CandleAddict_RN

OK, So I haven't posted in some time. I had actually taken some time off from trying & testing candles due to wicking frustrations and started making some tarts to at least enjoy the FO :smiley2: Anyway I started back on the candles and thought I was getting close to a decent burn but they all seem to be tunneling somewhat. They started to catch up a little but after several burns with only about an inch left there is still about 1/8-1/4" on sides 1/2-3/4" above the melt pool. So heres what I have: Libby Status 12oz, 3"D Wax 6006 Harvest FO- BC 7% UV 1/2tsp. PPW Dye - Liquid- Honey Vanilla 3gtts Wicks - HTP 83, 93, & ECO 6 No problems with HT! They all smell AWESOME! The jars were warm to the touch with HTP, a little hotter with the ECO. Small or no mushroom with different burns with HTP. More on ECO along with soot on the ECO. The wax on sides also seems to be more on one side with all of them and I've checked & rechecked the wicks and all seem to be dead center. My other tester was with Pear Spice- peaks with an HTP 73 with a little better results. Less hangup. Pictures Below. I have tried CD 10 in a different FO and it seemed to be to hot with a flickering flame & soot. Would a CD 8 really work in 3"D?? My next try was going to be a HTP 104. Or do you think that would be to big also:confused: Suggestions?? I have a wide variety of wicks in CD, LX, Sample HTP & ECO, I think even a sample of RRDs. So far I'm leaning toward the HTP as those are the ones I've had the most steady flame & no visible soot :smiley2: But willing to try anything!

Lone Star in Texas sells status jars and you can choose between the metal or glass lids.

Thanks for your great info! That will really help with my next play day I do heat the palm to about 195-200, add dye & FO & pour into warm jars. I don't think that the jar that the tab pulled away was clean enough on the bottom for the stickum to stick properly and also had a tad of permatex stuck from a prior test burn. Still trying to figure out how to do the whole permatex thing. If I adhere my wicks with permatex it seems to take a while to dry and then the wicks get soft and don't stay taut when I prewarm my jars in the oven:confused: ........Sorry Pristine........ Didn't mean to highjack your thread. But thought it was along the same line

Yep, Clarus is in Dallas and they are the ones that sold to Greenleaf. I had emailed them a while back and it was Brad that responded. I don't know where you live but he said you could pick up from the warehouse. Not sure if they ship out to just suppliers or not. The minimum you can get is a case or up to 2000lbs I don't use that wax but was given a slab that came from Greenleaf........ just haven't played with it yet. I heard it's pretty good though. Tennessee Candle supply also carries the 70/30 blend that I think someone else on this forum uses. HTH

I think they both look awesome!! I like the rustic look too!

I have only made a few glasglow palm wax containers. I read that they need to cool VERY slowly so I had either cooled them under a box or in the oven that had previously been warmed. So my question is, do you still cool them in that manner even when flipping them? And how long do you leave them upside down? Fro the rest of the cooling process? or just a few minutes? The 2nd time I made a couple I did flip them and on my 12oz status jar it almost looks like there is a 1/8 to 1/4 inch gap between the bottom of the jar and the hardened wax. It even looks like it pulled the wick tab with the stickum away from the bottom. They already looked pretty hard when I flipped it so I don't know how that happened. It was quite weird!

I am currently testing 4794/4630 at 75%/25% and have had awesome CT & HT on most FO. The one problem I had was that I couldn't get the wax out of the clamshells easily. I had to actually put them in the freezer and then work pretty hard at getting them out..... Right now I'm attributing it to possibly pouring hotter then I should have and it adhered to plastic. I sure didn't have any wet spots though.

Ravens - Your system seems a lot simpler than what I came up with on a tester sheet. So do you actually have your testers test for 24 hours? I turn mine off at night and restart in the morning....... mostly because my paranoid hubby tells me I'm going to cause a fire Always - I have already learned about TOO STRONG! I had a mulberry going from BCS, which is one of my favorite and it practically burned my nostrils the first couple days it was so strong. I used 7%ppw in all the scents that I made but that one can definitely be cut back to maybe even 5%ppw.

