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Hillary

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Everything posted by Hillary

  1. Well, I poured some candles this afternoon and I used 9% fo. I made sure to mix it well. The cold throw is pretty good already so I think I'll have it this time. I can't wait to burn one. Now I'll just cross my fingers that I can still use the wick I had settled on.
  2. Kahlua, that sounds awsome. I might have to start my wishlist.
  3. Shafferbuns-I know your right about the testing. Testing, testing, testing. But do you think there are additives that would work against each other? I've only used pre-blended waxes and I'm not familair with the additives. But I'm glad to hear that it's a doable thing.
  4. Hi Merideth, Thanks. I used 6% fo, and yes, I could totally have candle nose. I've done a couple batches and they cured for several days at least. I hope it isn't the wick because I don't want to do the testing again:sad2: . I added the fo at 190. I was kind of guessing on that one. I poured at 150, but I don't think pouring should have anything to do with the throw, would it? If there is anything else I'm missing feel free to let me know. Mixing the two I had no wet spots, a great burn, and a nice creamy smooth top. I just need that throw to pick up. I feel like I'm so close to a great combo....sooo close.......:rolleyes2
  5. Nature's Garden Fresh Linen........love it!
  6. I was thinking about placing an order with Save On Scents, but I haven't heard much mention of them on here. Anyone have any experience with them, good or bad? The selection is HUGE! The prices are good too, maybe too good..........I'm kind of curious about the concentrated FO's. It's fun to look at least. Any opinions on them?
  7. I've been mixing NG joywax with j50. I'm kind of guessing on the temps for adding fo and pouring. Sort of finding the middle ground between the two. The thing is, on the candles I've poured so far, the throw is pretty weak, hot and cold. I think since I'm mixing I should probably increase the fo% because of the j50, but I wondered if there is anything in the additives of the waxes that might cause a weaker throw when they are combined. I just love the way they work together but the two fo's I've tried so far are fairly mild to start with so now I'm not sure which way to go. Is there anything about mixing the waxes that would affect the throw?
  8. I have been looking for a large Metro jar and I wondered if anyone has seen them or knows where I might look. All I can find is 8 and 12 oz. But I saw a candle display at a local store like 6 months ago and the jars were a larger size Metro jar, maybe 16 or 18 oz.? At the time I wasn't paying much attention, but now I'd like to find them. Any ideas? TIA, Hillary
  9. I use a formula to determine the price of my jars. I start with the jar cost and then add the price per oz of wax and fo for that jar. I add a misc. charge to cover lables, wicks, and color. Finally, in the end, I add a very small charge to each candle to cover my shipping expenses. Since each candle will have different fo and jars, and shipping costs will vary, I use a estimated cost for those figures. But the whole thing is now in a format so that I just plug in the jar cost and how many oz it holds and I have a price. And still after what sounds very complicated, it generally comes out to around $1.00 per oz, maybe a bit more sometimes. The formula tells me what the price SHOULD be, but nothing is set in stone.
  10. The only reason I decided to go to $ 9 on my 12 Oz Metro is because I can make up for it on my 6 oz jar. The 6 oz cost next to nothing to make ( the jars were a steal ), so I try to make up the difference there. I think it's important not to cheat yourself. My 12 oz may have a low price but my 6 oz is the one that sells really well. So that's where I look for the profits.
  11. Hi Cindy, I also sell a 12oz metro and I think your math is right on. I have to charge a little less, $9.00, due to the compition but my prices usually work out to around a dollar per oz - if I stick to my formula. I adjust based on competion and other factors. I haven't been selling very long though, so I'll be interested to hear the other response on this one.
  12. That's interesting about the Jungle Love scent. It's probably just me but oob the first thought I had was "baby asprin". I haven't poured it yet but after reading your take on it I'll give it another try.
  13. Thank you all for your input. I should know as a consumer myself, I wasn't happy with what they sent me, why should I think it's okay to pass that off onto my own customers! Doesn't seem right at all when I think of it that way. As for the postage- the suppliers website says if they are at fault they'll pay postage. They very obviously sent me 'beverage warmers' not candle warmers as it is clearly stated on the product I recieved. So I should be good on that one. In the meantime I came across candle warmers that are labled as candle warmers right on the product. So I have that covered now too. Thanks for feedback!
  14. It says 24 watts on the underside. I've never used a mug warmer or a candle warmer for that matter, so this is why I need the input. Also, like I said, it clearly states "beverage warmer" on the underside and I just wonder if customers will take issue with that.
  15. I need advice from anyone who'd like to chime in here....I ordered candle warmers from a popular supplier. I thought it might attract a few new customers that are nervous about flames. Anyway, the candle warmers came today and I opened them, tried one, it seemed to work fine, then when I really took a good look at I saw on the underside that it says it's a 'beverage warmer'. I thought that was very uncool of this supplier to market this thing as a candle warmer and then send me a beverage warmer. 6 beverage warmers to be exact. I guess that's why I got a good price. 1 - Is a beverage warmer safe? Does anyone know the difference in temp between the two? Would it get too hot? 2 - Is it ethical for me to re-sell these as candle warmers at this point? Or should I return them to the supplier? Any advice is welcome here.
  16. I guess it would also depend on your production. I'm still pretty limited in what I'm making. So for me a couple of suppliers is fine for now. But I suppose eventually it would pay to have more resources even if it does require more ordering and shipping charges.
  17. That's good to hear. It wouldn't be the first time I've been wrong.
  18. I was just curious about how everyone orders FO's. Do you try to stick with just one or two suppliers for FO's or do you order from as many suppliers as you need to to get your favorites. I tend to stick with NG myself. I've been really pleased with almost every FO I've tried from there.
  19. I had the same problem with two citrus scents in my soy blend. I thought there was an electrical fire somewhere in the house the first time I noticed it. That one was an aromatherapy scent. I guess it was energizing. The other was an orange cream. I was told by the supplier that the vanilla is supposed to cover the 'fuel like' scent. But when I gave the same candle to several other people ( friends, not customers ) to test they said they couldn't detect that odor. So I don't know what that means. I just try to make sure that any citrus scents I choose have a high flash point, and I keep my fingers crossed. If you find a solution please share!
  20. I've been using a 6 oz frosted votive with a soy blend and I think they look really nice. The frosting doesn't really hide wet spots, but it does sort of distract the eye from flaws in the wax. I have also heard that frosted glass is weaker, but I haven't yet broken one. I've broken of few of the others though.
  21. I also just recieved my 15 oz bulb jar from the jar store but I havn't started testing yet. I was planning to start with an HTP 83. I use HTP 73 with several other slightly smaller jars and they work well for me. The wax I use is Joywax from NG. I haven't tried the hemp wicks. I'd be ineterested to hear what works for you. I love the bulb jars.
  22. Firehouse- Great link, thanks. That's just what I was looking for. Molly-'idiot burn' that's perfect. LOL
  23. I have a newbie question for you. Is there a 'proper' way to test for burn time on a candle? I know in testing for general performance I like to check a variety of conditions. ex- I burn for a short period then longer, or near a draft, without trimming wick, etc. I try to imagine what the customer will do. However, I don't know how I should test for the length of burn time. Would I just log the time I burn each time, or should the candle stay lighted for say 2hr periods each time?
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