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464 - How long before a candle should begin to solidify?


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Grani L here again My Friends... -- Ok - I use 464 - 8 oz Square Masons, 12 oz mayo Jars and looking to test the 12 oz Status - (the one from Dollar Tree.) If anyone uses the 12 oz status, How long after they are poured should they begin to solidify? I am sure the 8 oz would start to solidify faster because it is smaller, but is there a specific timing which could affect the outcome such as sink holes and or HT? -- Should the jars be poured Hotter or Cooler because of their sizes?

My Scenerio.... Drum Roll Please..................... Dun Dun Dunnnnn..........

The 12 oz Libby- Heated to 185 - Added Color-- Poured into the Pour Pot- the Temp Dropped immediately to 159 (This was a glass measuring cup) added the FO --Stirred down to 139 and Poured into the 12 oz status-- It started to Solidify in 22 Minutes. I went to bed. The Next Morning, the CT was to die for. (Fruit Slices) -- Glass Adhension was perfect- no frost - but the middle was like caved and seperated ( as if someone was trying to cut a whole in the middle. _- other than that, it was perfect. The Wax was poured to about 1/2 inch from the top. ( This may have been too much in the jar...) Anyway, What did I do wrong? All comments would be greatly Appreciated.

Thanks in Advance!!

Grani L.

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I use the 12 oz Libbey Status Jars and have not seen this happen. Sounds like you are describing a "sink hole" and that is usually attributed to uneven cooling. Was the glass exposed to a draft, fan, AC? Where there other cooling candles around it? What was it stilling on? many use a cooling rack so that there is even air flow. I pour at 165.

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Sounds like I didnt pour Hot enough. I had only made the 1 candle. There were no others around it. I had it sitting on a cake rack. A window was open but not in the kitchen. I did have the glass on the stove while I melted the wax. So the Glass was a bit warm. Ok- I will redo this candle again without transferring it - letting it cool down in its original pot, then pour it into the Status at 165. 165 is the around the Normal Pour temp I have been using, but some process changes I have been experimenting with keeps me curious. I think I am beginning to get this.....

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It sounds an awful lot like a huge air pocket. If you were to light it you'd see a tunnel form and a potentially huge flame while the wick catches up with the air space around it.

It cooled too quickly IMO. I've learned to pour soy at a slushy state to prevent air pockets. If you get a chance, do a quick search on "air pockets".

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Thanks for the Info. I will definitely look the air pockets up. But heres what gets me.. If Tall Tayl pours at a slushie state, Which is very cool, and Rjd pours at 165... which is Hot, I think the answer lies in how long it actually takes from Both points to solidify, with the temperature of the room playing a hug part also. Alright, thanks a bunch.

I do appreciate your responses.

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Thanks for the Info. I will definitely look the air pockets up. But heres what gets me.. If Tall Tayl pours at a slushie state, Which is very cool, and Rjd pours at 165... which is Hot, I think the answer lies in how long it actually takes from Both points to solidify, with the temperature of the room playing a hug part also. Alright, thanks a bunch.

I do appreciate your responses.

My room is 75F, I know of a lot of people that pour at 165 but have never tried slushy. Just because those two temp points might work, it doesn't mean that all those temps in between will work too. I still think uneven cooling is part of the problem. Remember that wax contracts as it cools. Pouring at the slushy stage mean less contraction but maybe some surface issues, whereas, pouring hot means (for me) better surface texture but a greater chance of wet spots. Cooling too slow is bad too.

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Gotcha. - But now with using the 12 oz status, what wick works the best for that Jar? Or at least a suggested size to begin testing in tis size jar? Do you also use Different types of wicks depending upon the type FO? I think I will stick with that jar for now on - at least until I get the hang of somethings...

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The Diameter is 3". Its the 12 oz Status from Dollar Tree. Right now I have the Fruit slices burning, I had a CD14 in it and the wick was dancing the hoola. Smells great tho. I did pull that wick out and put in a cotton core C85. Callmed Down real Nice. Then I pulled that one out and put in a Hemp 60048. It was calm at first, then after about 2 hours, it got a huge Mushroom on it, and now its dancing. I have the Hemp in now as I type. The CD 14 was Hotter than the C85 and this Hemp is pretty hot, but not scorching hot. The sides of the jar is pretty clean. - (This is the Fruit Slices that had the Huge Sink Hole.) Of course at first, the first wick started to drown when I first lit the candle after a good hour or so. So I cut the candle down to a smooth level and continued to test. But the Fruit Slices FO seem to be somewhat Heavy. I may have too much FO in it. I have 3 other smaller size jars with this FO and they all were Dancing, but smelling wonderful. It Just Blowed my daughters room completely up. My sister came over to visit me on today, and when she walked in the door, she was like, it smells good in here. Anyway...

Edited by Grani L
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There are several of us here who agree that CD wicks seem to dance a lot in soy wax but they do give a great HT. I've used up to a CD-16 in that jar depending on FO. All you can do is test and test some more. Check for drafts and ceiling fans, moving air contributes to dancing. I don't see dancing as a problem unless the flame get too long and it starts throwing soot and, yes, soy wax will throw soot.

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Ok- thats a relief. I hope to start a business in the near future, and I was afraid that this flame dancing was a no no. I dont want to put anything out that is not right. BUt you are right about the HT. It is nice. Anyway, till next time, God Bless!!

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