Well, I sat here for about 30 minutes or more trying to figure out how to attach the tester sheets I have as an attachment instead of copy & pasting:confused: So I will email it to those who want it. The candle sheet I think I got off The Candle Cauldron and tweaked it a bit. I then took that and adjusted it to work for tarts/clamshell testing. Mind you, this is what I would give to testers.

I have never used them yet but maybe I'll have to take a trip over there this week to see what kind of cheap goodies I can get since they are only about 30-40 minutes from me. Might be nice if they were relocating even closer to me

I did find a couple different testing questionnaire sheets a while back somewhere. But for the life of me I can't remember where, but they were specific to candles which I am also working on. It was a slow night at work in Labor & Delivery last night so I tried to make up my own for tarts/clamshells. I basically took what I had for candles and deleted what didn't apply to tarts. I'm seeing cross-eyed right now after being up all night but I will try and figure out how to post them or I can try to pm them to you and/or email them if that won't work for me. I'd like to post them. That way others can chime in on what could/should be added.

I have been making and testing tarts & clamshells and was wondering, when you have someone else testing for scent throw & length that they last, do you have a simple testing question sheet you give them? If so, what do you include on it besides the length it lasted and how strong the throw was? Any suggestion would be much appreciated:cheesy2: I haven't found anything already made up besides a candle testing sheet.

I have used plain 4794 for tarts and a blend of 4794/4630 and I have to put the bowl of the warmer in the freezer for a few minutes for them to pop out.

I haven't tried anyone else's clean cotton yet other than LoneStar's. And although I haven't cared for to many of their FO, the clean cotton has thrown well for me in 6006.

I use IG 6006 also. I love the creamy appearance of this wax. :)I am testing 12oz Status jars 3" with CD 10 & 12. Have BCS mulberry burning now Love that scent! My problem is that I keep getting soot after the first couple burns. At first I thought it was just with the 12's but I'm finding it with the 10's also. I use 6-7%FO and color most of them. I then thought it could be due to some of the dark colors but I'm testing Amber Romance with no color and still getting soot on both the CD 10 &12. tempted to try HTP's. Any suggestions??

Their Mulberry is my ultimate favorite! Super Strong!!

That really stinks!! Hope you can find something that will work!

I would probably give them a call though just to be sure it will fit before ordering.

To bad this thread wasn't here before. I was just at LoneStar yesterday. I could have check it out. I'm using the 12oz status jar and got some of the silver lids to go with it....... Actually I just looked on there site and the 12oz status and the 11oz tumbler shows the exact same width

I have one of those digital probe thermometers that was given to me and l like to use it in the presto pot but my dear hubby also bought me my very own infrared one because when I tried his to compare, it was reading 5-10 degrees higher than the probe, so I trusted the infrared better. I just set the probe temp in my presto pot to alarm 5-10 degrees lower. At least it lets me keep it at an average temp without getting to high. Once I pour into my pour pot I use the infrared as I add FO, dye & cool to pour temp.

So can you not just use wick pins in them instead of using the clips on the bottom??

Very easy to clean! Just wipe out with paper towels while it's still warm and your ready for next time. I don't ever actually wash it.

Those are really neat!! Do you reproduce the same ones?? My sister-in-law & family are from Massachusetts and are die hard Red Sox fans as well as a candle lover. Would love to get a hold of one of those for her

Stella, I always like reading your responses. They are VERY informative. And that's exactly how I use my presto pot in my MANY months(8 to be exact) of making candles. I just don't ladle because mine already had a spigot when given to me. I do have to be sure and put a piece of cardboard on the floor under where the spigot hangs off the counter and I run a piece of parchment paper or something of that sort down the cabinets or I just might end up with wax all over my cabinets & floor.

I had made a ton of votives when I first started making candles using 4794 in 3oz dixie cups with wick pins and never had a problem with cracking. Except of course that one time I stuck them in the freezer to cool quicker and forgot about them until the next morning, LOL. I guess we've all done that one at least once :smiley2: That mould sure does look pretty neat though. It probably also makes the sides much more shiny then the dixie cups too.