blt212

Anyone find a good PBJ fragrance for soy or mix two together that work well...and if so have you found it sells? Thanks

Are all dyes Aniline based? I've been reading about how Aniline can cause bladder cancer. I would just prefer to not dye and may go that route but have some customers who only want dyed. Wondering if there's a safer alternative such as organic dye which can be used in candles?? Thanks for any input. Brenda

I've been purchasing Cajun aroma beads for a couple of years and they always worked great but the last order not so much. They take forever to absorb the FO. I mean over a week and even then not totally. It doesn't seem to be specific to any fragrance. I called them and they said, they're the same....huh?? I don't get it. Anyone else found this issue? I even put the jars with the beads and FO on a warming tray to see if it would help, not any better!

You need one for organic oil vapors (N95).....they come in both disposable and the canister type. Check out 3M's website. I've used both....my problem is I can't stand the feeling of air constriction with respirators and I'm wondering if I should look into the ones that have an air supplied pack. As for health problems and making candles....I have heard similar stories and posts. I never used anything the first few years but now I'm very aware because it seems I have come down with more rashes, bronchitis and odd health issues that I never had in the past. It could be cooincidence or just old age but it is concerning. It's also difficult to find good information about the best equipment/fans/etc to use and install. It's like there's a big elephant in the room but no one wants to mention it. Very frustrating.

To those commenting on this thread, do you use a respirator when pouring? I didn't 7 years ago but as the volume of candles I pour increased, so didn't my use of exhaust fans and respirators starting about 3 years ago. I hate wearing them because they constrict my breathing so I'm on the hunt for a disposable one that has an exhale valve. I called 3M and they suggested Model 8577 for anyone that's interested. I'd rather lean on the side of caution....I asked my doctor about the risks of working with fragrances and dyes and she said if there's anything in them that comes close to paints or solvents, she strongly suggested protecting myself. Unfortunately we don't know exactly what's in them because it's a big secret...makes you wonder why! They can still protect their formulas and expose any harmful ingredients so those of us using them alot can make informed decisions.....

I was looking at it from the fragrance oil perspective not so much the soy or paraffin...and also from making them not so much burning because of the volumes I make.

I think some of the dyes can be just as bad if not worse.....I'm trying to get ahold of an msds for reddig-glo dye chips. Will post if I can obtain. I think the FO mfg's need to be more transparent when it comes to providing info to candlemakers for health reasons. NG is good about posting msds sheets on their website.

Well trying to get any info out of the FO Mfgs or Dye makers isn't easy so leaves us trying to figure this stuff out ourselves.....really frustrating!

So does that mean Benzene is in the Fragrances?? Perfect timing as I've been shopping for a respirator that isn't so restrictive but also protective....

I have been using C3 for over 6 years and pretty much know all it's quirks but recently...within the last 6 cases or so, I've been getting frosting after the candles setup...usually within 8-10 hours. It shows up on the bottom of the jar and then creeps up the sides a little. It's not like I've never gotten frosting before but usually it shows up after months or when the candle has been warmed and cooled. It doesn't happen in all jars done within the pour and I can't pin it down to an FO or Dye. I'm using the same additives (uv usa) but tried it without just to be sure it wasn't those. Also tried without dye and while it's hard to see it still happens. Now understand the pouring temp and process has not changed at all. So I tried warming the jars, pouring cooler, hotter, covering the jars with a box...nothing is working and I'm starting to think there was a change in the formula. I did notice some of the flakes in some cases seemed to be more "pillar like". I have two lot numbers I've been using....L3B07 and L3F18....If anyone has those lots numbers can you comment on your results? Would appreciate if you could check your cases and let me know. I would love to go without dye but have some customers that want dyed so I am educating them on frost. I'd still like to solve the mystery though......just so weird it happens to some jars and not others... Thanks

Thanks Chuck thanks for the info. I just don't have enough room in my workshop to incorporate that process....often I'm pouring 150-200 jars a day.....so far the mats seem to be working pretty good and I can always turn them off in the warmer months.

Thanks I'm going to start doing it that way as well and see how it works....appreciate all your help!!

Thanks for the reply....maybe someone else will chime in that uses CMS's UV.....do you mind me asking if you add to the melter or to each pouring pot? I add the UV and USA to my melter.

I was able to get the thing cleaned with a degreaser then soap and water and a good rinse. Looks brand new. Thank you for all the suggestions...as always the forum is a wonderful resource.

