Peachdream

I get mine in ziplock bags and just the whole thing into another larger bag and go to town with my husbands rubber mallet. If you have trouble getting it out of your tub you could melt it over a double boiler or in the microwave and pour into another container with easier access. It will set up just as hard again. Have fun:)

I had some palm shortening that went like this. does it come off if you wipe a cloth across it...could be ash otherwise.

You sure did AJ. Someone was after tricks/tips for HP and you gave us newbies a fabulous set of instructions that worked like a charm. I was hooked after the first batch! http://www.craftserver.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34587&highlight=HP+oven

Thats a great tip, thanks Eugenia!

I started off with HP. I was far too impatient for CP and I was nervous about the lye and wanted to make sure all my pots and bowls etc had soap and not raw soap in them at the end. A year later I have switched to CP. I was disappointed at first how quick it was, but now I love the swirling and texture so much I only use HP when I stuff something up. AJ has an awesome HP tips thread on this site that I used when I started. It really helped me.

I usually use castor at 3-5%. When I first started soaping I was using it at 10% but really did not notice much difference in the lather with the lower percentage. Its also a more expensive oil so I use just the minimum to keep costs down. I prefer to spend my money on my fragrances and additives...

Mine arrived yesterday and I tried the shea body butter recipe from the review on Kangaroo Blues site. Its pretty butter heavy so I was amazed how instantaniously it turned into a thick, shiney cream. I just kinda stood there thinking how I was missing out on stirring as it cooled, and stirring some more before bottling. The cream felt great on my legs so I am excited about trying a lotion to see if it will be pourable. I am happy to try some of my more expensive oils with it now I have seen some results.

For my batches (250g of srefined shea & 50g FCO) I use two heaped teaspoons. Have never tried more, but less definitely wasn't enough.

I use mango butter for my face lotion. I find shea aggravates my acne prone/sensitive skin and will not use it on my face. I love squalene on my face too.

Soapersworkshop.com do custom bases. Have a look at her website for an idea of what is involved in having your own base made.

Me too...I heat more water than required (usually 10-20% more, which is more than enough as probably only 5% or less evaporates) and after its heated weigh it properly and toss the extra. Its much easier to me than fluffing around heating more water or weighing the lotion after its made and adding water in then.

Its usually used as a thickener or secondary emulsifier. I have found some suppliers might have cetearyl alcohol instead which is a mix of cetyl and stearyl alcohol. If you are not needing its emulsification, you could use another thickener like stearic acid or a gum, depending on what you are making. HTH.

I have just ordered some fumed silica from lotioncrafter for this very reason. Was recommended by an experienced b&b maker who uses it for bath milk and dry clay masks. Apparently you only need .025 to .5% to keep everything flowing.

I can still remember my first batch. It was HP and the oil smell was quite prominent which freaked me out a bit too. I find particularly soaps high in olive smell the strangest to me. Just as everyone else has said, it goes away in the following weeks as it cures. Welcome to the addiction!

It might be helpful for you to read a bit more about its properties. I avoid it like the plague in all products as it plays havoc with my sensitve/acne prone skin. I choose to use cyclo/dimethicone instead for the glide in products instead. Just for your info, not trying to scare you:)

Thank you! I am probably overthinking it:) I will go ahead and test them without anything. It keeps it more additive free that way which is why I am doing them dry in the first place. I am thinking of putting a bottle of hydrosol with the jar and putting it in a nice little baggie.

I am thinking of doing a dry clay mask and have a few recipes to try. I am wondering if eventually these would absorb moisture and start to clump if stored in jars. What could I add to absorb any excess moisture? I was reading about fumed silica for this use in bath salts but am not sure if it would work in a face mask. Has anyone any experience or advice on dry masks? TIA!!!!

I use mango butter, jojoba and sunflower in my face lotion. I have terrible problems with adult acne and this does the trick most of the time. I started out with just the sunflower oil as that is supposed to be no problem for difficult skin. Then I added the jojoba and finally the mango until I was happy I was not going to breakout.

It will make it thicker than expected and possibly a bit waxy feeling when you rub it in, depending on how much extra you used.

Sounds like a mild burn from the pH being too high in the surfactant. Ouch, I did that once to myself trying to make a foaming face scrub without a pH meter. Never again! A healing salve with emu oil, evening primrose etc. might work unless you feel he needs to see a doctor. Keeping the area uncovered helps, but that might be a problem if he has to leave the house:)

I have seen an anti-cellulite product with guarana extract in it too. Think its the same idea as the caffeine, increases circulation. Shame you didnt like the scrub. I made and have been using an emulsified foaming sugar scrub for the past two weeks and can see an improvement in my bumps and dimples already (or maybe its wishful thinking?).

I got an information sheet when I ordered some BTMS. It said to add the percentage of ewax and stearic and then half it to get the amount of BTMS to use by itself. I tried that with my emulsified scrub and the darned thing just would not form an emulsion. I ended up adding some ewax until the emulsion held and was extremely happy with the result of using them both together. I have not tried the BTMS in my lotions yet, it might hold a smaller percentage of oil together better.

Try sagescript.com ...think there was a t missing in the previous post.

what other liquids are you adding along with the Fo? The mix is definitely too moist if they go off that quickly. I find the correct consistency is quite dry and only barely holding together in small bits. The pressure of stuffing them in the molds is what does a lot of the work and they wont fizz (much). Its definitely harder than it looks making a good bath bomb, for sure!

I use the microwave exclusively for my M&P and have never had a problem with frosty looking soap. I read the warnings that could happen so I use the medium setting on the micro and check it every 20-30 secs. I try and look for the point where there is still a small unmelted lump, then take it out and stir gently til that piece melts by itself. I have actually boiled my base a couple of times by mistake...usually when I am using a really small amount of it and get sidetracked. Those times it didn't have a frosty look, rather millions of bubbles that never seem to go even when I spritz them in heaps of RA. I think the quality of the base might have something to do with it maybe?