Roxanne

I use one of these: http://woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=564 (the 3/16" & 1/4" version). You used to be able to buy just the cornering tool for about $8, but it looks like you have to buy the set with the sharpener now.

My guess is that you made an error when you were weighing out the ingredients, since that formula should set up with no problem (over 50% solid fats, 34% lye solution). That's a shame, because it looks like it would make a nice soap.

I use just 1/3 teaspoon of the chromium green oxide per pound of oils to get a rich green. The hydrated chromium green takes even less; I think 1/4 teaspoon PPO will give a nice teal. I don't know how low you'd need to go with red oxide to prevent colored lather or washcloths, since I gave up on that one. This is a soap made with chromium green at 1/3 teaspoon PPO, with a bit of black oxide added to the green for the swirl:

It can easily happen with red oxide; I only tried that a couple of times, because it seemed that just about any amount was enough to make red or at least pink lather. How much colorant are you using per pound of oils? The only time I've had any color on the washcloth from black oxide was when I used too much in a dark swirl. Usually I just use a bit of black to darken other colors, and that's never caused a problem. And I've never had problems with the greens (chromium oxide or hydrated chromium oxide), even with very rich colors -- but it doesn't take much to get strong color with those, especially the hydrated chromium oxide. One other possibility is that if the soap is soft, from not drying out well between uses or something, a bit more soap might rub off on the washcloth when it's used. I do try to make sure my colors don't come off on the washcloth, but I agree with the other posts that as long as the color washes out, it isn't really a problem.

I use the TD from http://suppliesbystar.com/drypigments.html .

Bergamot is supposed to be one of the worst photosensitizing oils, but you can buy bergaptene-free bergamot, also known as bergamot FCF, which has the phototoxic elements removed. Also, distilled lime EO is supposedly not phototoxic or photosensitizing. It doesn't smell as good as cold-pressed lime in my opinion, but that's the trade-off. I've read conflicting opinions on whether folded citrus oils lose their photoxicity; I wish I could find a definitive answer on this. I use 0.5% fragrance for all my lotions. For ideas for EO blends, check out the blend calculator at Rainbow Meadows: http://www.rainbowmeadow.com/infocenter/calc_eoblend/blendselect.php

Neroli from Aroma Haven.

Go to http://www.yourmailinglistprovider.com/pubarchive.php?bcsouth and click on the first link to get the July newsletter for Bitter Creek South. The code is noted near the top.

I'm so glad you posted this. During a sample sale last year, I bought 30 1-ouncers for myself plus 10 more for a friend. Trying to assimilate that many new scents at once was overwhelming, and some scents didn't get a fair shake. One of the ones that got shortchanged was Seventh Heaven. I just pulled it out to sniff, and it's wonderful! I definitely need to try it in a candle or some soap -- or both. Thanks!

If you already have a recipe that you know fits the mold in question, why wouldn't you just use the same amount of oils for the new formula?

I feel the same way, and not because I have any interest in saving copies of anybody's photos. Right-click has many uses besides viewing/saving photos. I use it all the time to open a linked page in a new tab, and sites that try to stop me from doing that are very irritating. Especially since anyone who knows much about browsers will have no problem saving copies of photos regardless of whether right-click is disabled.

I use EZ Soy and like it. With 96% EZ Soy and 4% beeswax, I get nice, smooth tops both before and after burning. I do get frost, but frost doesn't bother me.

I recently bought a Presto Pot for $2.50 at a thrift store's half-price sale. I had to spend about two hours cleaning the outside of it (the inside was pretty clean), but I figured it was worth the effort for that price. I've used it a couple of times and it works great.

I used to use 5% beeswax, because that was the number I read when I first started playing with candles. When I read later that you could use less, I experimented and found that 4% beeswax/96% soy works best for me; 3% beeswax didn't give me quite the results I wanted. I didn't have any cracking with 5% beeswax, but I figured there was no point in using more than I had to.

The Hyacinth and the Nebraska Sunflowers, both available at Scent Works, are great in soy candles.

I have to admit I haven't thought to check at Whole Foods. They're quite a bit pricier than my usual grocery store, which is a Texas chain, but definitely worth looking into. The cheapest price I've found online is nearly 4 times what I used to pay, and that's before adding shipping costs. Thanks for the tip.

Aroma Haven's Rooibos Tea and Tibetan Black Tea are both very nice.

Wesson stopped distributing sunflower oil, and that's the only brand I was ever able to find here. I love sunflower for cooking and for soap and was really ticked off when it disappeared from the grocery shelves. I've read posts from people who said they contacted Wesson and were told there was no demand for sunflower oil. I find that odd, since it certainly seemed to move when it was in the store. The only safflower oil I've seen here is LouAna brand, $2.48 for 24 ounces compared to the $1.99 or less I used to pay for 48 ounces of sunflower. I guess I should consider myself lucky if that little bottle of safflower is $3.69 elsewhere ... It doesn't feel lucky, though, you know?

I use 96% EZ Sooy and 4% beeswax. I tried 3% beeswax and that didn't give me the results I wanted. I have no idea if the beeswax helps with throw; I've never done a comparison with and without. I use it to get smooth tops.

I have very limited experience with the close-outs, but since there haven't been any other replies, I'll chip in what little I know. The close-out Pumpkin Pie was great in soap and in soy, but it's no longer on the list. The close-out Heather smells pretty nice in the bottle, but it didn't throw for me in soy and was no good at all in soap (riced and didn't hold its scent). The Spicy Vanilla and the Woodland Orange Spice both smell very good in the bottle. I thought Grandpa's Garden smelled interesting; my fella didn't care for it. I just sniffed these last three the other day when I picked up an order at the BCS showroom; if I'd known they were going to be running this sale, I'd have paid more attention to the other close-out FOs.

I've used up to 1 teaspoon TD to a pound of oils with no problem, although I usually use a bit less than that. I'm surprised to hear that 1/4 teaspoon per pound even makes a noticeable difference.

Thanks, Carrie. I definitely plan to sniff the Leather and the Bluebonnet while I'm there. Roxanne

I agree, very nice label and not too busy. I love the S in that font -- it looks like a swan!

I've never used a 50% lye solution, but with a 45% solution (45% lye, 55% water), I have no problem at all getting the lye dissolved. The reason for using more water is to slow down the process. If you're using fragrances that accelerate, or if you want to do some fancy swirling, slowing things down can be good. If you're using non-spice EOs or an FO that you know behaves itself, stronger lye solutions are not a problem, even with a formula that's high in solid fats. I'm generally more comfortable with a 36 to 38% solution, but I do use 45% for my peppermint soap.

I live in Austin, and I love the smell of Texas cedar wood. It's the pollen that causes allergies, not the wood. Jakalex, thank you for the reviews. I'm going to be in Houston in a couple of days, and I hope to stop by Texas Candle Supply. Do you have any follow-ups on the other fragrances since you posted the initial review?