enchantedflorest

LOL you are all to funny nice replies -- I think maybe just maybe some are being serious and others are not IMO LOL. I to see the coolness in hemp - many different usefull uses. I wouldnt worry soo much on the naturalness of the candle. I try to be naturlist but somethings are what they are. IMO I prefer soy but I am positive homeade well made candles are healthy no matter what they are based. Better then buying from Walmart.

maybe they dont look as good in person -- they do look pretty and colorful on the site and CHEEEEEEEAP !

I've to heard heat gun works great --- if you already got rid of yours maybe try a hair dryer.

yep - I burned all of them allll the way to dead before even trying to make a choice. From the start I was pulling for the 12. Then thought for sure only the 16. But then the 12 and 14 cleaned up any large hang ups when they reached the mid to bottom. The 16 did seem torchy to me towards the end and I was thinking a safer candle is better then one that looks good when its dead to the customer anyway? IMO, thats why I need input- I'm fairly new to the candle world for selling. Thank you so much for the post --- if anyone wants keep em coming

Sorry to repost -- I meant this to be in the veg section. I just test wicked a jar I'll be using. It was simple to wick but not perfect. It is a 8oz metro jar 2.5 diameter 3.5 height. I tried CD 10, 12, 14 16. 10 way to small but 12, 14 and 16 were all close. 16 did the best as far as very little wax left on sides (a couple small rain droplets here and there). But the 12 and 14 did alright as well. there is no hang up to speak of but there is residue and a few more rainy looking spots. Any input on just how clean you all like your glass to be when burning is done and candle is dead. I would really like to use the 14 over the 16 since the bigger wick got rather bent over and heavy headed by the end of the last burnings. Any input pleeeaaasse

I just test wicked a jar I'll be using. It was simple to wick but not perfect. It is a 8oz metro jar 2.5 diameter 3.5 height. I tried CD 10, 12, 14 16. 10 way to small but 12, 14 and 16 were all close. 16 did the best as far as very little wax left on sides (a couple small rain droplets here and there). But the 12 and 14 did alright as well. there is no hang up to speak of but there is residue and a few more rainy looking spots. Any input on just how clean you all like your glass to be when burning is done and candle is dead. I would really like to use the 14 over the 16 since the bigger wick got rather bent over and heavy headed by the end of the last burnings. Any input pleeeaaasse

Im not sure if I should of posted this in the business side of things or not. I thought on the veg section since it only applies to veg waxers. Anywho sorry if its in the wrong spot. Ive been reading alot of slams about Beanpod and other candle makers who use wording "from soy" "with soy") etc. My ? --- I make soy cont. candles. I use El classic 100% soy. the only thing I add is color and FO (depending on color 1/4tsp UV protector per LB). What would be good wording so I dont get mixed up with the people that actually add other waxes and misc ingrediants. I thought to stay legal since I add color/FO/UV I had to say made from 100% soy wax. Any input would be awesome. If I havent mentioned so far thank you all so much for your time and input. I think its very nice and inviting to be able to kick ideas around with fellow candle makers instead of everyone to hoard the info for themselves. This is a great group of people.

Im not much help as I am a pretty new candle maker, but with that said so far I like EL cont. soy. It came highly recommened by my supplier to be mixed with her FO and such. I have noticed though the line after burning and some other things but so far it has not steered me away from the wax. HTH

So far I have only been testing without FO or color to find which wick burns best for base wick. I will be adding FO and color today during my daughters nap and re test burning - I know soy (and all well made candles) are supposed to have no hang up so I didnt want to sell the CD8's with the driplets on the side if it would affect peoples opinion of soy and home/hand made candles. Thanks your inputs and please keep em coming.

Forgot to add the 1st attach. is the CD10 2nd attach is the CD8.

All right I hope I put these in the right spot. I know these are candle pics so maybe they should go in the candle gallery but the post is more of a ? then a look at my candles. So here goes. As many of you I'm sure are aware I'm new to candle making. Below are 2 pics of my 4oz Emma jars. One is wicked with CD8 other with CD10. (I tested CD6, 8, 10, 12, 14) Im at a loss on decision and was hoping for some input. The CD8 burns well, leaves very little "hangup" more like small droplets of wax left on jar. Good point --- never needs wick trimming and burns a little slower. CD10 burns a tad quicker, leaves jar pretty much spot free BUT does need wick trimmings about every to everyother lighting. I know many candle buyers do not cut wicks... naughty!! Any input please

Those jars are what first made me want to try making candles. I love them. However once I started making candles I realized those jars are wayyyy to advanced for me. For now I'll stick with the round ones but cant wait till I can go to that Any pointers you'd want to share. Both of my suppliers offer them (jar store and candle cocoon) and I cant wait to try them. You made them look fantastic good job !!!

