Trouble wicking beeswax

[PoiToy]

Hello all! This is my first post. I found you guys while trying to solve my beeswax issues.

I'm using plain beeswax in a mason jar with a #4 square braid wick. For the first 30 minutes or so I had a flame that was about 1 1/2" inches that would occasionally flash higher with a puff of smoke, then return to 1 1/2" inches. After 30 minutes, it dropped down to a sad 1/2", just barely clearing the top of the wick. I originally wicked this wax/jar with a 2/0, which was drowning, so I thought switching to #4 would be a huge improvement. Should I go higher? I'm almost scared to see the flame size that'd give me to start with! I'm completely learning as I go here. My first candle with a different batch of beeswax using a mason jar and two 2/0 wicks was a rousing (and completely accidental) success. Since then I've not made a single burnable candle (single or double wick). Is there some beeswax that is just no good for candles? This stuff is dark but clean-looking (no debris) and has a super strong honey scent. I hope I gave enough info...any help is greatly appreciated!

[Pam W]

Have you tried a #3? I wouldn't go to a bigger wick but then I've never done BW in a container, only pillars.

[nursenancy]

I'm having the same problem with some local BW and votives. I think the wick is getting clogged. It starts out great but dies down to a flicker after about an hour. I'm using square braid 2/0. I tried 1/0 but that didn't do it. I also tried an LX 20, a hemp wick (1312?) and a CD 12 because I don't have any other square braids on hand. I def think they need a square braid, though.

i don't do alot of BW, but someone gave me about 10 lbs of it, so...

[CareBear]

I thought that beeswax container candles were a bad idea - I cannot recall why, but I'm fairly certain I read it here.

[EricofAZ]

You might find that the flat braid works better with beeswax. A 32 ply to start with then go up or down to suit your fancy. ECO 4 also seems to work well with that wax also.

Another thing that works is to filter the wax. Melt it and pour it through one of those restaurant oil strainers.

Not sure where the best place is to get this for you, but this is what I found locally at a restaurant supply and it works.

http://www.stacksandstacks.com/cooking-oil-filter-kit-by-empire-comfort-systems?id=815&sku=179916&AID=10273848&PID=500871

Edited December 5, 2011 by EricofAZ

[PoiToy]

Thanks for the replies! I wasn't sure about going smaller since my flame gets so small after it burns for a while. It's also dancing/flickering quite a bit on this second burn. I haven't tested any other wicks as all I have on hand are square braid 4/0, 2/0 and #4. I'm waiting for an order of #1, #2, #3 and #5 to arrive.

I also read that beeswax containers were a bad idea because of how hot the beeswax burns... I made my first candle without reading any info anywhere (I just bought beeswax, wicks and tabs and ran with it) so I didn't know any better. Also, I use mason jars for olive oil lamps, so I figured they'd work fine for candles... It worked GREAT. I burned it for 4 hours straight one night without any trouble and then off and on until it was gone. This may have been a fluke, of course, but since I prefer container candles, I'm trying to replicate that one. Unfortunately, I'm using beeswax from a different supplier now. Does anybody know if adding olive oil to the beeswax would help it burn cooler and lessen the risk of breaking the glass?

I thought I saw, after finally doing some reading up, that you *have* to use square braid for larger diameter beeswax candles?

I didn't realize there was so much trial and error involved in this : )

[ChrisR]

No 2 beeswaxs are the same! It all depends on where the beeswax is from, you really can't control the bees much. The darker the beeswax the harder it is to wick. Because beeswax burns hotter, I refuse to make container candles, as the glass can shatter from the heat. I personally use LX 16's for my votives and square braid from my pillars, tapers and tea lites. Good luck!!

[rjdaines]

No 2 beeswaxs are the same! It all depends on where the beeswax is from, you really can't control the bees much. The darker the beeswax the harder it is to wick. Because beeswax burns hotter, I refuse to make container candles, as the glass can shatter from the heat. I personally use LX 16's for my votives and square braid from my pillars, tapers and tea lites. Good luck!!

I was given some beeswax and been try ti come up with a project for it. Votives sound like a good idea but in a tight fitting container, aren't votives essentially container candles and prone to the same glass shattering potential? I don't have enough to start experimenting making pillars and tapers.

[ChrisR]

I was given some beeswax and been try ti come up with a project for it. Votives sound like a good idea but in a tight fitting container, aren't votives essentially container candles and prone to the same glass shattering potential? I don't have enough to start experimenting making pillars and tapers.

Absolutely if the votive is overwicked. That's one of the main reasons I use an LX wick for my votives instead of square braid. I've been making beeswax candles for about 13 years now and haven't lost a votive holder yet - but, there's always a first for everything, so I never say never lol! No one is saying you actually can't make beeswax container candles, I just won't make them in a glass container.