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They would not send it to me. I paid, my order was received, and when I emailed to follow up on it they told me to order from The Flaming Candle. Very rude service and communications with them.

Thank you everyone, I do think it is too deep as well. I am re-testing it and wicking down.

This is 464, 5th test burn, Premier 760, 2.75 inch diameter, CS Snickerdoodle FO at 8%. 750 was underwicked, this is w/ 760. Hot throw was amazing, flame size good. This was the melt pool (just between 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch) after a 3 hour burn. Too deep? Thinking of trying 755, but don't want to kill the HT.

Yes. In some cases, I can smell the fragrance stronger after the candle is extinguished.

I've done that in the past--just waiting on UPS for more wick delivery! Thanks, Trappeur! Why would you suppose the HT is better just after the candle is extinguished?

So I am really trying to get the hang of knowing how my wick is doing from HT, meltpool, hang up, flame size, etc. Asking for yet a little more guidance as I test a few more fragrances. This is 464 in an 8 oz straight sided, 2.75 diameter, cured 2 weeks, using Premier 750, FO Cucumber, Violet and Fennel (yes, it's amazing) scented at 10% (probably too much, will back down to 8%). HT is good, pics are from 2nd 3 hour test burn. Premier 750 have proven to be a good starting point in this jar with 464. Melt pool is not too deep, hard to determine, def at or under 1/4 inch. Wick up to the 755? Keep going with 750? Also, the throw is better after the candle is extinguished...is that indicative of under/overwicking? Grateful for everyone's opinions.

Yet another question for all of you kind folks....approximately how long does it (generally, I know jars, wax, FO factor in) take for you to notice a good HT? Nearly immediate? 15 minutes? 30 minutes? 1 hour? What do you aim for? Hard to know if I've got candle nose or if my HT isn't optimal.

You are all absolutely fantastic and helpful. I am spending hours on these boards over the last few months (lurked a while before I joined) and learning SO much. I appreciate your opinions, expertise, and time!

Ok, I wicked this baby down to a Premier 735 and did another 4 hourtest burn (swapped out the old 750) and it's got a MUCH better HT and less deep meltpool, and w/ a good amount of hangup on the sides. Is it valid to change the wick out 1/3 of the way through a test burn? I put it on my candlewarmer, remelted the whole thing, yanked out the old wick. Then let it solidifiy, used a sharp tool to make a wick crater, added the 735, sealed it w/ my heat gun. Does anyone else do this?

So, I was on a FB candlemaking board (which has given me some very dangerous and/or "iffy" information as opposed to what I've learned on here). An owner of a candlemaking website (I won't say which one, but let's just say I think this person knows quite a bit) suggested that testing should be done for how consumers REALLY use candles (light for short or super long times, no wick trimming, no even melt pool, etc). This person advocated a "light and forget" approach to testing--meaning you light the candle ONCE until the flame extinguishes itself. Thoughts?

Thanks Moonshine. Do you recommend 1.25 oz pp (roughly 7.75%) for ALL fragrance oils (brands, stronger ones, etc? I am finding that most oils don't need 10%, but 6% doesn't cut it for a lot of them. I am measuring the "easy way" (e.g. 1.6 oz to 16 oz for 17.6 oz total).

I have a bunch of testers that I want to recycle and re-use the jars. What is the best way to melt the old, remaining wax and clean the jar properly? Jars are expensive! Thanks!

I'm pretty sure I didn't with this one, but occasionally I will use the heat gun. That is a great piece of information to have about the heat gun! I actually think I overscented this one at 10% and it's just affecting the HT. And I do believe I am slightly overwicked, so I am wicking down a tad.

Testing 8 oz straight sided flint jar, GB 464.

OP here. Thanks everyone for the advice--you have all made excellent points and I am enjoying the debate immensely. I agree that there are many factors that go into the FO of a candle, but to me, it's the most important part for the consumer. As chandlers, we care very much about meltpools, wick mushrooming, smooth tops, etc. What the customer cares about ultimately, it a great smelling candle and good HT. We are in charge of all the "behind the scenes" and safety stuff, but what initially gets customers to buy is your scent choices. Hopefully the "behind the scenes" stuff keeps them coming back. And sadly, I seem to have (what my business partner calls) "snob candle nose," in that the higher quality oils generally smell better to me--less powdery, artificial, more eclectic and novel. I am also discovering (through testing) that frequently the better oils require only 6-8% vs 10% for some of the lower cost ones. Because our business is still new, we are offering a mix of some of the more expensive oils (WSP, Brambleberry, etc) with some of the cheaper ones (Save on Scents, etc) to keep our costs reasonable. We definitely factor shipping cost into total cost of products, and are trying to whittle down suppliers to a few so we can order our supplies from 2-3 places. At this point in the game, unless I find a dupe that I love as much as WSP Green Clover and Aloe, it's out of our business, as ordering in bulk is just not feasible or practical yet. I'll simply enjoy the ones I have at home and not worry about "cost per candle" for my personal use. Both Aztec's and Peak's versions didn't appeal to my "snob candle nose." I'll still pose my original question (not about shipping, or quality of fragrance oils, or the best way to do business)--what do you consider on average to be your "cost per candle" for FO? You are all experienced and a relative newbie (2 years of dabbling, 6 months of serious testing) like me really appreciates your advice.

Thanks all! Adding FO at 185, but recently changed my pour pots to Pyrex glass. Wondering if the wax is cooling too soon from my presto pot? Will pay better attention to temp after moving to pour pot.

Flicker, what wax do you currently use?

Yes, after the second test burn it's looking like a good wick size so far. HT was a bit better on second burn--not sure why that would be. I will make my next tester of these with either 6 or 8. 10% is def a waste w/ this FO.

No, I didn't pay $42 dollars for it, and I won't do so. That's what WSP charges for 16 oz of it. I made a few candles w/ samples from a 2 oz size (that I had on hand back from my soaping/lotion days) and love the fragrance, but would never use it to make candles to sell--that would be costing WAY too much per unit and isn't smart business for anyone. Just looking for a dupe of Green Clover and Aloe that I love as much as WSP.

First three hour test burn. Candlescience Hazelnut Coffee at 10%, cured for 2 weeks in 464, 8 oz jar w/ 2.75 inch diameter, Premier 750 wick. Melt pool is about 1/4 inch. What do you think about wick size? The HT is so-so. For how strong the FO is OOB I was expecting a stronger HT. Is 10% FO too much? Is the mushroom too big on the wick? Thanks in advance for your help. Learning so much and having lots of fun!

Looking for some creative name ideas for these scents....Thanks in advance for your help! Velvet Sugar (neither my business partner nor I love this scent or name, but it's been a good selller) Oakmoss and Amber Kentucky Bourbon Cucumber, Violet and Fennel Snickerdoodle

Moonshine, do you use a pre-blended parasoy or do you make your own?

Moonshine, do you use a pre-blended parasoy or do you make your own?

Thanks, TallTayl. Do you know when WSP has their 35% sale? And is it on everything? I've seen their "flash sales" before.