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You could possibly gauge them like guitar strings if we're not sure. Meaning the one that is more flexible is the smaller / lighter one. Just a thought.

Hi @Laura C, you are very welcome. I've learned quite a bit from here. I may as well pass it forward with whatever I can if it helps.

Hi all, If anyone is interested, I have attached a couple of pics of a spreadsheet that I created for wicks. The pics shown are sorted by the Yield and then by the ROC for those who like to reference both. With that being said… not all wicks / wax / FO’s are created equal. Testing is key as everyone knows. I have found, in my testing, that the ECO’s and CD’s, even though in some cases they are the same yield and close to the same ROC, do not burn at all the same as each other. They are constructed differently, which is why I just don't go by the next number up or down. The data shown is compiled from Wicks Unlimited and Wick It. I am not sure what wax was used to gather this data other than Wick It where it is noted that they tested the Premiers (WI) with a 140 MP wax. I find, with my testing, that the HTP’s and CD/CDN’s are very similar, have the same burn quality, fit nicely with each other and take care of the in-between sizes. Example: The next size up from the CD12 is the CD14. You can use CDN’s to tweak, but you also now have the HTP93, 104 and 105 to consider regarding the Yield and ROC to find that sweet spot. The wicks listed are CD/CDN (Stabilo), HTP, ECO, Premier (WI), LX, CottonWood (CW), RRD and Helix. I have been lucky with CD/CDN, HTP, Premier and ECO with 464 and 6006 with certain FO’s. If this is too much to look at, I attached a trimmed down version of this on another topic. It just includes CD/CDN, HTP, Premier and ECO. https://www.craftserver.com/topic/117402-cd-vs-htp-size/ I have been using this, in my testing, as a reference point and it has helped me. Hope it can help someone else. Melt ‘Em if you Got ‘Em. Yield ROC

Hey Forrest, As far as the wax being used, I believe on Wick It, it stated that the data was used with a 140 MP wax (whichever one that is) and the Premiers. For CD, HTP and ECO it didn't state... or I missed it... which is quite possible. I have printouts at home sorted seperately by Yield, ROC and melt pool also. I just uploaded this particular one because I have been relying a bit more on the yield (heat) in what I'm doing. But.. at the same time, trying to find a balance with the ROC. For example, I have a really good throw with 6006 with an HTP83 with the oil I'm using, however, the flame is pretty small... about a 1/2" after a couple of hours.... almost drowning. Looks pretty weak. So what I have found is, if I use roughly the same size / heat (yield) wick with a bit more of consumption, it will not drown out, or become too big. A balancing act so to speak. So I opted for a CDN8. It is working great so far. I tested 2 of the same size containers in a row with the same results. Burning for 3 to 4 hours per burn. And I power burned this weekend as well... 12 hours straight on Saturday and 10 hours on Sunday. I was originally sold on the HTP83 but the small flame was slightly frustrating me. With the CDN8, it's around 3/4" to 1" at times. I also have another spreadsheet with some other wicks to throw in the mix. I'll post this week in the Wax & Wick test category if anyone is interested.

I made a couple of spreadsheets and sorted them by Yield and ROC. The pic shown here is for CD, HTP, ECO and Premier and sorted by the yield. The stats are from Wicks Unlimited and Wick It.

Long story short, I ordered HTP83's from Lonestar, did quite a bit of testing and discovered they were actually HTP73's labeled as 83. I contacted Lonestar and they corrected the issue. They sent me the correct size (83).... I tested to make sure, and then sent back the 73's. They provided a return label and there was no extra cost to me.

I hear ya. Try another small batch, if you have more, with 6% or 7%. You might find it to soot less. Also, the added dye will/may play a part with the wicking. I haven't dyed mine yet... But I can only assume once / IF I do, that will possibly alter the results I had. Or rather, I wouldn't be surprised if it did change the prior results. I think it would be like adding another type of fuel to the fire.

