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blt212

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Everything posted by blt212

  1. Thanks Carole....I'll check out WSP;s tins ...... Brenda
  2. I'd like to make tins but are concerned about the "catching on fire" posts. I talked to someone in a shop who sells them and she said that there are different quality tins. She buys from a company in Poultney, Vermont and the tin is heavier than most and doesn't get really hot. It was a 3" dia by 2" high tin....anyone have feedback on a good supplier. Unfortunately, I couldn't find the candle company in Poultney to ask directly.... Thanks Brenda
  3. Ok, I've been at this for hours and I'm embarassed to say....I cannot figure it out. I'm using vodahost for my website and I'm trying to configure the Mals cart to work with it. The issue I'm having is that I'd like to be able to have the customer select a fragrance for a candle from a dropdown menu on the website and have the fragrance name show up in the cart. I have the dropdown included in the Form and it's posting the product name I've given it to the cart but not the fragrance. If the fragrance doesn't get to the cart, how would I know what was ordered? I was hoping to avoid setting up a Buy Button for each candle fragrance. I hope I'm making sense because I'm really tired. Did I also mention I hate html Thanks Brenda
  4. Thanks for the info.....I'll check it out. I hope it works out because now I see my regular supplier is out of both jars and lids....
  5. I'm so excited, I just found out the Jar Store is about 12 miles from my house and they carry Naturewax C3. I was able to pickup 2-50lb boxes today and they also gave me 4 sample jars which are very nice. However, the thought of changing jars at this point doesn't really appeal to me Which brings up my next question. Does anyone know where I can get a good price on the "Primitive Screw-On Metal Mason Black Lids". I'm currently purchasing them from Candles and Supplies along with the 16oz pint masons and the lids are $10.80 per dozen almost twice as much as the jars. They are the chunkier style ones.... Thanks Brenda
  6. Hmmm, that's odd that he has another email address, maybe that's why it was difficult getting info from him unless I called the company directly.
  7. I decided to go with the Indie Beauty Network Insurance - signed up today and already have received my insurance certificate via email. The policy will come via us mail. It was very easy and while a bit more expensive ($495yearly) than the American Craft Council, it also includes membership as well as additional coverages. Brenda
  8. Did this insurance work out for you. I've contacted Larry and I've been waiting over 3 weeks to get this finalized. Just wondering how long it took to get finalized.... Thanks Brenda
  9. All of the FO's I tested so far are from Candlescience - possibly the smoking is related to your FO's, any additives or dye?
  10. I use C3 in 2.5 dia, pint masons, eco10. No smoking but they do tend to mushroom with some FO's. I started with eco12 and went down to the 10 on everything except CS's Basil and Herb. Brenda
  11. I'm thinking about purchasing one of these for myself and have thought about reselling (when I actually start selling :smiley2: ) Does anyone have feedback on how well they sell and what to retail them at. I prefer the 2006 design and it wholesales for $5.25 boxed. Since my containers are the 16oz pint masons, I would find it useful to get an even wick trim as the container burns down since it's tough using scissors or toenail clippers in a 5" high jar. Thx Brenda
  12. Thanks everyone for all the great advice.....One more question, speaking of buying additional pouring pots. The only one I have purchased didn't come with any measuring marks. Is this typical? If some do come with them, where can I purchase.... Brenda
  13. Tim: Thanks for the note and info. I am using C3 and as I said, I've only experienced really bad frosting working with the red dyed candles and some blue/purple. On the days those were poured, I also poured many others and the pouring and room temp was consistent. They were all stored in the same place and several days later, the only ones that frosted were the red. With that said, I understand it may and probably will be back in future pours. However, I found it interesting that these containers now look great after being remelted and poured at cooler temps...they were previously poured at 155F. I also noticed I didn't get the sink holes pouring cooler either. The negative, the additional time waiting for the wax to cool....sure seems like a long time. Might be time to order more pouring pots :smiley2: Brenda
  14. I used C3 wax in 16oz containers (2.5 inch diamater) with ECO 10's and 12's depending on the FO but mostly the 10's work out the best. I've tried HTP's and CD's and continue to come back to ECO's. They do tend to mushroom a little especially if your test burning for over several hours... Good luck. Brenda
  15. :smiley2: It's been days and the jars still look great......definitely pouring at lower temps at least for the reds and blues Brenda
  16. Type of Soy or Soy Blend you use? Naturewax C3 Additives if any? None Preferred dyes? Dye Chips Preferred wick (Not sizes)? ECO Pouring temp you recommend? 100-105 What you do to prevent rough tops? Pouring temp above and use heat gun when needed Do you do anything to prevent wet spots? Warm the jars with the heatgun before pouring
  17. I just got the ez wick setter the other day and I love it. It's quick and easy to use. Definitely worth the price.
  18. Out of 42 containers I poured of various colors, 3 red dyed ones had terrible frosting. I know it's common in soy but I still don't like how it looks. So after reading several posts I heated them in the oven and repoured at 155F...unfortunately it came back even worse. BTW, I use C3 soy wax and dye chips from Candlescience. So I came back to the forum and read about pouring C3 cooler and almost slushly. Ok, so I remelted them again and repoured at 105F and covered them with a box while cooling and they look great - right now anyway. If this works, I will always pour cool from now on. I also want to say I used the stick'ems and even while they were melting in the oven, they didn't release. They are definitely alot better than the glue dots....
  19. Thank you Stella.....I will keep testing. I haven't burned it to the bottom yet. Not even half way.....not sure how long it will take but love the smell. As for candlemaking...I was thinking of selling but the more I read in the forum, the more I'm worrying about the liability. I've purchased a bunch of supplies already so worse case, I'll have candles till I die. The whole process is alot of fun and quite rewarding. BTW, do you know if there's a shelf life on fo's. I purchased 12 different scents of the 16oz size from Candlescience. They are all in dark glass bottles. Brenda
  20. Hello everyone....I have found this forum extremely helpful while learning how to make candles. I am using C3 Soy in 16oz containers (2 1/2" wide) mason jars (5"tall w/straight sides) with eco 12 wicks and 1oz fo. One question I have is that on some of my fo's, (ex caramelized pecans) the wick gets the double-heading mushroom thing and on others it doesn't. Does this mean it's not the wick but related to fo. I'm also thinking I may need to wick down to an eco 10 and wonder if anyone has had experience with this jar/wick combo. Also, I poured 5 containers of wildberry mousse the other day and got some frosting or at least what I think is frosting on the top 1/3 of the candle on 3 out of 5 candles.....heated wax to 170, added dye while heating, added fo at 165 and then poured at 150. Should the wax be poured into the container all at once because I do recall having to refill my pyrex measuring cups and continue filling some... Thx Brenda
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