Thank you so much for responding. I have read and read all the posts on here and everywhere and it seems so many people hype the HTPs. I was hoping for your response, I am just finally getting to the point I feel I have a hold of this a bit and didnt really want to change wick types but would if they required less trimming for my customers who will probably never trim a wick - lol. Thanks again.

I have successfully found a base wick for my 4 oz Emma jars. I tested CD 10, 12, 14. 10 is about 25 hrs of burn, no hang up and very small if no mushrooms/leaves. However, I was thinking (bad idea) doesnt HTPs and some others claim to "self trim". The Cd10 had very little trimmed off at a time but did require trimming at all lightings. So my ? should I try a different style of wick or test burn maybe a CD6 or 8. By wicking down would I increase burn time and decrease wick trimming? I use EL classic soy Emma jars are about 2in square about 2" opening and 2 1/2 in tall. Thanks in advance for any input.

I take 2 chunks (either flowers/butterlfys or stars/moons) and push them in the wax on top of the contanier. then I sprinkle them with fairy dust (cosmetic grade glitter). Theme of enchanted florest (enchanted forest). Thanks for the input, I thought maybe it was just me that thought they were cute. I like them so much more then just the plain white wax chunks. ooo and sorry I posted in the wrong spot - I'm gettin it slowly but surely.

Keep in mind I am by no means a painter. These were my trial run chunks I was testing the paint flamability. I painted a couple and IMO they were to cute, so I caked the paint on some others and tested them. I lite em on fire, put em in some candles, and dumped a little paint in a candle cont. If the paint doesnt appear flammable by then I think I'll go with it. I use EL classic soy and the paint (tested 2 kinds) is water based acrylic craft paint - one is for indoor use one for outdoor/indoor. Hope the pics turned out - 1st time hooking my camcorder to the PC. Had to share

nevermind found it --- wickit.net Thanks for the pointers and other resources.

were do you find the wick it wicks. did a search on google and didnt come up with anything.

thank you so much, I'll try that. I just did a search for the wick tabs. Im guessing the only types made are the long neck and standard - I'm guessing I already have the standard (about a 1/4 tall). Thanks again,, Ill try emailing them.

Yeah that would probably help.. are there any sites you know of for basic instruction on "how to" for tealights. Then I wouldnt have to bother all of you nice people. I guess I'll do a google search for tealight wick tabs.

I just made some tealights (mainly cause they are what I burn the most of for personal use). Supplier told me to start (no FO, no color) with CD6, 8, 10, and 12's. Made 2 of each wick.. none really worked out like I had hoped. All put themselves out between 2-3 hours but wax still remained. 1 (cd8) going the distance for whats now 4 hours. I use EL soy classic and have many wicks to choose from. Thanks ps-- I did do a search but nobody uses my wax that had previously posted. best guess CD3.

K so the research I have been doing makes it sound to me that squatty/short fat square jars are not for beginner candle makers. (currently getting max of 20-25 hrs total burn time - lots of extra wasted wax still in jars) It sounds taller round is the easiest to work with. Any input from you all ?? please. Also ... if I do go the route of just starting over from scratch with new jars .. anyone with input on The Jar Store. They seem to have a nice variety and good prices even with shipping. Thanks again to you all and I promise I'll lay off the ?s now.

Thank you both . Dont get nervous -- I was just bored with the 1st jars I started with... I've got 24 in test burning phase and there not going real well -- some are good but to frequent of wick cutting for what I would want to sell. SOooo I thought while I have nothing to make more (while there test burning) I would start to see if I have any better luck with just wax burning (no scent or color). My supplier had told me which sizes of wicks to try for no FO, no color in the tealights and Emma jars. She only gave me wick start guesses with color and FO for the 8oz cracker jars. I just want to see if its the color/FO I cant get right now or the whole process in general. Thanks again for input.

real quick ? - decided to take all your advice (thank you all) and try a new container while the others are in test burning (and failing I think for the most part). Anywho, the new jars (probably not much easier,,, dang why did I go with square jars) is about 2 1/4 in sqaure (4oz Emma jar). ? is how long to burn at a time for testing - my guess 2 or 2 1/2 hours per time. Also I tried my stab at tealights ---- that seems to be a whole nother breed . When I burn tealights in general (store bought) I burn them from light to end -- letting them put themselves out when done. Is that ok to do for testing my homeade tealights. THANK YOU ALL SOOOOO MUCH--- without your input and help I would be lost .... FYI I do do searches on this site before asking.

Thank you both Yes I do have cd20 and 22 and also I have another jar. I actually decided I will start base wicking them today and put the others on hold for now--Im sure it will take a week or so to finish the test burn anyway. Thanks again for the input.