Testing help!!!!

[candlesbyadam]

So I posted under "Business side of things" and I got replies that I need to do testing. Ive searched the forum but nothing looked useful to me and i'm not going to spend all day and night searching (sorry Beth). SO can somebody PLEASE tell me about this "testing". I've burned some candles that i've made and they seem fine.

What do I need to look for? How long do I need to test/burn it? How do I know what needs changed? How do I know if I have the "PERFECT" mix? I'm 10000% need at this and i'm clueless. I don't have all the time in the world to search and read through these.

Somebody PLEASE help

[Beth]

[candlesbyadam]

Beth I'm open to some help. I just don't have the attention span or time to sit and read every post on here.

[Guest OldGlory]

As most of us know, making good candles takes months if not years of research, trial and error testing, retesting, etc. It also takes plenty of time and money to get 'the perfect mix' with each type of wax, each different fragrance, each type of wick, each type and size of container.

With all due respect, my question to you is this: if you don't have time to research it, when will you find the time to do all of the testing required? Surely you wouldn't risk your business or personal reputation to sell a product that is going to burn down someone's home, or worse...

Remember - you are making a product someone will strike a match to, and the responsibility to make a safe product is entirely yours.

I hope you proceed carefully. I wish you the best of luck.

[rjdaines]

Testing is simple, you make a candle and you burn it and see how it does. Does it smoke, does it have a good hot throw and cold throw, how fast does the melt pool appear, is the melt pool too small or too deep, is the flame too small or too large. Most burn a candle for 1 hour for every inch in diameter, so roughly 3 to 4 hours and then blow out the candle, letting it completely cool and then light it up again. Testing is done until the candle is burnt out with roughly an inch of wax left.

If your candle are perfect already, post a few pictures and let us see.

[ksranch]

What kind of wax are you using?

[HorseScentS]

Here's a video about testing to see if you've got the right wick size: http://www.candlescience.com/video/choosing-the-right-wick-size.php

It's only a drop in the bucket as far as things you'll need to test for, but it's a start.

At first, I thought candle making was just a matter of following a simple recipe, pouring some wax in a jar with a wick, and slap on a label. But, now I see that the wax is just like a stone block in the hands of a sculptor, the sculptor needs training, practice, and talent to make that stone into a work of art.

You really have to be willing to spend the time researching and testing. I've been at it for over a year now and am not ready to sell, but I also don't have the money to test as much as others do or maybe I'd be further along. It took me a long time to figure out which wax and jar I want to use, and who has the best FO's, what wick works best, etc.

Now, if you're in a hurry and people's lives are going to be at risk because you really don't understand how dangerous candles are, or maybe don't really care, you can call www.candlescience.com and www.peakcandle.com and ask them to advise you on the best wick/wax/jar/dye combo based on their testing. They might tell you because it's to their advantage to get you up and running so they can sell you more supplies. I didn't do that, but it might save some lives, so I'm suggesting it.

Did you know that thousands of fires are started each year by glass container candles that overheat and explode or shatter or crack? So, even if someone gives you step-by-step instructions, you're still responsible to test each new FO and dye combo in your jar, because the wicking might be different for each one. And, because we all live at different altitudes and barometric pressure, what works perfect in Denver might not work at all in South Carolina.

Also, how angry will your customers be if your candle scorches an expensive piece of furniture? or burns their hand or their child's hand when they touch it?

Edited September 10, 2012 by HorsescentS

[HorseScentS]

And here's another article about testing: http://candlecocoon.com/library.asp?ID=1

[ChrisR]

OMG you need a reality check but fast!! After looking at your site and facebook page, I sure hope you have your insurance in place for the person who will sue you when your candle causes a fire. I had my product liability insurance bought and in place before I even started giving testers out, just in case there was a problem. If you can't afford insurance, forget about making candles! In your past posts you used glue dots to hold your wick tab............they definately will NOT work. You need to use wick stickums which some suppliers sell, hi temperature glue & glue gun or a good sealant (which you should find a brand name with a search).

Your labels are totally incorrect..........you need a net weight listed, and address and phone number. A search will also yield this information.

If you haven't tested ALL you scents, you'd better start now. Not all scents will take the same wick, some may need wicking up or down. Have you power burned any of your candle jars? Many customers will burn a candle for many hours at a time and if your wick is too big, the jar will become so hot it could shatter. Power burning without trimming the wick can cause the wick to smoke and soot big time. Does your candle reach a full melt pool quickly or not at all?

If you don't have the money to test properly, get the hell out of this hobby pronto and find a cheaper one. Newbies come and go and only the serious ones stick around and make candles properly. It's not an instant gratification hobby and there is much reading and testing involved. One wick, one jar and a bunch of FO's does not work and you need to stop selling to anyone till you learn this craft correctly. Take down your site and facebook page, you aren't even close to ready for that stage yet. If you actually are doing a craft show in November, you will need your business paperwork complete, filing for your state sales tax, your product liability insurance and whatever else is necessary in your state. At the stage you are at right now, you aren't capable of putting out a safe product yet, since you have no clue!! I'm sorry if this is harsh, but it's necessary if you don't want to hurt anyone. There is not such thing as not having enough time or money to test!!

