually in pairs or sets, depending on how big they are. Glassware has the same type thing, but it's foam wrapped first, then paper bagged, then put in a box with packing peanuts surrounding it and not movable when it's shaken. Might be overkill, but I've yet to have anything break since using those methods. Also, I don't put fragile on mine.

Depending on what you are looking for, I might be able to help. You could private message me with details if you like.

Gorgeous! And yes, you can get soap without having the heat (gel phase). I do it quite often. Heck, some folks put their wet soap in the freezer or fridge.

Those are absolutely gorgeous, Kelly! Love all of them! Are you using standard cosmetic glitter on the tops?

Oh, that's an awesome thought! I didn't even see that. I'd seen reviews that it would do that, so went ahead and used the Vanilla Stabilizer stuff in it. So far, so good. And it won't hurt it to darken up a little. There isn't a whole lot of the Sweet Pumpkin Spice in the blend.

I got them cut and put over on the gallery page. They're my Punkin Chunkin Apple Spice bars.

LOL! At least I know I'm not the only one to do that. DH gives me odd looks when I say things like that out loud. I'm making my list up. See a few I don't have yet, like Amish Harvest. There are a few others I see too, but gonna have to write it all down so I don't forget. Thanks so much for the comments so far! I'm looking forward to this. And of course, there will probably be a full report when I get back too.

Fresh out of the mold and cut today. Scent is a blend of Sweet Pumpkin Spice, Mac. Apple, and Orange Clove. Colorants are Pumpkin, Parsley (it gives little green flecks in the white swirl), Kaolin Clay, and Activated Charcoal. I like it!

I thought Cornucopia wasn't skin safe?

Didn't overheat this time! Woot! (Now for patience on waiting until it warms up decently to cut it...)