mzphee Posted October 26, 2011 Share Posted October 26, 2011 :pIM so excited I just tracked my supplies and the package is in transit!:yay: The package is in PA and I should get it here in IL tomorrow. Ok so is there anything else I will need heres what I have. 15lbs of wax(3 5lbs of different kind)4pks of different sample wicks, I have 4oz and 8oz jelly jars(this is what I will continue to use, clothes pins to center wicks,melt/pour pot, FO,thermometer...ok anything else? what about vybar or stearic acid? yes or no? I quess I can get that at HL and test to see if I like it....:yay: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beth Posted October 26, 2011 Share Posted October 26, 2011 Scales to weigh your wax & FO.I use skewers for stirring; otherwise, something to stir with. What kinds of wax did you get? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mzphee Posted October 26, 2011 Author Share Posted October 26, 2011 i went with the candlewic store , the sampler came with 5lbs each of candlewic soy 125,golden foods gw 444, and elevances C-3 and 4pk of sample candles for 17.99...what do you think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharon in KY Posted October 26, 2011 Share Posted October 26, 2011 i went with the candlewic store , the sampler came with 5lbs each of candlewic soy 125,golden foods gw 444, and elevances C-3 and 4pk of sample candles for 17.99...what do you think?Sounds like a good deal and some good waxes to compare. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beth Posted October 26, 2011 Share Posted October 26, 2011 (edited) i went with the candlewic store , the sampler came with 5lbs each of candlewic soy 125,golden foods gw 444, and elevances C-3 and 4pk of sample candles for 17.99...what do you think?Do you have the link for that kit? I don't see it.I found it.. Edited October 26, 2011 by Beth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mzphee Posted October 26, 2011 Author Share Posted October 26, 2011 that should be 4packs of sample wicks..not candles sorry, @ Beth so what do you think? @ Sharon in KY I thought it was a good deal it gives me a small variety to test. along with this I purchased 3 FO which wasnt bad either...it was the shipping cost that was quite scarey! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beth Posted October 26, 2011 Share Posted October 26, 2011 that should be 4packs of sample wicks..not candles sorry, @ Beth so what do you think? @ Sharon in KY I thought it was a good deal it gives me a small variety to test. along with this I purchased 3 FO which wasnt bad either...it was the shipping cost that was quite scarey!Sounds pretty good. Now do a forum search for each wax and piece together all the info to get a good starting point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mzphee Posted October 26, 2011 Author Share Posted October 26, 2011 OK thank you, im gonna do that now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coconut Posted October 26, 2011 Share Posted October 26, 2011 Once you decide to stick with this hobby, a wick centering tool will save you a ton of time and aggravation. Also, wick holders beat clothepins by a mile. I use these from Bittercreek North: http://cart.candlesupply.com/product.php?productid=19995&cat=634&page=1. Did the kit come with something to use to stick the wicks to the bottom of the jar? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beth Posted October 26, 2011 Share Posted October 26, 2011 Once you decide to stick with this hobby, a wick centering tool will save you a ton of time and aggravation. Also, wick holders beat clothepins by a mile. I use these from Bittercreek North: http://cart.candlesupply.com/product.php?productid=19995&cat=634&page=1. Did the kit come with something to use to stick the wicks to the bottom of the jar?ooooh, good catch, lol. I like the wick stickers from CMS. I desperately need a centering gizmo..gotta find one to fit my jars though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mzphee Posted October 26, 2011 Author Share Posted October 26, 2011 no I was going to use hot glue to stick the wicks, is that a bad idea? I read somewhere that you could use clothespin , is that a bad idea? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beth Posted October 26, 2011 Share Posted October 26, 2011 no I was going to use hot glue to stick the wicks, is that a bad idea? I read somewhere that you could use clothespin , is that a bad idea?Clothespins will work if you have nothing else. I've found them to be so lightweight that they like to move easily. You can use high temp glue; I'm just too impatient, lol. I like to slap the sticker on & go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted October 26, 2011 Share Posted October 26, 2011 (edited) what about vybar or stearic acid?This depends on the wax you are using. It's not advisable to use additives when you don't know what they are for or why you are using them. Vybar is for paraffin waxes. Stearic acid is used for pillar palm wax. USA is used for some soy waxes. Before you go thinking about additives, first learn what you are doing with your wax as it comes. THEN use additives wisely to correct issues or create certain effects.I was going to use hot glue to stick the wicks, is that a bad idea?For testing purposes, no. But for gifting or selling, yes. The temperature at which hot glue softens is frequently lower than the temps at the end of a container. You need an adhesive that will NOT soften or melt because if it does, liquid wax can be sucked up by the wick from UNDERNEATH the wick tab, defeating the self-extinguishing value of the wicktab. The candle should extinguish when the level of the wax drops below the hight of the wicktab. This prevents the candle from burning to the bitter end and achieving dangerously high temperatures. The other reason we use a strong non-softening adhesive is to keep that wicktab in place so it does not "wander" as the candle becomes liquid. Convection currents in the hot, liquid wax will allow a loose wicktab to move off center or to the side of the container, creating a dangerously hot environment for that area of the container. We use self-extinguishing wicktabs because we cannot depend upon customers to extinguish the wick at 1/2" as advised on