MeAndMyPuppyDog

Thanks for the tip. I don't know what LX 8 wick is. Is there a way to cross reference that with a standard Atkins & Pierce number? Thanks, Pete

I got a floater that is about 1.75" burn area... about 3/4"-1" thick. What would you think is a good wick for this? We're burning 142F M.P. Para w/ Vybar... Let's hear your thoughts, Pete

Those look like Pourette molds to me.

Anyone know how I can take a candle, say 1.5" wide and get a 7/8" peg (so it fits in a standard holder) on the bottom. Do any of the supply houses have any kind of gizmo? Thanks!

It's another "fad" -- however, this time around I don't think it is a silly as dipping stuffed bears. The WoodWick idea is a good one... I don't really see it being all that long before somebody comes up with a slightly differnt spin on it (say, a round wick instead of a flat reed)... Either way... I can see making a buck or two on it.

Yes, this is psycologial. Like the customers that would pick up a blue votive that I custom make for a customer with vanilla oil... the other customers would pick it up, smell it, and say, "Ah...Blueberry, my favorite". If you know the blend is right... you're good.

I would reply to this thread, but I have to go make a couple wax-dipped gas cans. :rolleyes2

Don't use me as a guide. I think the wax-dipped bears are moronic, at best. But that's my opinion. Stick with making new an innovate (or new spins on old ideas) candles. Candles that people burn -- so that they keep buying them.

I have heard it, and it is myth. All you can do is risk introducing moisture to the candles when/if any ice crystals melt.

From CA to VA... shipping not gonna kill ya?

Those are some very nice candles... I'd like to hear from anyone that carves with straight 145. I've only been carving for 18 years... so I'm not as experienced as Bruce. However I'd think that straight 145 would be far too brittle and cool far too quickly to allow even the fastest carver time to cut and curl/twist. Maybe if the room were 120*F... Also, those colors look very opaque, so I would have to guess that there is something else there. I know candle makers are usually not willing to "share" how things are made. And I do respect that, however, this is a "Candle Making Discussions" forum. Best blend is 130-135 with 5% Micro... and any other little additives that might help your cause. My 2 pennies.

No Micro or anything else to keep it pliable? That's interesting. I'd like to see pics.

Bruce are you saying that you carve with straight para? You didn't say that I hope...

I have to call a few places and see what I can find out. The oil-based stuff was the way to go. But it smelled to high-heck. Have to dig around a bit.

Lots of ways to brush on a gloss. Modge Podge (sp?) and a few others come to mind. I'm looking for a dip. And one that holds up.

Janette, When you say it didn't adhere well do you mean you would get "blank" spots where it wouldn't stick? Was this with scented or unscented? Pete

Janette, Yes! The "milky" stuff is exactly the one I am trying to avoid. And yes, that "skin" that it forms is the problem. Do you remember if it was heat-actived or if you could cold dip it? (the milky one)? Thanks.

Anyone here use the oil-based (not water based) candle glaze (dip)? Today it seems all that's out there is the modified floor polish (that's what the white milky dip is). I've found that the candle has to be on the warm side for it to work well... What do you use? Thanks, Pete

Remember, dye starts as a powder. So when you see a "solid" "cube" type dye, that is a powder that is blended with wax. So you're not getting "pure" dye. But you are getting an easy way to measure. Liquid dye (mostly) is the same story, it is a powder that is suspended in a "carrier" that is then blended. Powder dye, provided it is not cut with anything is the real-deal. Basic quality can be found @ pourette, and then the dye houses (google) can turn you on to the hard-core stuff. I can tell you that Pourette is just fine for 90% of the applications you can think of. Just remember that too much dye *can* clog a wick... so testing isn't always a bad idea with dark dark colors. Good Luck.

What happens if the person uses too much and then ends up clogging wicks? If you aresn't getting a black enough candle in soy you'll need to find better dye. Same goes for para. Read up on bases used for black. There are violet bases, red bases, etc. There is no TRUE black. It is simply a concentrated form of another color where the concentration of color is so close that it turns black. The more concentrated, the less you need, the darker the candle. Beware. Good dye (and I mean really good dye (even I don't use it the really good stuff) is super expensive. I stick with the cheaper powders and have pretty good results. Good Luck.

Sorry, sounds like I stepped on your toes -- perhaps you buy and resell oils or something? As far a newbie starting out... I would always recommend para over soy. Reason being that there is simply A LOT more information out there on how to work with it, etc. Also, there is A TON of mis-information out there when it comes to soy. I just wouldn't want to see somebody get ripped off with the "cost more so it's better" line. It simply isn't the truth. If you have 3 middle men, a $6 oil is now $24. If you have. only 1 middle man it's $12. So you're saying the oil for $24 is better than the one for $12. Actually the opposite is probably true because as it passes hands it is probably cut with all kinds of carriers and junk.

Not always the case. I buy a Strawberry oil for $6.10 a pound that is hands-down the best strawberry around. I've smelled oils for twice the price and beyond that weren't half as good. Buy what you *know* is good and try to cut out as many middle-men as you can. You'll get the best value and learn the most!

It is Tuesday.

FYI: I call them on Monday and left a message... it's only Tuesday morning... let's see if I get a call back.

I'm curious as to the air-bubble factor with the pour type one they sell... I'm also wondering if at the price they sell it for if it is actual silicone or just a blend of something... You know anything else about them? Pete