[Judy, USMC]

Candlemaking is not like baking a cake; there is no standard formula that applies to ALL FOs. Testing involves time and money. The links and advice you've gotten so far have been spot on. And it's going to take TIME and ATTENTION. By building a site and starting to sell before you even know what is involved in testing is inane. Selling and including feedback replies smacks of selling too early and using your customers as testers and that's a suckie business attitude, IMO.

[ksranch]

What kind of wax are you using?

I asked this so we could get an idea of where you started. The problem with Hobby Lobby is they have kits, and make it look like making candles is as easy as making cupcakes. It's not. Before you think about selling, you should be able to answer numerous questions like - what is the ROC of the wick you are using? how many hours does your container candle burn? What % FO load are you using? When does your container reach a FMP? etc etc etc - I don't think you have these answers yet, but if wrong, please advise. I also noted on your FB page that you are planning to sell at a market on 9/15 - I really think you should reconsider, especially since you have no license or insurance - for reasons already made clear on this thread. When/if you are ready to put in the time and money to do the needed homework to produce a quality - SAFE candle, there is an abundance of info and helpful people on this forum.

[candlesbyadam]

Thank you but I'm already on it. Both site are down.

[candlesbyadam]

OMG you need a reality check but fast!! After looking at your site and facebook page, I sure hope you have your insurance in place for the person who will sue you when your candle causes a fire. I had my product liability insurance bought and in place before I even started giving testers out, just in case there was a problem. If you can't afford insurance, forget about making candles! In your past posts you used glue dots to hold your wick tab............they definately will NOT work. You need to use wick stickums which some suppliers sell, hi temperature glue & glue gun or a good sealant (which you should find a brand name with a search).

Your labels are totally incorrect..........you need a net weight listed, and address and phone number. A search will also yield this information.

If you haven't tested ALL you scents, you'd better start now. Not all scents will take the same wick, some may need wicking up or down. Have you power burned any of your candle jars? Many customers will burn a candle for many hours at a time and if your wick is too big, the jar will become so hot it could shatter. Power burning without trimming the wick can cause the wick to smoke and soot big time. Does your candle reach a full melt pool quickly or not at all?

If you don't have the money to test properly, get the hell out of this hobby pronto and find a cheaper one. Newbies come and go and only the serious ones stick around and make candles properly. It's not an instant gratification hobby and there is much reading and testing involved. One wick, one jar and a bunch of FO's does not work and you need to stop selling to anyone till you learn this craft correctly. Take down your site and facebook page, you aren't even close to ready for that stage yet. If you actually are doing a craft show in November, you will need your business paperwork complete, filing for your state sales tax, your product liability insurance and whatever else is necessary in your state. At the stage you are at right now, you aren't capable of putting out a safe product yet, since you have no clue!! I'm sorry if this is harsh, but it's necessary if you don't want to hurt anyone. There is not such thing as not having enough time or money to test!!

Thank you but I'm already on it. Both site are down.

[candlesbyadam]

I asked this so we could get an idea of where you started. The problem with Hobby Lobby is they have kits, and make it look like making candles is as easy as making cupcakes. It's not. Before you think about selling, you should be able to answer numerous questions like - what is the ROC of the wick you are using? how many hours does your container candle burn? What % FO load are you using? When does your container reach a FMP? etc etc etc - I don't think you have these answers yet, but if wrong, please advise. I also noted on your FB page that you are planning to sell at a market on 9/15 - I really think you should reconsider, especially since you have no license or insurance - for reasons already made clear on this thread. When/if you are ready to put in the time and money to do the needed homework to produce a quality - SAFE candle, there is an abundance of info and helpful people on this forum.

Paraffin Wax IGI 4636. I got a kit online. and as stated in other post its more of hobby than a business.

[ksranch]

Paraffin Wax IGI 4636. I got a kit online. and as stated in other post its more of hobby than a business.

J50 is a nice container wax! What type of wicks came with it?

First thing to get is some wick stickers (as previously mentioned). You must ensure the wicks are anchored well and won't come loose while testing. Before you move to selling you may want to change from those to a high temp silicone (many of us use it) but the stickers are good for testing because you can remove them to reuse the container (reuse only for testing, never when selling).

[candlesbyadam]

J50 is a nice container wax! What type of wicks came with it?

First thing to get is some wick stickers (as previously mentioned). You must ensure the wicks are anchored well and won't come loose while testing. Before you move to selling you may want to change from those to a high temp silicone (many of us use it) but the stickers are good for testing because you can remove them to reuse the container (reuse only for testing, never when selling).