Here's a couple of photos of the label and additive...CMS says is for Soy too and doesn't have to be used in undyed but they didn't seem to sure... https://www.dropbox.com/s/isywbxawizwdph1/photo%202.JPG https://www.dropbox.com/s/4696hl3oef6cmje/photo%201.JPG

I don't know why CMS's says to use so much less of a percentage, that does seem strange. I just checked the package label again and that is what it definitely says. I really haven't had any problems up until now with any other undyed ones. Never had a problem with the dyed ones either. I almost think that the light yellow on the jar is really the color the candle was and the rest of the jar got much whiter, like bleached out, so the yellow pops more. Especially on scents that tend to make the wax more discolored anyway, like Honeysuckle Jasmine. This shop does have lots of overhead flourescent lights but it also has alot of outside light coming in. If you're still having a problem with some undyed using that much of CS's than I'm not sure that's the way I want to go either. Do you add the UV to your pouring pot or in your melter? I've been putting it in the melter based on the total weight of wax I put in....for example, if I throw in 50lbs of wax than I'm adding 10 tsps. I may not use all of the wax at that pouring, so I turn it down to like 159F until I pour again. I wouldn't think it is affecting the UV because I've been doing this for years and this is the first issue. What color is CS's UV....CMS's is kind of a bright yellow color.....I'll have to take a picture and try to put it up on here to show you.

I use the one from the Candlemaker's Store and they suggest 1tsp for 5lbs. It's supposed to cover both kinds of uv but now I'm wondering. I order alot of FO's from CS so maybe I should check theirs out.

Thanks Candybee....I'm offering to remake or refund but not sure if dyed or undyed would be better if they decide to replace. Out of 30 or so candles, I would say they're all about the same. It's weird the way they morphed...whiter than normal in the front and the yellow was on the back of the candles, not as exposed to either the natural or florescent lighting. I have candles, made exactly the same way, in other stores with florescent lighting that are fine and have been in those stores lots longer. I'm thinking there is just too much of both kinds of light in this one shop.

I should also add that I use UV inhibitor in all candles Dyed or not. I add to my wax melter with the wax. I also use USA. This store also has a lot of natural light in addition to the uv inhibitor

I have a customer that has alot of flourescent lighting in their store. They ordered all undyed candles a few weeks ago. They just called because they are yellowing. I stopped to checked them out and the front which is most exposed to the lighting is very white, whiter than normal and the area on the backs of the jar have yellowed areas. I use UV inhibitor from the Candlemaker's store. We went with undyed to avoid any issues with frosting but this is not good. I don't want to remake and have it happen again...any thoughts? There was one of my dyed candles there and it was fine so I'm wondering if no UV inhibitor would be better?

I know it's so weird..I thought it was supposed to be stainless....the bottom of the melter where there's always wax was fine. I sent this same photo to Coogar so will see what they say. The whole reason I got into this was because I'm starting to get some darn frosting on the bottom of my jars out of the clear blue....and after ruling out most everything starting thinking it might be the wax. I use C3 Soy.....So while I was emptying the melter.....I made some candles with my Presto and they looked good no frost...til I just checked them again tonight and sure enough one or two has some on the bottom of the jar. I'm ready to scream....I would give up dye in a minute but have some wholesale customers that won't!.....In any event, I'll probably have a clean melter and frosty candles.....BTW, my daughter loves that magic eraser......will need to see if I can find the one she gave me. Thank you!!

This is definitely not going to clean up with soap and water. I bet a degreaser might work but not sure if I should use it in there and then put more wax in it. I tried the Goo-Gone on a little spot. Didn't touch it. It's drained and the bottom wiped out nicely with just paper towels because it didn't have a buildup like it does on the sides... https://www.dropbox.com/s/offbu1wzmio0rnm/Melter1.JPG

Thank you for the info....the paper towels aren't cutting it by themselves. Most of the residue is on the sides and mine is stainless steel also. I do have goo gone.....I guess it won't hurt to try it. I use C3 and it's kind of a mess.....I usually have it about 3/4 full so maybe that's why the sides got like that. Have a message into Coogar but haven't heard back yet.

I have a Coogar Direct Heat Melter and I really need to completely drain it and clean it. There's a brown residue on the sides and it doesn't just wipe off. Anyone know how to get this stuff off, maybe a degreaser? I don't want to use something that will be a problem when I refill... Thank you!!

I use the dye chips and find that will happen if I don't melt them first in the pouring pot with my heat gun. Purple and Reds can still be tough but if you stir good it's usually not too bad. You'll see some flecks at the bottom of the jar but typically can be covered by the warning label. If you're making soy melts and want them to be perfect, use some cheesecloth....a pain but it works.