jennifer

Wow, I just looked up instructions on making these and I'm definately going to try! Thanks for adding this it will sure help!

Were you using the regular aluminum foil or the new Reynold's "release" foil?

Come on, surely someone, a supplier, anyone knows something concerning the base oils for fragrances...

I wasn't really certain as to what to search for--I searched "soy oil carrier" I am wondering a few things I guess. 1. Does a FO in a soy oil carrier have a better throw in soy wax? ---okay I found a little about this one, but does anyone have any comments? 2. Can you add a higher % of FO for soy oil carriers vs. synthetic carriers? 3. Does a soy oil carrier blend better with soy wax? maybe others out there have questions too that they could add

Thanks you guys! PM'd ya back Geek

unfortunately, the wick sample pack that I purchased did not have any 93s in it, so I have not tried 93s.

I've been doing some searching and there seems to be a disagreement on whether too big of a wick will decrease scent throw. Most think that it will in the threads that I looked at which is one reason I'm worried about using the wicks on the left. Here is my problem...I don't want to use an HTP 1212 so i decided to double wick my 1/2 pint square mason jar. I've seen some suggestions that said to use two HTP 52s or 62s unfortunately I don't have any that small--the smallest that I have is an HTP 83. So, I tried using two 83s and as you can see in the right side of the picture the flames are tiny so I tried using two 104s and as you can see in the left side of the picture the flame is too big and the melt pool is too deep. So my question I guess is should I buy even smaller wicks...I'm just not sure since the 83s seemed too small. By the way the wax is MCs 100% soy (I gather that it is actually GB 415) with a little beeswax and frostop. The scent is Lonestar's Lilac at about 6%. Oh yeah, I did try single wicking with a 105 in a pint jar and this seemed to do well, the wax left on the sides of the jar eventually caught up--but not in the 1/2 pint. Sorry this is so long I just wanted to try to get all the information that might be needed in the first post.

1. Which of these two wick types burns hotter? 2. Which seems to have a better throw in 100% soy? I have a soy blend candle that I bought somewhere and it has a really amazing throw--it uses zinc wicks. Now I realize that different blends will affect throw and so will different wicks, so since I don't know what the blend was I thought that I would ask your opinions concerning wicks. Currently I'm using HTPs and like them for the most part.... Also feel free to chime in with a different wick that you think has a good scent throw. TIA

okay, let's see if i understand this or have it slightly backwards. do I had the fo as a part of the % such as: 87.75% soy wax 4.00% beeswax 2.00% frostop 6.25% fo or should I be doing: 94% soy wax 4% beeswax 2% frostop and then add 6.25% FO of that total weight I think that I get it right and then I get confused so I would greatly appreciate your quick replies. TIA, Jenn

I've done some searching but couldn't come up with the answer. Is there anything that I can add to Mill Creek's soy to improve the scent throw. Right now I'm adding beeswax and Frostop to help with appearance. I had purchased a candle that was labeled as a "soy blend" and it's throw is amazing! and I would really like to have a comparable throw. TIA

Thanks everyone! I'll make a few pre-finalization changes and then I will post a pic with one on a candle...assuming I can get my printer to work with the color cartridge.

From the research that I have done, you should do the second pour about 10 degrees hotter than the first pour. HTH

That's a really good point about the e-mail vs. the phone #. I hadn't thought of it that way since I constantly use the computer, I suppose that I could use a phone number for the label and perhaps both on a business card since I would have more room without a scent name. Did you have a preference for the 3 fonts?

pic number 3

pic number 2

here are three new pictures of labels that I would like your thoughts on...

Okay, so I need to change at least the black font and make the picture bigger and either change the scent font or make it bigger. I tried to download some fonts but now I can't find them on my computer which is weird cause normally I can find what I need. I'll make some changes and post another pic so I can get more thoughts. Oh I plan to either have a sign with net weight when I get that far or possilby put it on the caution sticker on the bottom...is that alright or does it need to be more prominently placed on the jar?

Here is my label, do you have any thoughts, opinions or anything else? Right now my printer is on the fritz so I took a picture off my computer that's why it looks kinda funny. Let me know what you think.... added new pics at end of post

I haven't started selling yet, but I was figuring up my own costs for a 8 ounce square mason--it was about 2.50. The whole time though, I kept thinking that if my cost now with shipping is 2.50 then in the future it will be lower so even if I take a 'cut' now by not marking up 3x or 4x, in the future the cost and retail price may very well even out to 3x or 4x. Try to keep that in mind, your income will be slower to start with, but it should even out with time. HTH, Jenn

Thanks! You have all been so helpful. I'm going to try your suggestions today as soon as I get my delivery. I never know when to expect it--sometimes 1:00 and sometimes 4:00. Oh well, at least it shows up I guess. Jenn

You can get them at http://www.kitchenkrafts.com/product.asp?pn=PG1605F&bhcd2=1149650097 but they are 5.95 each. You can also get them at http://www.coastalbaycompany.com/j61160.html a 32 pack is $43.91 they have a 10% discount for over 16 cases(64 jars). Those are the only places I could find but they are more expensive than you are paying now. But if you only need to order a few occasionally to supplement what you are getting at the hardware store one of those places may work. Good luck.

So then I should probably just heat until everything is melted (checking temp just to be sure it is 160 or above), add fo and dye to wax in a preheated pour pot and then pour when it is cool? That would actually be a little easier because I feel like I'm constantly checking the temperature when I'm melting.

I hadn't considered that it could be fo. I think that they are air bubbles though because it is most obvious when I use a heat gun to get rid of some of the frosting--I just suddenly have tiny bubbles all over the jar surface that rise to the top and dissapear.

I add the fo at 175. I also use liquid dye less than five drops normally if that would make a difference.

I use 100% soy flakes from Mill Creek. I normally heat to around 180 or 185 and pour when the wax is just past being cloudy--still liquid enough that it doesn't splatter when I pour--normally between 100 and 105.