Abbiepql

I did not see you mention if any of them cured before you tested them. As a general rule I don't like to use FOs that need a long cure time, but it is the nature of some types of FO. The banana nut bread for one - it may need a couple of days. I would think you could go up on the wick if you are getting a great deal of hang up, but how long are you burning them before they start to hang up? Usually if you experience hang up only on one side it is due to a non-centered wick. Sure it may start out straight, but many curl or go sideways when they burn, so you have to tell your customers to keep them centered while burning. Just some suggestions.

I sell a great deal of Raspberry Patchouli - a very nice mix. Also have seen it mixed well with orange, apple and vanilla - give it a try. Patch is a witch to wick though.... Abbie:-)

Yes, it did take me a long time and a great deal of testing to find oils that worked really well in that range, and they are not cheap, but like Chris said, most of the ones in the higher range will use lower percentages so it balances out in the long run. I was just kinda taken back when reading that soy users were able to get soy wax to hold that much FO and that when using that much (8%+) in a candle could be profitable, especially when dealing in the wholesale market where most of my business is. Sure, I could sell a couple of high end candles a week, but if I price my product correctly taking into account all the varibles on price ranges - include a good profit margin - buy selling in CONSISTANT volume, it does not pay to use that high of a percentage. And that does not even take into account my wax manufacturer's SAFE load recommendations. Can you imagine having a suit brought against you and finding out that because you did not follow the manufacturer's recommendations the candle was unsafe! Chills here... And yes, great scent throw is up to an individual perception, but if you set a benchmark; for example using Jar A. within 40 mins your candle fragrance is smelled solidly throughout a large room or small house that takes much of the guess work out of it. Just some thoughts...

My candles throw GREAT with 5 - 7%, I won't use a FO that requires more than that. It is just not cost effective and I can't price my candles differently for different fragrances. Although I know some do. The market I sell in just would not take to paying one price for one scent and another for a more expensive one. I was just reading and curious as to how profit could be made with FO over $16 a lb. using over 9%. Very interesting...

I have been reading some posts on this forum and must ask...What is your average percentage of FO per lb.? I am reading posts on here of usage rates above 7% and I am wondering, how in the heck can one afford to sell candles at that rate and what additives are being used in soy to keep all that FO in there? I could not afford to sell candles if I was using that much FO, it would severly cut into what decent profit margin I have using 5-7%. Add to that... using FO that cost over $16 a lb. and I am wondering what are those candle makers charging for these fragrance oil candles? GEEZ Not meant to be critical, just so curious!

By day do you mean 24 hours or a normal work day? On a good work day I can pour 9 cases of 16 oz apothocaries and that is with melters that hold 50lbs. of wax - pouring syrupy (I don't get air pockets at all, verified by weighing them afterwards) That does not include wicking, fixing tops, wiping down jars, and labeling. 150 16 oz jars in one day unless you are pulling an all nighter with soy and presto pots seems a bit extreme!

I have had the same thing happen to my natural wax blend and this is going to be a switch, but you might have poured too cold! I know that many believe this impossible, but if you let soy wax set up too much, it becomes gainy and resembles watery grits! Also it will frost like a bugger if it is poured that cold. I don't think it hurts the performance of the candle burning/scent wise, but it does look odd.

Glycerin draws moisture out of the air, and if the wrap is not air tight, that is where the beads of moisture are coming from. Do like Cheryl said and take them out of the wrap, wipe 'em down and let them dry - then you might want to re-wrap in something air tight. I don't know what to say about the fading issue, mine don't seem to do that or I don't have any that have been arount too long to tell.

Since you are a using liquid polymer as an emulsifier, have you tried subbing out some of those butters, for oils? That might cut down the viscosity.

For linen spray I use 1 part distilled water to 2 parts witch hazel. Add to that a mix of emulsified FO with polysorbate. Works very nicely - clear, drys really quickly and the scent lasts longer than other bases I have tried costing alot more. Too many regs about using everclear or "booze" in products, plus I never got around the smell. I am thinking every state is different on what you can and can't do with alchohol, check with your local ABC.

I forgot - square braid in my experience does not cut it in container candles, they drown out as they are not very stiff, fall over and from I have read and experienced not created really for that type of application - I believe they work better in pillars. Again, just my experience - tried square braid #3 - #5.

Okay, I know that I must be an odd ball or there are others out there that are using the same wicks and just not talking about it! LOL I use 4 inch apothocary jars and HTP1212 & 1213 wicks (yes, I know they are big!) and they work just fine. I have yet to find any FO/color combination that does not work in my natural wax blend (soy & BW). If the FO is too heavy, I just don't use it! I have a large volume client that sells tin shades along with the candles, not good for use with more than one wick - that is one of the reasons I had to find one that worked. I have been wicking that way for over 4 years and never had a problem. Yes, you will not get the same fast throw - it will take 30-40 mins, but then they will clear the sides of the jar without a problem, as long as you let them burn for a while. If there is any hang up it is because the customer clip their wicks too short. When I double wicked I found the glass got way to hot and my customers don't follow directions and burn those suckers for hourse, besides never trimming wicks. Me, personally - I would rather have a bit of hang up on the sides than an accident because the jar gets too hot. JUST my experience as I know many candle makers double wick perfectly safely! Give it a try - Abbie:-)