kidsngarden
-
Posts
731 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Articles
Media Demo
Forums
Gallery
Events
Store
Blogs
Downloads
Everything posted by kidsngarden
-
The whole debate over whether or not this is "sick" or "dirty" and such is laughable. Not only because people get so defensive, but because when it comes to cold process soap milk is milk is milk as far as animal or human milks go. You will probably see a difference in fat content, but what "germs" or what not will survive saponification? ETA - reminds me of those who feel strongly that milk MUST be pasturized before soaping!
-
Aside from the fact that breast milk is LIQUID GOLD and this is a total waste of it IMO, I hate that they totally burn the milk and that hope that people don't look at this video and think these people are experts or something. Overall their methods were fine, accept for burning the milk, but little things bugged me - like how long they let it sit before they cut and how they didn't understand gel. Really, I think breast milk soap would be just as good as any other milk soap.
-
So pretty!
-
Thanks Barbara! I don't think it is going to darken. I used just a regular old labatt or something like that (I don't drink and never have so it was funny to go buy it - just one 24 oz can of whatever was cheapest, lol!) The beer was pretty dark, like amber even. I used 100% beer, no water and my recipe has a significant amount of Lard in it so my soaps generally are pretty white unless I color them or use a darkening FO. I'm making some more with a can of milkwaukee, but I will likely fragrance it with a darkening FO.
-
owosso of course! Thanks!
-
YAY! It's working now but that is a really big pic, lol!
-
So I don't know why my image is not showing up?
-
Unscented. First time soaping beer and it of course accelerated and ashed. But I am embracing the ashing, lol!
-
Sources for base oils (what am I doing wrong?)
kidsngarden replied to GrinningGoblin's topic in General Soap Making
Check for a cash and carry near you. I got a gallon of pomace olive oil there for about a buck cheaper than BB's gallon. Sometimes with OO what you are getting killed on is not being able to find pomace, which is what you really want to soap with not virgin or extra virgin - the more expensive kinds! I find BB prices to not be too far off the mark if you buy in bulk, but they are local to me so I pick up. one thing that can really kill ya is LYE. I get mine by the 50 pound bag from a local chemical supply and save TONS. Check around for a chemical supply or pool supply. I get my citric for bath bombs there too, but it is only about $13 less than BB's 50 pound bag. -
Maybe I should soap a bacon FO? you know it actually really might sell, but I personally wouldn't want to wander around smelling like bacon!
-
motor oil, like mineral oil and vaseline (which of course is far more refined and no additives), do not saponify. This is why we can use mineral oil or vaseline to grease our plastic soap molds. If you tried that with a natural oil like sunflower or lard or what not the soap would stick because the oil would saponify. I do really love mineral oil on my skin, however. it doesn't really absorb, but protects. I have a patch of excema that flairs up just a bit in the winter and I use it on it all the time! I think it has gotten a bad rap over the years. I am also a fan of lard soaps and feel there is no better soap than those made with mostly animal oils. Most of my blends are lard based, and yes, I have a following because of it!
-
I make mainly milk soaps using fresh goat milk. I only use 100% GM on a few varieties however. Of course the water naturally found in the milk does evaporate out eventually, BUT because the value that is leftover from milk is fat, if you use 100% really what you are getting from milk is MORE superfat. So, 100% gm soaps will have a higher superfat then soaps with a water/gm mixture. I used to ONLY make 100% GM soaps, but the logistics became too much with the volume I was doing. I really hate dealing with dry lye as you do with 100% milk soaps, preferring to use premixed and cooled lye solutions. I now use a 50/50 lye/water mix and add liquid GM at emulsification with most of my varieties.
-
Meaning that it is more gentle and soothing on the skin than scrubby oatmeal. It is what my customers with eczema prefer. The scrubbiness of regular oatmeal does not feel good on already irritated skin!
-
I now use it in my OMH soap and people LOVE it. I feel it offers far more oatmeal "value" than soaps with scrubby oatmeal! and there are very few additives cause it's baby food.
-
Yes on the baby food oatmeal. You will have no scrubbiness at all!
-
Early spring craft fair reports ...
kidsngarden replied to Judy, USMC's topic in Business Side of Things
Spring shows just are never worth it for me. I only do larger holiday shows or summer farmers markets. -
and packaging - ULINE as well. I should add that for lye and citric I buy them in 50 pound bags from a chemical supply. Saves TONS and once again NO SHIPPING!
-
I buy most from Brambleberry, but they are 30 minutes away so NO SHIPPING. Because there is no shipping I find buying their oils in larger quantities (like 5 gallons plus) is CHEAPER than columbus foods etc. Plus as a general rule the quality of their FO's etc. is always stellar. AND nothing beats being able to sniff before I buy!
-
no idea about MP, but I would think you could. You can use pringles cans. I wipe with a bit of mineral oil and just tear off to unmold. Other round soaps are made using PVC pipe with a capped bottom. Line with freezer paper. you can then use a pusher (slightly smaller pipe with cap or something similar) to push the soap out of the mold after removing the bottom cap. pop in the freezer for a smidge before to help it come out easier.
-
I have never found that any "Water" like teas or the like have really made a difference in my soaps. That said I pretty exclusively make soap with fresh GM and when I have added things like aloe, etc it has been with GM as well, so I don't notice the difference. I just really can't imagine how teas and the like can withstand the lye monster and still retain their values. but yes, I know that there are soapers who swear by it. hopefully someone who does will chime in.
-
I have never used rosewater in soap, but highly doubt any benefits and very likely not the fragrance would survive saponification. It would give label appeal however.
-
I use mineral oil because it won't saponify and it's CHEAP. I don't know anything about silicone in regards to soaping, but I would imagine since it is synthetic too that it won't saponify either.
-
I have used them and they work just fine. You may have to pop them in the freezer for a bit to get the soap out. I always coat the mold with some mineral oil too.
-
Psychedelic! Awesome!
-
wonderful!
