candly Posted September 19, 2016 Share Posted September 19, 2016 Any ideas why this happens? Ideas how to prevent it? I use CB-135 with CD wicks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jcandleattic Posted September 21, 2016 Share Posted September 21, 2016 I have no idea what that can be, other than maybe some soot from the candle burn, that has settled down on the wax. I know that people say soy doesn't soot, but that is a misnomer. Anything that combusts will soot. Soy soot is usually light though, and just not as noticeable. Or is this paraffin? I'm not sure what CB-135 is - I just assume soy. Sorry I could be wrong. If it's paraffin, or a paraffin blend, my best guess would be soot that has settled on the top of the candle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trappeur Posted September 21, 2016 Share Posted September 21, 2016 Its from the wick. That used to happen to me all the time. That's why I changed to cd wicks. I had used htp wicks...I still use htp's on particular jars and they are fine, but after much testing, I found out it was the wick. Also too, too big a wick will cause that and a draft too or fan overhead. I know cb135 is soy. What style jar and size of jar are you using? What size wick? Do you get a complete melt pool on your first burn and how deep is it? Trappeur 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
candly Posted September 21, 2016 Author Share Posted September 21, 2016 3 hours ago, Trappeur said: Its from the wick. That used to happen to me all the time. That's why I changed to cd wicks. I had used htp wicks...I still use htp's on particular jars and they are fine, but after much testing, I found out it was the wick. Also too, too big a wick will cause that and a draft too or fan overhead. I know cb135 is soy. What style jar and size of jar are you using? What size wick? Do you get a complete melt pool on your first burn and how deep is it? Trappeur It's a 13.25 oz tumbler, with 2 cd-5 wicks. On the first burn it doesn't quite hit full melt pool but does subsequently and toward the bottom of the container hits FMP in about an hour. Stays right at 1/2" deep. Flames never gets too big and the wicks don't mushroom. I never had any luck single wicking that container without getting awful mushrooming :/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trappeur Posted September 21, 2016 Share Posted September 21, 2016 I'm only just guessing without knowing what jar it is, but have you tried a cd 20 or 22? How about 2 cd4 as that is what I use a lot of. What company is that jar from? Trappeur Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
candly Posted September 22, 2016 Author Share Posted September 22, 2016 It's the Libbey 13.25 oz tumbler, 3" diameter. I've tried CD4's but they leave a rather unsightly glazing of wax residue on the sides. I tried CD20 a while back, but just couldn't get as nice of a burn. I'll try again. Which container do you use the 2 cd4's with? I started out using cb135 and don't recall having this issue; changed to C3 for a while and really liked it but the shipping was so expensive that I switched back to cb135 which I can get locally. Thanks for helping me troubleshoot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Candybee Posted September 22, 2016 Share Posted September 22, 2016 Is there a particular reason you want to double wick? That size jar should work fine single wicked. Could be that the double wicking is causing the flames to not combust properly in that size jar and leaving extra soot that ends up in your melt pool. You don't see it until it cools right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
candly Posted September 22, 2016 Author Share Posted September 22, 2016 28 minutes ago, Candybee said: Is there a particular reason you want to double wick? That size jar should work fine single wicked. Could be that the double wicking is causing the flames to not combust properly in that size jar and leaving extra soot that ends up in your melt pool. You don't see it until it cools right? I like the way it looks, plus they throw really well. You can see the soot in little black streaks in the melt pool while the candle is burning as well. I had also tried this jar & wax with 2 Eco-2's, those wicks were too big and it had FMP too quickly but at the end of the candle there was only a tiny bit of soot on the top. Would you recommend a CD20 or CD22? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trappeur Posted September 22, 2016 Share Posted September 22, 2016 I agree too. Now I do the status jar (3") and I use 1 cd 14. I think the problem is you don't need 2 wicks. Now when I would light my candles I could see the soot starting pretty soon after I lit it and I could actually see more soot accumulating as the jar burned. It frustrated me for the longest time. You said there is a slight haze on the jar walls being that it hasn't reached a full melt pool. Well, you really don't need to be getting a full melt pool on the l'st or 2'nd burns as that jar is going to get way too hot the further down it burns. That haze is slight wax hangup which is good really. It will eventually melt away. Trappeur 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
candly Posted September 24, 2016 Author Share Posted September 24, 2016 Okay, thank you! I will go back to the drawing board on this one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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