enchantedflorest

OK.... so I have been trying to do this candlemaking thing right and maybe ... we'll see what further test burning brings but,,, tonight I started burning my 2nd batch of candles for test burning. I followed my suppliers directions and still they dont seem to be burning right. Some the wick seems it will drown soon others look almost like a strob light in a dark room the flame bounces so much. So, heres my ? and again any input would make me hopefully less crazy. I am starting at scratch. What would any of you suggest for a base wick (no FO or dye) for a 8oz cracker jar, measurements of opening are about 3 1/4 in. base is about 4in. I use EL classic soy - have a million and ten different wicks. In my candles I am burning now none of the FO is over .9oz/lb, very powerful stuff I hear and only additive besides dye is 1/4tsp UV inhib. /lb. Thanks again -- so sorry to ask so many ?s I just really want to get A good candle.

Toooooo funny chandler does have more of a "professional" feel I guess --- I think I should stick with candle maker -- I am by no means near chandler .... the candlemaster LOL

Just a silly ? A friend of mine asked today what you call yourself as a candle maker. I said a candle maker. What do you all prefer (are there anymore proffesional names).

No mainly I was just wondering about the spacing... when I started single wicking I found I am not a good eyeballer yet, hopefully you get better with time . So yeah, any tips really but mostly the placement.

Moving on up--- my personal fav FO needs to be double wicked (per my supplier). Any input on how to double wick for a begginner.

nevermind - I went back and read a couple more pgs of posts regarding priming. Im pretty sure I got and will do it for my containers. Thanks

I read post after post. Just to be clear- I have #1 square braid, #2 square braid, and HTP1212. About what length seems convienent to make - seems 12" is popular for pre-primmed/tabbed wicks. Just put wick in wax, wait couple minutes, remove and stretch?? Sound right. Thanks

yeah Im glad Im in no hurry.... I tried again, only way I got em good is by letting it cool alot then when they stuck in the cutter pushing them out with my finger. Only was able to do certain shapes but at least those ones turned out good Have to keep playing around to see if I can get the little cutsy ones.

I am TRYING to make butterly/flower/star/moon chunks with EL votive wax. My supplier said just melt wax, pour to sheet, and cut with the cut outs. To hot.. wax sticks to cutter mushy like. To cold wax stays in cutter and you have to push it out - sometimes succefully sometimes not........ UGHHH. any input.

quick ?/poll......... how long do your candles burn-total burn time. Currently Im making 8oz jars and I know my burn time is way to low (15-25 hours depenindg on FO).

I'll give you a couple to starters.... wick cd-22, FO .8oz/lb, color .025 wick PKN15, FO .8oz/lb, color .025 #2 sq. braid, FO .8oz/lb, color none and CDN18, FO .8oz/lb, color .050 quite a variation. The person I get my FO from makes it herself, it tends to run reallll potent so at a max its 1oz/lb. a norm is .8 and very fragrant FO is at .6 Thanks for any help I can get. I started reading some posts on mushrooms,... sounds all to common Also do you think maybe I need to burn them at longer intervals, currenlty 3 hour test burns. mouth is 3 1/4 base of jar is between 3 1/2 to 4in.

Sorry forgot to add.... I use EL classic soy wax.

I'll start by saying any help would be greatly appreciated. I am a verrry new candle maker. I started with 8oz cracker jars mouth diameter of 3 to 3 1/4in. I get all my supplies from a person who also makes candles (same mouth dimensions, FO, color) she had given me some "start points" to work with for each FO/wick combo. I made a few of each F/O and just started test burning. So far for the most part none of them seem to be real good Most if not all have "mushrooms?" ranging from what I would consider small to huge! Also the melt pools are way off center (maybe just the wick is way off - I hope thats an easy enough fix). And the burn time seems real low. 1 I called it quits on at around 20 hours. Another bummer.... theres still alot of wax on the walls of the jars some on just 1-2 sides other all over. HELLLLLLLLLLP please From what I see its like the wick is to big and to little all in one----ugh.

Huh, well now I'm torn. 1st I thought yep just another one of those things to buy, people use scissors all the time. But now, that sounds like an awesome idea to precut them to a 1/4 before sale. I've always wondered why when you buy a candle the wick is like a 1/2 in... just for me to cut. good idea there

Anybody else have the Clean cut wick trimmer. I just watched a little demo on it -- looks pretty cool. Any product info from other buyers?

Just wondering how many people use normal household shears to cut wicks or buy an actual wick trimmer. Just wondering cause the shears dont seem to be cutting a very even wick.

Wondering if is suggested to use UV inhibiter on wax even if you are not adding any color (I thought maybe it would prevent yellowing from the sun). Or will it make your wax yellowish. I used 1/4tsp/lb of EL wax today in a no color added candle. It didnt seem to yellow it at all. just wondering.

I love the internet for the mass amount of difference in what works. What works for one doesnt for all. I'll see what I decide, the no cleaning aspect sounds great and for the most part I am rather careful so maybe the breaking wouldnt be that big of an issue. Thanks again for all you input, glad to hear what works for all of you.

I tried to do a search on this but couldnt figure out how to search in only the natural waxes. Sorry if these have been answered a million times. How long do you have to wait to put the lids on the jars. Also when test burning for all (wicks, scent, etc) how long to cure. Thank you all again. I appreciate everyones generosity of information.

Ok you talked me out of it. I currently have 2 of the good normal pour pots I got from my supplier. Maybe if anything I'll just buy a couple more so I can just use them flip em over and bake at 200 and wipe out thing - 4 should fit in my oven and maybe give me some time between cleanings. appreciate the time for inputs. :smiley2:

I just did a search and couldnt find anything on this on this site.... I could have sworn I had read it on this site but maybe not - searching everywhere for info lately. Anywho,,, has anyone ever used glass coffee pots/decanter (the things you make household coffee in) for pour pots. I read somewhere they work great and if bought at a thrift store make it cost to have 1 pot per scent. sounds great to me. And --- if I did end up having 1 pot (coffee things or real pour pots) for each scent... the point would be to leave the remaining wax in the pot for next time. If all scents/pots were placed in the same closet would it greatly cause harm or distort all the scents. Any input would be great. Thank you all again.

Just from anyone that wondered, I think I solved the problem. Add to wax at a little higher temp and break crystals into small chunks dont leave in large sheets. Pretty obvious I suppose - just learning along the way

I searched the archives. cant find the answer. I measure in a shot glass - is it ok just rinse the glass out and wipe with papertowel then use for multiple FOs. Our can I put the glass in the dishwasher. It would be most convienent if I could just use the one glass wipe and reuse. Thanks again - and if you all get bored with basic ?s Im sooo sorry. I just really want to make the best candle I can --- you all are my teachers. Thanks again

I searched the boards for awhile last night. It sounds like maybe the wax wasnt hot enough. Also I realized while in bed last night I added .08 of FO instead of .8 - oops that could have something to do with it or not--- either way that candle doesnt go into the next stage. oops.

I use dye crystal for soy ( I use EL classic). I have made a few batches and have added color at the same temp everytime. Tonight the crystals wouldnt disolve all the way. Any idea?