I more or less have had the same issue with ECO. Burns well for the first couple of hours with a 3/4" to 1" flame with a little bit of poofs of soot here and there but nothing constant. Then after the 3 or 4 hour mark it starts to poof even more. Also had the issue with some scents where there's not much of a HT. I am using 6% and 7%. With that being said, I have a better outcome with HTP, CDN and Premier. Not as hot to the jar or sooty and give a really good throw. I've tested my 6006, cured for 2 weeks minimum and also for much longer than 3 or 4 months. My testers are 3" diameter status jars / tumblers and 12 oz canning jars which are close to 2 3/4" diameter. The HTP's actually trim pretty well for the size I'm using. Flames are a tad small after a couple hours in the canning jar.... between 1/2" and 3/4". But throws really well. It also all depends on the oil / scent that's being used. Then there's that... So.... yeah.

This message popped up on one of my apps today. Seems somewhat apropos to this discussion. "The secret of success is the consistency of purpose."

And I guess that's not a bad place to be at the end of the day. 😁

Ha! I can see that happening. 😀

This is where I'm at now. It's almost becoming (if not already) an unhealthy obsession. Just when I think I got it and I'm there, another wrench gets thrown into the mix.

Absolutely. Test it the way it is going to ultimately be made. Once you add FO and dye, your test results will / may be different from the plain tested wax.

Yup. The most efficient way (depending on the wax) is to pour the containers without a wick, let it cure, then use a skewer to poke a hole and insert a wick without the tab. If the wick is the incorrect size/type, you can pull that out with a needlenose pliers, let candle cool (I wait till next day), then poke another hole and insert the next wick. And so on till you find a good/great combination.

Ahh... Gotcha. Good to know. Thank you much!

Speaking of humidity.... I live in Massachusetts where we get some humid months. With that being said, I have 2 sealed cases of 464, same lot. I was originally thinking, before the humid months start, of melting at least one case and pour it into aluminum pans, then once solid, place them in gallon ziploc bags or something to that effect to avoid the possibility of moist flakes. I'm thinking as long as the cases remain sealed they might be fine, but once opened and exposed to the elements, the moisture will do its thing. Am I overthinking this?

Thanks! @Karen M

That's still pretty big. I'm using a CDN8/CD8 in 464 in a 8 oz square mason. You may want to try a CD6 or HTP83 if you have it.

If you're talking about a jelly jar... you are waaay over wicked.

Ha! Thanks!

Thanks Belinda! Looks like I have a lot to try 😄 As far as blending... would you do a 50/50? Apple / Pie Crust?

I had no idea that there was a pie crust FO. Ha! I might have to look into that. I think I'm going to get a sample of the scents you all suggested and try them in 464 and 6006 and see how it goes. Thanks!

Thank you @GailC !

Yup. I totally get that. I guess I was thinking / hoping / assuming that the Mac Apple would smell something like a "Jolly Rancher" type green apple or some packaged, processed apple cereal or something like that. At one point, now that I'm thinking of it, the scent kinda smelled like that Apple Pucker liqueur when I got closer to it. I'll check out Keystone and RE as well. Thanks

Hi all, I have read here, where Mac Apple is a winner for most people's noses. Where it's probably the best smelling, HT throwing apple FO etc. Maybe it's just me... but... I don't think it smells like apple. To me it smells artificial or chemically or something like that... and not like apple. I'm testing it in 464 at 6% cured for about 20 days. I'm also testing Hot Apple Pie. Same thing. Does not smell like an apple pie to me. Both are from CS. However, the Pumpkin Souffle I have smells great... almost like a burning pumpkin smell to me as well as the blueberry cobbler smells like blueberry something, the Peppermint Eucalyptus smells like the name says and the Red Hot Cinnamon smells like the Hot Tamales / Fire Ball candy I used to have as a kid... this has to be the most authentic scent so far that I have encountered. But the apple scents.... not so much apple. Meaning if I walked into a room and you asked me what fruit it smells like, I would have to really think about it. I know I'm probably grasping at straws here... but am I expecting too much of these scents / flavors to smell like the real deal? Can anyone suggest a close to authentic apple baked good? Thanks, steve