swamp_deb

Kelly, the only m&p that I have done is fishies in a bag. There are lots of suppliers that have molds like you are looking for, maybe someone who does m&p will come along with a good supplier. You can always check the classifieds on this board and look on ebay.

For a perfect rectangle soap you can use a slab or log mold and cut your soaps and not bevel any edges or you can look for individual molds, which are you looking for? Also are you needing this for cp, hp or m&p?

Always, always, always run your recipe through a lye calculator. Even the best soap makers make typos sometimes. I too suggest you make your first soap with a simple recipe, either of the two already suggested would be great. Making your first batch will answer a lot of your questions. You don't need fancy oils to make great soap. Get a few batches under your belt before you put anything expensive in there. Good luck, I'm sure you are gonna love it!

I bought some at Hobby Lobby.

Jenn at lotioncrafter usually ships the same day you order. If you order and pay early enough it should go out today, tomorrow at the latest. I have to warn you though, if you go to her site you may want more than cetyl. I always try something new each order I place, she has great stuff.

Cutting is the reason I bought Kelsei molds. If I had to hand cut my soaps they would be classified "pre-primitive" I am cut impaired.

Another thing you may need to consider is the age of your first three batches. Even HP soap is milder a few weeks after the cook. I know that I will use the scrapings to wash my hands as soon as it cools, but I really like the soap better when it has had some shelf time. You will get people telling you exactly how long saponification takes in certain processes, I know what works for me and that is curing time after I cut the bars. I find this to be true with cp and hp. Keep making soap, you will learn from each batch, xperiment and see how you like your soap, that is the best teacher.

At least it's a clean habit.

As soon as I can I scrape what's left in the bowl and on the spoon, and wash my hands, instant gratification! Hope you enjoy your soap.

I haven't noticed any difference at all, the only problem I have found with the flakes is that they will kinda clump together if shipped in the heat of summer. My first pko was in flakes, I bought it in a co-op, then I ordered the cube from columbus foods and have no problem using a knife to chip off what I need.

Ok, I have a confession to make, I still have some of this great body butter from the swap. One of the reasons to be in a swap is to learn about different formulas and preservatives, this one has stood the test of time. Nothing is growing or smelling funky and it has been over a year. I have had to toss some, but not this one! It is a great recipe Cindy, it still feels great and smells great.

I haven't had any problems, when people read it they think of it as the big companies vs the handcrafter and laugh, they actually think it's cute.

With the exception of soap everything that I make including lip balm has this warning on the label in red: Warning the safety of this product has not been determined. Friends and family are loving this product. Those are the colors I use and I use the same size font for both statements. I am not a big time seller, but I want to be as correct as possible with my labeling.

Bethany, try using BTMS-50 instead of or with your e-wax, it is a conditioning emulsifier and bonds with the skin to form a protective barrier.

I've never tried scenting after the whip. When mine sets up it is kinda stiff, so I don't think it would work with my recipe.

Soap today? You gotta break it in some time.

Thanks Norm, I downloaded paint.net and now I'll have to play with it to figure it out.

I started out with a cigar band under shrink wrap, way too much work and the soap was too covered. Went to the box and thought it was just as much work by the time I made the stick on label, put the soap in the box, stick the label on then close the box. I now do a label on heavy weight paper the size of a business card, put the label on the back and shrink wrap with Dan's Bands. This way all the info is on the soap and under the shrink wrap and stays clean. You can see the top of the soap and any swirls or fancy top and the end is open to sniff.

That's the only place I've seen them. If anyone finds them wholesale, I want some too!

It's on the isle with the oils at our walmart.

My first ever batch of cp was 'Rachel's Tried and True' from miller's site. While it made a big batch, I didn't worry as much because I was afraid that the scales (cheapest postal scales) I had didn't weigh the smaller amounts as accurately. My mold was a dishpan lined with a kitchen garbage bag. I liked that recipe because I could buy everything in the grocery store. I didn't worry about using fragrance or color with that first batch and I loved it. That was all it took to hook me. What ever you decide, don't forget to take all safety precautions and I hope you enjoy soaping as much as I do! Good Luck!

My first batch was 8 pounds, it worked for me. I soaped "Rachel's Tried and True" from Miller's site, used a dishpan with a garbage bag for a liner. Use any box that you have and line it with freezer paper, garbage bag or a shopping bag turned inside out so the print won't bleed into your soap. You don't have to have a fancy mold to make great soap! I also think that experience is the best teacher, figure out ahead of time the method you want to use with your goat milk by careful research, then if you like it, fine, if not then back to the drawing board to find another way to incorporate your goat milk. I have milk frozen, canned and powdered on hand to soap whatever way suits my fancy at the time. It is really good to try different ways to find what works for you, just remember to always use safety precautions when you are soaping.

I use my regular bar soap to shampoo so I don't see why not, give it a try. As far as the preservative the vinegar may be enough to keep the germs and mold away. You can always use your bar soap to shampoo, then a vinegar and water mix to rinse away any residue left on your hair. Less mixing involved and you can mix your vinegar and water as you need it.

That's what I was thinking too.

Kelsei, upland, secret garden and home-made.