warning labels (which most never bother to read).I have tried many different brands of adhesive backed foam wick stickers, including the 3M ones touted to work so well, NONE of them will hold up 100% of the time during a powerburn.For candles I give away or sell, I use Permatex Silicon gasket sealer (red) sold at auto stores everywhere. It is rated for in excess of 700°F and does not soften. I have never had a single wick tab fail when using this adhesive, even when the candle was torture tested (ie. deliberately overwicked and powerburned). The containers must be wicked at least several hours (preferably 24 hours) in advance of pouring to allow the silicon to harden and cure to maximum strength.Here's what can happen when using high temp hot glue:This is something you NEVER want to see happen to even ONE of your candles. This is the result of a powerburn test of a palm wax container candle (I have seen the same thing happen with soy wax candles, too). Note that the wick has sucked up every bit of available wax from underneath when the wax was liquid before the flame starved from lack of fuel and died out. Also note the soot on the side of the container from the flame wandering off-center to the side and becoming way too hot. (the black stuff at 8:00 on the container is writing on the outside, not soot) and the soot in the wax from overheating. If you peer closely, you can see the resolidified hot glue underneath the wick tab.I read somewhere that you could use clothespinClothespins work for holding the top of the wick relatively taut. I prefer the bow tie wick bar for this. It holds very securely and keeps the wick centered and taut as the candle cools Edited October 26, 2011 by Stella1952 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmc Posted October 27, 2011 Share Posted October 27, 2011 Walmart carries a great little digital scale for 19.99 and weighs in grams, ounces, and lbs...have fun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clueless Posted October 27, 2011 Share Posted October 27, 2011 Best of luck!! Your going to do just fine and have a blast with it!! Be sure to keep us updated. I did my first last night and they turned out!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KLeigh Posted October 27, 2011 Share Posted October 27, 2011 :pIM so excited I just tracked my supplies and the package is in transit!:yay: The package is in PA and I should get it here in IL tomorrow. Ok so is there anything else I will need heres what I have. 15lbs of wax(3 5lbs of different kind)4pks of different sample wicks, I have 4oz and 8oz jelly jars(this is what I will continue to use, clothes pins to center wicks,melt/pour pot, FO,thermometer...ok anything else? what about vybar or stearic acid? yes or no? I quess I can get that at HL and test to see if I like it....:yay:I am so glad to know I am not the only one excited enough to track their package. Mine is due to arrive today; but unfortunatley, I will not get to "play" until this weekend due to a project at work that is keeping me busy until late at night and a 15 month old who Demands attention, lol. But, I am still excited none the less and will at least get to pilfer through my goodies when I get home. For candles I give away or sell, I use Permatex Silicon gasket sealer (red) sold at auto stores everywhere. It is rated for in excess of 700°F and does not soften. I have never had a single wick tab fail when using this adhesive, even when the candle was torture tested (ie. deliberately overwicked and powerburned). The containers must be wicked at least several hours (preferably 24 hours) in advance of pouring to allow the silicon to harden and cure to maximum strength.Thanks for the info. I am going today on my lunch hour to see if I can find these in a local store around here to have on hand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjdaines Posted October 27, 2011 Share Posted October 27, 2011 I use the Permatex sealer for candles that I sell or give away and don't expect to use the glass again. I consider the wick tab to be permanently glued to the glass, thought I have not tried to remove it. For test candles that I burn I don't use Permatex. I use Tacky Wax. Yes, by the end of the burn you an get some movement but I usually have my answer by then and stop the testing. This allows me to reuse the container for future tests. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted October 27, 2011 Share Posted October 27, 2011 Permatex can be removed, but not as easily as other adhesives. I use a single edge razor bade. It comes right off. This is difficult in narrow jars, however. It's also a lot easier if one simply uses a dot of wax directly over the wick underneath and doesn't cover the entire tab bottom. It only takes a tiny dab to do the job. When one uses a larger dab which smooshes out when the tab is pressed down to completely cover and "seat" the wick tab, removal is much more difficult. Like Brylcream - a little dab'll do ya.I am so glad to know I am not the only one excited enough to track their package.I LOVE getting stuff in the mail - the years make no difference. I'd rather it had a GPS tracking device so I could watch it move down the road to my home... LOLOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coconut Posted October 28, 2011 Share Posted October 28, 2011 no I was going to use hot glue to stick the wicks, is that a bad idea? I read somewhere that you could use clothespin , is that a bad idea?Nothing wrong with a clothespin, but it is a pain in the neck. As for sticking the wicks, I think Stella presented a lot of great information. I have had customers actually tell me they liked certain brands of candles because they burn all the wax like in her photos. Oh, my. I use a different method to stick my wicks and I have not had any of them come loose, nor have I had any issues with all the wax burning due to wicking from the bottom. It is unorthodox but works for me and I can easily reuse my jars for testing (I do not reuse jars for selling). I use sticky mold sealer clay. I flatten a little ball of it on the bottom of the wick tab and press it firmly to the glass. The clay does not melt and it stays stuck. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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