JJCandlesCrafts

Wow ksranch, THANKS! :)

I went off of a suggestion from my supplier to use 44-32-18 for my Palm Votives. They are burning a little hot/bright and am looking to find one and two sizes down, but I have no idea how A&P's numbering system works. I called the supplier and they suggested (based solely on what was on the shelves) 34-40-18, but that seems (44 to 34) like a big jump. Is it? And does anyone know what each of the numbers mean? 44 to 34 is going smaller, but the 32 to 40 is larger - but WHAT is going smller/larger? I was able to find the rest of their code out. My pack said 443218c20x680-100, so its: 44-32-18 Cotton 20x6 tab 8.0 Inches in 100 pack. Its just the 44-32-18 (i.e. the IMPORTANT PART) that I'm missing. I've tried searching here and Google, and haven't been able to find a definition. Any ideas? Thanks, Joe

To me, consignment helps the store so that they don't need to pay out for something that may not sell. Low risk for them, but with that low risk, there is a low reward of a percentage. Wholesale, they are taking the risk of purchasing without the "insurance" of being able to return what doesn't sell. The bigger risk here means a bigger reward for them - usually double your wholesale price. This "deal" sounds like they want the "pros" of both, without taking any risk at all. I feel that, at the least, it is unfair and a reasonable person would re-consider their stance if questioned. Note: People that want everything for nothing are generally not reasonable, and you probably have very little chance of working out a mutually agreeable arraingment. ~ Joe

I built mine about 8 years ago before I had seen anyone (or thought myself) to use JB Weld. I made 2, and one of them has a small leak because it looks like I didn't drill it out smoothly. It is very easy to do, WHEN you're able to get the right sized everything. My issues were finding the drill bit of the right size (19/32 I think?) and a thread tap (since, from my understanding, these are hard to find due to the use of PVC and glue these days). I haven't checked to see if anything's changed since I made mine, but if you have the right sized tools, you can save yourself some money, especially when you want to add pots in the future (trust me, you will ;-) )

Thanks Flicker. Think I'll stick with my pre-made brown. Too many variables to try to guess to make it right (using Yellow, Blue to make green, then adding red... ugh!)

I'll have to get back to you on the wicks. Was a suggestion from the supplier and don't recall off the top of my head, but will get you the size/type. The glass is hot, but still manageable. The flame is dancing and I've got a draft in the very large room I'm in (at work). I made a total of 12 votives. 6 I gave away (they were for decorative purposes, so wasn't afraid of testing before giving them out). Burned one at about 36 hour cure, and this one's at about 6 days. I figure I have 4 left and will burn one every other week to test. Also, will pick up some smaller wicks and test the heck out of those too

As you know, I'm having the opposite. I'm burning VERY fast, with a huge flame. After 2 hours: Still getting a little hang up on one side of the votive, which will clear up soon (based on this room and the draft I've been combating the last couple weeks). Palm, scented 1oz pp, melted 220, poured 190, cured 6 days. Going to wick down a size and test some more - getting some shroomage and afterglow too :-\

Try doing it while color blind. WOWSERS! Though I have been pretty accurate with Red, Blue, Yellow, Black, and Brown (cause, honestly, how the H*** do you make BROWN?!)

PRESTO PRESTO PRESTO. I disagree with the comments about small batches: Most of my pours are 1-2 containers (4-8 oz) at a time. The presto will have 16 ounces liquid in a matter of minutes, even palm which I get up to about 220 (Note: just because it's liquid doesn't mean it's ready to pour). Bigger batches take a little bit longer, obviously. I put a spout on my presto and, honestly, it's nice for bigger pours, but not absolutly needed. I think it is MUCH faster for bringing previously melted wax left over in the pot, or fresh wax up to temp, instead of waiting for the water to boil, inserting pour pot, waiting for wax to melt, monitoring and worrying about temp. I truely believe it will make the hobby very much more enjoyable to you! Much more controlled than double boiler, though fully agree you must remain diligent in monitoring the temp.

I think I can smell it all the way over here in Pittsburgh!

AWESOME find Chandler! Thanks SO MUCH!

