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MeAndMyPuppyDog

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Everything posted by MeAndMyPuppyDog

  1. Can I make a suggestion. No micro. No "White" (Tit. White) Hint: Clear Crystals
  2. I would *LOVE* for you to be right... I could save a ton of time, and leakage if you are... We'll see... I'll be putting one in the regular production line and turn it a few times... we'll see from there... Pete
  3. Out of Poly, like they are, I think you're right. BUT -- Out of silicone... that might be a winner... I'm curious...
  4. Another down-side I cam up with is that IF the tube does NOT sit ALL THE WAY down into the rubber, you'll get a "head" on the top of the candle... naturally, this would add more work instead of eliminating it... so the real key to these things is going to be how well do they seal around the perimeter of the tube and how far down do they "seat"... I'll let ya know... Pete
  5. I'm thinking the no-wicking deal is nice, just pull and go. We'll see how they hold up to: A) Changes in color Use in general
  6. These are a great deal... http://www.thebestcandles.com/metal-with-rolled-edges-p-1623.html
  7. They are flat, they claim they don't leak. I'll be tinkerin' with one shortly.
  8. http://www.moldman.com/products/poly_base.html When used with these: http://www.moldman.com/products/aluminum_tubes.html Curious.
  9. Not powder... looks like they're a middle-man for liquid dye and some sort of "system" Blah. Powder. The raw deal darnit!
  10. Barnloft makes pillars... I don't get the purpose of that link?
  11. Ok. I never thought I'd say this, but the powdered dye I've been working with from Pourette in the red color is crap. And I mean crap. Add too much and you get a brown instead of a burgundy -- add less and cut with black and you get a color I call crap. Add too little and you get a nasty pink that isn't close to bright red. Add the right amount and you get a funky sort of brownish/red. In the end... crap. Soooooooooooooooo... what I'm asking is: Where can I find some really good true (primary color) red powdered dye? Thanks, Pete
  12. I'll look into the dropper idea... seems that it wouldn't be tough to do as that small amount of wax is going to cool quickly... any other ideas?
  13. I have some floating daisy molds... I'm curious as to how folks here pour the little center in yellow and the outside in white. Specifically, what do you use to pour the tiny bit of yellow in the center to avoid "splash" on to the other part of the mold that you want to keep white?
  14. So you just mixed and poured... interesting. Any air bubble issues?
  15. bac, You running MoldMax with or without a degasser? Pete
  16. Fair enough. I was on their site... I couldn't find anything that was cheaper than CW... but I guess customer service has value. I'm a numbers guy. I need to make candles as cost effectively as I can...
  17. Bruce, What I see, almost everything on that site is either candlewic or pourette. seamless molds, wicks, wick pins, steel molds, almost everything... I guess I can't poop where I eat, so for purposes of this forum... Peak Rules!!!! WoooHooo. :rolleyes2
  18. I say YES. Sell it online, sell it at middle-man prices (like 90% of what you see on most links posted here) only you're not the middleman! Profit.
  19. I could be wrong, but it looks like Peak is a middleman -- they buy their stuff from Pourette and Candlewic (Binder) and then resell it. Why would you want to pay the middleman when you could buy the same thing from the source for less money?
  20. Questions... 1) What's a paint bowl? 2) How long do you leave it on the cake-rack. When I leave them on the cake rack, I get drips that harden and then candle doesn't stand straight. What's the secret.
  21. I'm curious as to how you folks deal with candle glaze in the 5 gal. pail... do you cut it with water? Use it as is? How do you let the run-off drip back into the pail? Let's talk! Pete
  22. Well it looks like we've got the same operation then! (minus the helper). Isn't it fun scraping the blade and setting things up so the candle doesn't "walk" on the metal plate?
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