Candybee Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 Just made an olive oil soap with 10% castor oil and no dyes or scents. This is only my second batch of CP soap I ever made and just like the first this one also came to trace after 1-2 minutes with my stick blender. I am just doing short bursts with the stick blender, about 20-30 seconds each, then stirring with a spoon the rest of the time.I thought high olive oil soaps took a long time to trace?!! Am I doing something wrong? It looks fine but then I'm no expert. It had a medium thick pudding texture when I poured it into the mold. This is only my second batch of CP soap. I'm using a Hamilton Beach 2 speed with a 225 watt motor. Ran this through the soap calc then double checked with MMS calc:20 oz olive oil2 oz castor oilwater 7.26 ozlye 2.75 oz(superfat @ 7%)Oils were at 108 degrees F and lye water was 100 degrees F.Just wondering if the trace was too fast? Or is this normal when using stick blenders? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IwantItgreen Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 What kind of olive oil? Pomace sometimes will trace quicker that reg. and extra virgin is even slower to trace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Candybee Posted January 28, 2012 Author Share Posted January 28, 2012 Its plain olive oil I got at Walmart; Olivari Classic. It says its "olive oil comprised of refined olive oil and extra virgin olive oil." It has a light OO taste. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IwantItgreen Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 Something to think about....Soapbuddy posted about adulterated Olive oil on another forum. I copied it here:Here is an excerpt from SLO newspaper. See how many failed to be 100% pure olive oil.IMPORTED OLIVE OILS:Filippo Berio Extra Virgin Olive Oil: Two out of three samples failed.Bertolli Extra Virgin Olive Oil: Three of three samples failed.Pompeian Extra Virgin Olive Oil: Three of three samples failed.Colavita Extra Virgin Olive Oil: Two of three samples failed.Star Extra Virgin Olive Oil: One of three samples failed.Carapelli Extra Virgin Olive Oil: Three of three samples failed.Newman's Own Organics Extra Virgin Olive Oil: Two of three samples failed.Mezzetta Extra Virgin Olive Oil: Three of three samples failed.Mazola Extra Virgin Olive Oil: Three of three samples failed.Rachael Ray Extra Tasty Extra Virgin Olive Oil: Two of three samples failed.Kirkland Organic Extra Virgin Olive Oil: All samples passed.Great Value 100 percent Extra Virgin Olive Oil: One of three samples failed.Safeway Select Extra Virgin Olive Oil: Two of three samples failed.365 Everyday Value 100 percent Italian Extra Virgin Olive Oil: Two of three samples failed.DOMESTIC OLIVE OILS:Corto Olive Extra Virgin Olive Oil: All samples passed.California Olive Ranch Extra Virgin Olive Oil: All samples passed.McEvoy Ranch Organic Extra Virgin Olive Oil: All samples passed.Bariani Olive Oil Extra Virgin Olive Oil: One of two samples failed.Lucero (Ascolano) Extra Virgin Olive Oil: All samples passed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Candybee Posted January 28, 2012 Author Share Posted January 28, 2012 (edited) Yeah. I've read at least one article on the olive oil industry and how some 'olive oils' are not pure. Wish I could remember what is was it said how you could tell which ones are true.However, the first batch I made using the same olive oil at 45%. Its only a week old and its already creamy and sudsy. I don't really care that it traced fast I am just trying to figure out why. I may add some dye and scent to the next batch and hope I have time to blend it in before trace. Edited January 28, 2012 by Candybee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eugenia Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 (edited) Candybee, I think that the complaints of "taking forever to trace" refer mostly to hand stirring. The S/B you are using is pretty powerful. Your results do not surprise me. Your recipe looks fine re: oils to lye but your water is a bit heavy. The down side to castile is that they take a long time to get hard. Typically, I'd use at least a 33% lye solution, which whould be 2.73 oz of lye to 5.54 oz of water. Yours is a 27.4% lye solution. I prefer to reference strength of lye solution; water discount is different terminology for the same concept, which is that the lye remains a constant, while the water varies. A stronger lye solution (higher %) means less water, so harder soaps faster; losing water is a part of the cure process. When I began soaping, I used a weaker solution and log molds, and my logs tended to hollow out at the top~when that bars were cut they always had a curve in the middle (the sides were higher).Sometimes a 28% solution is desirable for me, I work with finicky fragrances and love to swirl, and the weaker solution allows me more time. I'm soaping in slabs now, and that "curve" is never an issue.Welcome to the addiction. e Edited January 28, 2012 by eugenia Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eugenia Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 Forgot to add I never color or scent my castile, it's the mildest soap ever and plain adds to the appeal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Candybee Posted January 28, 2012 Author Share Posted January 28, 2012 Oh thank you E. I had been using the default setting on the soapcalc as I thought that was best for a newbie. I am still a bit muddle brained about the water weights to oils and the water : lye solution. I will play with the calc some and set for 33%. But I did notice that on the lye calc on MMS the lye seemed to remain constant but the water would be in a range.I kind of guessed the stick blender must be a high power since I got a fast trace but I never used one so I can't gauge how well it compares to others. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Candybee Posted January 28, 2012 Author Share Posted January 28, 2012 Sometimes a 28% solution is desirable for me, I work with finicky fragrances and love to swirl, and the weaker solution allows me more time. I'm soaping in slabs now, and that "curve" is never an issue.Welcome to the addiction. eI just had a new thought-- since my stick blender is making my soap trace so quickly should I continue with the weaker lye solution? If I use 33% will it trace faster?BTW-- I am also pouring into slab molds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eugenia Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 You have to be careful with the S/B, bursts and hand stir and I am thinking that you get that. For some batches I don't use it at all-soap that seized before is ok with room temp oils and lye and a whisk only, but no chance for color. There are a few that smell that good that they are worth the effort. For a newbie, I am only recommending the 33% or stronger for castile since it takes so long to get hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Candybee Posted January 29, 2012 Author Share Posted January 29, 2012 Thanks E. I already put that in my notes for next time. Also, thanks for reminding me about using a whisk. I picked up a good used one at the Goodwill store for under a buck and forgot to try it out with my soaping today. Will give it a try next time to see how well that works for me. I notice that the SB puts a lot of air in the soap and so I like to finish by hand stirring with a spoon a bit because I noticed it helps release any large air bubbles I get. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CareBear Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 Just made an olive oil soap with 10% castor oil and no dyes or scents. This is only my second batch of CP soap I ever made and just like the first this one also came to trace after 1-2 minutes with my stick blender. I am just doing short bursts with the stick blender, about 20-30 seconds each, then stirring with a spoon the rest of the time.I thought high olive oil soaps took a long time to trace?!! Am I doing something wrong? It looks fine but then I'm no expert. It had a medium thick pudding texture when I poured it into the mold. This is only my second batch of CP soap. I'm using a Hamilton Beach 2 speed with a 225 watt motor. Ran this through the soap calc then double checked with MMS calc:20 oz olive oil2 oz castor oilwater 7.26 ozlye 2.75 oz(superfat @ 7%)Oils were at 108 degrees F and lye water was 100 degrees F.Just wondering if the trace was too fast? Or is this normal when using stick blenders?By the way, that is not 10% ocastor, but 9%. 2/(20+2) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oceangazer1 Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 I have the same sb. I cannot do 20-30 sec bursts normally. My bursts are much shorter and I constantly stir with the sb. Your bursts are long jmo and that is why you reached trace quickly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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