The end of my 4 hour test burn in a 4oz tin. Xcel, "Raspberry", don't judge me on the color ;-) The only concern I have is it seems the melt pool took about 3 hours to reach the rim, and when I tested at 4 hour, it felt liquid to the bottom of the tin. Not sure if the tin getting hot and transferring that heat more effectivly than glass does caused this? More and more testing to come, but I'm really happy with these results!

Thanks RJ. My votive flame height is running really big, about 2" - going to have to dial that down a bit.

Thank you both! My new votive is burning with, what I think, a large flame, but not dangerously large or anything. Is there a standard with flame height for votives? :-\ Took some pics, but can get them from my phone into here. Maybe once I get home, or tomorrow. Trying to use a new Palm for votives. Gonna try some more and see if I need to wick down a bit. We'll see (and, of course, I'll post the actual wick, which I don't have in front of me). Thanks again! Joe

I was just wondering - How much of the results from your testing is personal preference and how much is more considered a "standard"? Obviously sooting/mushrooming, CT/HT are pretty standard (No sooting/No Mushrooming, preference for CT/HT), but... Flame Height (soft glow, nice flame, or torch?) Melt pool diameter (1/4" shell for pillars? Clean the glass for continers? Total consumption for votives?) Just trying to find if what I want a candle to do is the norm (since, let's face it, very few things I do are considered NORMAL ) Thanks! Joe

That's tough. If you take the displays you run the risk of the owner not having an adequate way to display your wares, which would result in both of you losing money/sales. Since they're already there, and not doing you any good elsewhere, I'd say talk to the owner and ask if she'd buy them from you, or, if not, then she can USE them with full intention of them bring returned at your request. Maybe have that written into your contract? HTH :-)

Original poster for president! ;-) "TNOF Club". I like it!

The same thing that's been in there for 7 years - Apple Pie Palm Pillar wax. BUT - This is the weekend I'll melt and pour it, clean out the pot, and begin-again. :) Very exciting!

Wait - There's more than one size now? Uh Oh.... ;-)

Wow! Not sure what she was thinking!!

I'm restarting my hobby/business(?) and have found that my local (i.e. NO SHIPPING) supplier does not offer any of my old waxes, meaning I'm starting from scratch. I've picked up a 10lb sample of the Xcel, and am wondering if anyone has any positive results with this wax. The only good I've read about it is mixing it with the PB for tarts (which I will be doing). But I'm curious as to how it will work straight as a container wax (which, i believe, was its original purpose). I've searched and have found very little info about this stuff, and would love some pointers from anyone that has had good luck with it. Thanks, Joe

I'm on my third name since signing up for this site lol. JJCandlesCrafts was a "working title", then started working with another name, which the (now) ex is using for her jewelry, and now I'm starting over solo (once I get all my business needs in order, I'll share the new name ) I am trying, this round, to do it right as opposed to a hobby I try to sell the products from to feed the habit. I have my business plan in mind and am working to make it come to fruition. Again, like you, this is "from scratch". The only left overs from previous attempts are the hardware (prestos, pour pots...) Heck, the waxes I used aren't available locally anymore, so I really am starting at square 1. Think of this as a new beginning. Looks like we're in the same boat

I've read that it is pretty accurate - people calibrate it after x months with specialized weights, however I would assume that is for the weight portion and not necessarily for the percentages (though, that would be a simple calculation based on the weight, so I would assume if the weight is right, the percentage would be accurate as well). Will most certainly put her through the paces and report back on it

I can do you one better: http://www.amazon.com/My-Weigh-KD-8000-Bakers-Scale/dp/B001NE0FU2/ref=sr_1_1?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1343852426&sr=1-1&keywords=My+Weigh+KD-8000+%22Baker%27s+Math%22+Scale Reading through the reviews really sold me on it. Was a tad more expensive than i wanted to spend, but at $38.80 with free shipping, wasn't HORRIBLE...

Though I haven't had a chance to play with it yet, "Bakers Math" gives you percentages. Therefore, if I tare my container, put a pound of wax in, hit the % button, and start adding scent it will tell me once I reach 8%, 10%, whatever% I want. Sounds REALLY helpful!