Kit Includes:

• 1 Mini Pouring Pot (1.5 lb capacity)
  
• 1 Economy Thermometer
  
• 1 (4 oz) Apple Jack & Peel fragrance oil
  
• 1 (4 oz) Blueberry Cobbler fragrance oil
  
• 1 Dye Block #1 (Red)
  
• 1 Dye Block #16 (Royal Blue)
  
• 1 (10 lb) slab of IGI 4636 wax
  
• 1 bag of 100 Zinc Wicks 51-32-18 6 in.
  
• 1 roll of 100 Container Caution Labels (1.25 in.)
  
• 24 (6.5 oz) Classic Jars with gold lids
  
• 24 Glue Dots
  
• 12 Wick Bars
  
• Detailed Instruction Sheet
  

[candlesbyadam]

J50 is a nice container wax! What type of wicks came with it?

First thing to get is some wick stickers (as previously mentioned). You must ensure the wicks are anchored well and won't come loose while testing. Before you move to selling you may want to change from those to a high temp silicone (many of us use it) but the stickers are good for testing because you can remove them to reuse the container (reuse only for testing, never when selling).

IGI 4636 Container Blend Wax (J-50)

Soft and creamy, this low-shrink blend is designed specifically for container candles. This blend was formerly known as Astorlite J-50.

• The low-shrink property of this wax means in most applications you only have to pour once!
  
• Holds above average amounts of fragrance oil. Fragrance oil retention of 6-10% is typical.
  
• Very good burn characteristics.
  
• Good scent throw.
  

[candlesbyadam]

What kind of wax are you using?

IGI 4636 Container Blend Wax (J-50)

Soft and creamy, this low-shrink blend is designed specifically for container candles. This blend was formerly known as Astorlite J-50.

• The low-shrink property of this wax means in most applications you only have to pour once!
  
• Holds above average amounts of fragrance oil. Fragrance oil retention of 6-10% is typical.
  
• Very good burn characteristics.
  
• Good scent throw.
  

[ksranch]

Looks like a good kit! Except those pesky glue dots that is. Are you using the double boiler method to heat your wax? What temp did the "detailed instructions" tell you to heat it to add FO? Do you have one made that you are currently testing? If so, how's it doing?

[candlesbyadam]

Looks like a good kit! Except those pesky glue dots that is. Are you using the double boiler method to heat your wax? What temp did the "detailed instructions" tell you to heat it to add FO? Do you have one made that you are currently testing? If so, how's it doing?

Double Boiler...yes

I don't know where the instructions are at the moment but I normally wait until the wax is fully melted then add the FO and color block. 175 is about where I add it.

Yes I have one lit at the moment. Its one that I didn't fully fill. Wax it melted across the top and working down.

[HorseScentS]

Double Boiler...yes

I don't know where the instructions are at the moment but I normally wait until the wax is fully melted then add the FO and color block. 175 is about where I add it.

Yes I have one lit at the moment. Its one that I didn't fully fill. Wax it melted across the top and working down.

That looks like a good kit, which supplier is it from? There are testing forms posted here somewhere that you can print out and fill in the blanks to keep a record of your testing.

[ksranch]

Double Boiler...yes

I don't know where the instructions are at the moment but I normally wait until the wax is fully melted then add the FO and color block. 175 is about where I add it.

Yes I have one lit at the moment. Its one that I didn't fully fill. Wax it melted across the top and working down.

It's going to be hard to tell if it burns properly if it didn't start out full. However, when you say it melted across the top, do you mean it has a full melt pool? (FMP) As in, it is liquid clear across - and if so, how deep is it? Is the wick steady, or flickering, or 'drowning'? Is the jar hot to the touch? How is the hot throw? Just trying to give you examples of things you should be looking for...

[candlesbyadam]

That looks like a good kit, which supplier is it from? There are testing forms posted here somewhere that you can print out and fill in the blanks to keep a record of your testing.

Lone Star Candle Supply

[candlesbyadam]

It's going to be hard to tell if it burns properly if it didn't start out full. However, when you say it melted across the top, do you mean it has a full melt pool? (FMP) As in, it is liquid clear across - and if so, how deep is it? Is the wick steady, or flickering, or 'drowning'? Is the jar hot to the touch? How is the hot throw? Just trying to give you examples of things you should be looking for...

FMP....YES

about half is melted (maybe half inch)

Flame buries the wick but the wick is still above the MP

[ChandlerWicks]

• FAQ for Newbies link
  

• Tips link
  

I've noticed a lot of new people come here and asking questions without giving any important information. I figured I'd help all of us out. When you ask a question about a candle you are working with the following is VERY IMPORTANT

What wax type

What Wick types you have tried

- please don't try one wick and say it's not working.

What FO

What % FO

What size candle

- IE 3x6 pillar, 8oz jelly jar...

What additives are you using

maybe even what vendor the FO is from

Edited September 10, 2012 by ChandlerWicks