Jump to content

Crafty1_AJ

Registered Users Plus
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    3,089

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    24

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Crafty1_AJ

  1. Crafty1_AJ
    Pouring cool helps with the finished candle's appearance. I watch for the soy wax to start getting a light "film" around the edges, indicating it's starting to set up. I pour then, just as it's starting to get a bit slushy, and the candles usually look pretty good when they cool. However, I'm one of those weirdo chandlers who thinks the frosting and rough, rustic texture of soy wax looks cool.
  2. Crafty1_AJ
    Bummer! Sorry I have no experience with this wax, so I can't really help. Hopefully someone will jump in here and help you soon! What fragrances are you using? Wondering if you're using a heavy fo that is difficult to wick, or something notoriously difficult to wick such as clove? Also, what level of dye are you adding? Wondering if too much dye could be clogging the wick. Just stabbing at some troubleshooting suggestions here. Otherwise, the only guess I could suggest would be to try a different wick such as HTP, cotton, RRD or LX. Hope you get this squared away soon.
  3. Crafty1_AJ
    Shoot, I just give a very brief spiel about myself and my biz, then start passing around candles and soaps to sniff. I give people pen and paper, and they jot down which kinds they like 'cos they tend to forget. LOL Then they just snag what they want and BUY! Woohoo! Then the hostess serves refreshments. Best of luck -- hope you sell your brains out!
  4. Crafty1_AJ
    Yes, I usually get more of the rusty color with my recipe too!
  5. Crafty1_AJ
    I adore peppermint eo soaps in the summer. Totally refreshing when you're all hot and sticky and sweaty and yucky! LOL
  6. Crafty1_AJ
    Thanks! Actually I find red oxide to be more of a rusty colored red. Earthy, like bricks ... know what I mean? If you want more of a primary kinda red, I'd recommend a liquid dye. HTH!
  7. Crafty1_AJ
    Ooooh, J makes a rockin' jar of scrub! Now you've got me wanting to go hop in the shower and scrub up w/ your coffee scrub!!
  8. Crafty1_AJ
    Crisco is hydrogenated soy oil, but I agree -- it usually has other oil(s) mixed in. I use the liquid soy oil, and it does say "Vegetable Oil" on the front label, so as was posted earlier here, check the back label to be sure it's 100% soybean oil!
  9. Crafty1_AJ
    Thanks! Actually I hadn't cleaned them up yet. It looks like I was drunk when I cut the bars -- and I don't even like booze so I don't drink. LOL
  10. Crafty1_AJ
    This is a very broad, sweeping generalization. But IN GENERAL, scents that are weak oob aren't very strong in wax. There are exceptions, but I've found that weak oob is USUALLY weak in wax. Strong oob might be strong in wax, and it might not. Just depends on the wax, fo, etc. As the others said, you have to test. Good luck with your candlemaking! It's so fun!
  11. Crafty1_AJ
    Oooh, me likey! Gimmesummadat!
  12. Crafty1_AJ
    Fantabulous, as usual, B! I'll take one of each, please. LOL
  13. Crafty1_AJ
    If the ingredients in all three lotions are exactly the same except for fragrance, then you could put 3 different lotions in one bag and just use one label of ingredients -- that would cover all three scents, because fragrance is just listed as "fragrance." However, if you bag 3 different lotions together and each has a different recipe, you'd need three separate labels. Such as "Lilac Lotion: water, olive oil.... etc. And Vanilla Lotion: water, sunflower oil, etc."
  14. Crafty1_AJ
    Yep, they look normal to me, Steph. Embrace the frosting! LOL Congrats -- they look positively yummy!
  15. Crafty1_AJ
    My experience agrees with Geek.
  16. Crafty1_AJ
    I'm testing patchouli scents in soy candles and a citrus/herbal scent in paraffin. Then I plan to make some sandalwood soap and lilac soap (separately, not mixed together! LOL) Also need to make a batch of unscented lotion.
  17. Crafty1_AJ
    Pomace is just a lower grade of olive oil. The first pressing yields extra virgin olive oil. Then the second is a grade lower. After all those pressings, then they use solvents to extract the remaining oil, which is pomace grade. It's not necessarily bad for soaping, but it wouldn't be my first choice of olive oil for cooking with. That's my understanding from the research I've done; however, my memory may be a bit rusty...I ain't getting any younger, yunno. LOL
  18. Crafty1_AJ
    Oh, thanks, Sheila!
  19. Crafty1_AJ
    Just bring the soap to a nice, medium-thick trace. Pour and make sure that first layer's set up enough to bear the weight of the next layer. Just carefully and gently pour the next layer right on top! Easy peasy.
  20. Crafty1_AJ
    I've used Dragon Lily Essential's liquid red in Cp for red swirls. They look kinda orange here, but actually they were redder. LOL
  21. Crafty1_AJ
    I like Sandalwood Vanilla or Enchanted Oak. They are vanillas, but not foody vanillas.
  22. Crafty1_AJ
    I used to be a typesetter, and when we needed to squeeze text to the max, we'd use Helvetica Narrow (or Arial Narrow). They really allow you to squeeze the most into a small space. Ask me how I know. LOL If you don't have those fonts, then Times (aka Times New Roman) is fairly compressed as well. HTH
  23. Crafty1_AJ
    You could put a hang tag around the neck that lists ingredients. Or sell the lotion in a bag that has a label on it.
  24. Crafty1_AJ
    I agree that the hobby store fo's are too expensive. I wasn't really recommending to her that she keep using them; I was just saying I got decent throw from them. But in containers, not pillars. I think that one of the reasons containers throw better is that they are enclosed. Lids and jars seem to keep the scent in better. I also think it's because typically, many of your container waxes are designed with scent throw specifically in mind so they give good scent. JMO, FWIW!
  25. Crafty1_AJ
    A little almond meal (finely ground almonds) might do the trick!
×
×
  • Create New...