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Which Wax For Jelly Jars?


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I started before a lot of these waxes came on the market and used scale wax and stearic which was definitely 2-pour. I quit making candles for 2 years to take care of my mom.

Back in 2006 I was given some 4786 and added just 1tsp pp of stearic to get the familiar consistency/hardness. I tried the 4630 but it seemed to have a milder hot throw. Now be warned the 4786 does take more attention than the single pour - but with the FOs I use it makes a great throwing candle. It's just a tad more costlier to reheat the wax for the second pour. And (sticking with whats worked for me) I do use zinc wicks.

Now your results may be different. The 4630 and wick combo I used may not have been the best. So I guess I'm really saying testing is in order ...

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4786 and added just 1tsp pp of stearic to get the familiar consistency/hardness.

Oh - Forgot to add that with the 4786/stearic combo you will probably see wet spots. The wax shrinks as it cools and the stearic adds to the shrinkage and it can pull away from the side of the jars. To lessen the effect I do pre-heat the jars, but often it is not enough. It hasn't hurt my sales; the throw more than makes up for the appearance.

Edited by Judy, USMC
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4786 and added just 1tsp pp of stearic to get the familiar consistency/hardness.

Oh - Forgot to add that with the 4786/stearic combo you will probably see wet spots. The wax shrinks as it cools and the stearic adds to the shrinkage and it can pull away from the side of the jars. To lessen the effect I do pre-heat the jars, but often it is not enough. It hasn't hurt my sales; the throw more than makes up for the appearance.

I had the same thing happen with 6006, even though I preheated my jelly jars, so I was wondering if adding coconut oil would fix that.

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Based on my experience ... 100% of the buyers will pick up and open a candle to smell it. I have never noticed anyone turning the jar around to see if there are wet spots. The wax/stearic combo is working fine for me so I'm taking the attitude that it's not a factor in a buyer's decision; it's not broken so why try to fix it? Put yourself in the buyer's place - do you base a candle purchase on your nose or your eyes?

@HorsescentS - any time you start playing with additives you open the door to more testing. How will it affect the wicking or scent throw? What percentage would you use? Will your proven FOs still work when the CO is added? The OP was talking about paraffin wax and 6006 is a parasoy so that question may be better served in the veggie section.

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Based on my experience ... 100% of the buyers will pick up and open a candle to smell it. I have never noticed anyone turning the jar around to see if there are wet spots. The wax/stearic combo is working fine for me so I'm taking the attitude that it's not a factor in a buyer's decision; it's not broken so why try to fix it? Put yourself in the buyer's place - do you base a candle purchase on your nose or your eyes?

@HorsescentS - any time you start playing with additives you open the door to more testing. How will it affect the wicking or scent throw? What percentage would you use? Will your proven FOs still work when the CO is added? The OP was talking about paraffin wax and 6006 is a parasoy so that question may be better served in the veggie section.

I'm not working with 6006 anymore, I'm using paraffin, but I was surprised you were having the same problem with paraffin that I had with parasoy because I haven't had that problem with paraffin. There was some discussion on another thread about whether or not you can add CO to paraffin, but whatever. I mostly go by scent, but I am turned off by wax that looks like a hard lump of Playdoh that's not even touching the sides of the jar. Ideally, I want both a strong scent and a nice smooth look, and there are candles like that in the stores. A wet spot here and there doesn't bother me, but more than that does bother me.

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