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Faerywren

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Everything posted by Faerywren

  1. Ricing, seizing and morphing are all problem that happen with cold process soap. Melt and pour shouldn't have any reactions like that. Maybe your base wasn't really warm and melty enough and when you put the cooler oil into it, it cooled off even more made lumps? just guessing.
  2. I use tins. Why not try actually making some and getting a recipe you like, then you can see what packaging works for you. Different feeling bars may lend themselves to different packaging applications.
  3. I don't think it's the sugar scrub cube recipe on top because that would disintegrate really quick in the shower. But sugar mixed into melt and pour soap base will settle to the bottom of the mold, which in this case is the top of the bar. The top scrub portion is poured, then the white portion poured next. I make a foot scrub soap with pumice, salt and cornmeal mixed into melt and pour. It settles out and the top of the bar is very "scrubby" for rough feet.
  4. Rule of thumb: Oils are oily, butters are buttery, therefore they are both greasy.
  5. Out of principle I will not wait for a skin to form then remove it with a toothpick blah, blah, blah. Honestly, who has that kind of time? I make embed soaps religiously on a large scale and have always sprayed with alcohol and never had any problems. She is the only person I've ever seen who didn't like to spritz with alcohol.
  6. I believe the corn starch is used to take away the greasy feeling and impart a "powdery" after feel.
  7. The first 3 ingredients are emulsifiers, they all impart different feels to your recipe that is why you may see all, one or a combo of all three (and even some other ones) in a recipe. In small amounts you could sub one for the others, but you may not get the feel or consistency you were looking for. The information about the difference between the butters is copius. Remember the "search" feature and Google are your friend.
  8. Like Kitn said, if you read, read, read and research, make sure your source is legitimate and knowledgeable, you can get a great recipe from the start. That being said, most folks aren't going to spend time and money on formulating the "ultimate (insert product name here)" then post that recipe on the internet. If you haven't already, looking at lotioncrafter.com and snowdrift farm may help.
  9. That's a lotion recipe. Most body butters are primarily butters with some liquid oils whipped together. They get more involved, too, but can also be really easy.
  10. Crock pot hp is awesome. It's my primary method of soaping, but I do a fair amount of cp, too. I use plastic spoons for mixing my lye water and to first incorporate my lye and oils. Silicone utensils work well, too. Columbus Foods is a good place for getting bulk oils.
  11. www.bayousome.com She has some great deals on bottles.
  12. I offer honey, olive oil, shea butter and cocoa butter soaps, but only certain scents in each. I try to pick scents that go with the soap base, but that doesn't always work. :rolleyes2
  13. I think it would depend on the application you are using it for. If it's a product with lots of water or a lot of fingers dipping into it, I'd go with the highest %. Less water and less chance of cross contamination, go with the lowest. The standard seems to be 1%, though.
  14. I have the Bramble Berry Beach Breezes. It does smell exactly like a day at the beach. Salty air, sea grasses and a little kelpy (Is that a word?). Not unpleasant, I use it in salt bars.
  15. It is indeed a lot to start with, but it you are willing to put in the time, money and effort to create a great product it's totally worth it. Making your own bath and body products or candles is not something to take lightly. It's a lot of trial and error to get a consistent safe product. Read, read, read. There is a wealth of great info on the web but there is also a lot of not so great (or downright unsafe) info, too. Good luck on your journey!
  16. I use plastic pipettes (3mL size). Many suppliers carry them.
  17. Beautiful soaps! And what a fancy cutter!
  18. Did a Teakwood and Cardamom shaving soap and a Saffron and Spice goat milk and honey loaf tonight. Plan to do Black Amber Musk/Vanilla blend tomorrow. I have a Cranberry Yuzu and Twilight Woods on the curing rack, too.
  19. This question comes up all the time, but think about what goes into a lotion bar. Oils, butters, waxes. All would be greasy when you rub it on your skin. There is a happy medium where you get a formulation that sinks in better than others. But the purpose of a lotion bar or stick is to be intensely moisturizing. That's why we use them on thicker, problematic dry skin like elbows, heels, knees and feet. I've read recipes that call for corn starch or Natursorb to cut the greasy, but haven't tried them. Maybe look into that?
  20. There are suppliers closer to you that carry SFIC bases. That may help with $hipping cost$.
  21. Most solid shampoos are known as syn det (synthetic detergent) bars. Search for recipes on the web and you'll get a lot of hits, as many soapers make them. As far as a "real" soap to use as shampoo, I've never found a recipe I liked. My husband uses my soap on his hair, but he has a "high and tight" haircut, so he's not washing much
  22. Forward the e mail to spoof@paypal.com If it's a phishing/scam e mail, PayPal will send you back a reply fairly quickly.
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