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6oz tin burning question...


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not new to candles, but newish to tins. I'm making up an emergency candle for stocking stuffers this year - will maybe add it to my line if there's enough time this year. If not then definitely next year.

OK - question is, just how are tins supposed to burn. Full mp on the first burn, or wait for it to catch up? I just started to test my unscented, uncolored 6oz tin going on three hours now. With a CD12 there's about 1/4" wax left around the edges and about 1/4" melted down already - is this tunneling or am I not giving it enough of a chance. Any advice, especially for an emergency candle would be great (i.e., how long it should burn, labeling advice etc.)

TIA!!

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If you've still got a bit of hang up, you're OK. The walls of tins transfer the heat down more than glass, so it will catch up on subsequent burns.

Be prepared though for a little deepr melt pool caused by that heat transfer. Also, as you get down closer to the bottom (maybe about the last inch or so), don't be surprised if the entire thing goes liquid. HTH.

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I make the 6 oz. tins using EZSoy and CD 12 wicks for most FO's. I usually have a little bit of hangup on the first burn but it subsequently catches up. Sounds like you are on the right track.

Well, I'm on the 2nd burn, and with a total of 6 hours burn time so far, the sides aren't catching up at all and a lot of the wax has been consumed. Sooooo I'm thinking that as this is unscented, a CD12 may be too big. I'll let it burn 'til the end to see how it does, but maybe a CD10? Or any suggestions for an equivalent? Maybe I'll have to take a pic & post it for y'all.

Thanks for the feedback!

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Well, I'm on the 2nd burn, and with a total of 6 hours burn time so far, the sides aren't catching up at all and a lot of the wax has been consumed. Sooooo I'm thinking that as this is unscented, a CD12 may be too big. I'll let it burn 'til the end to see how it does, but maybe a CD10? Or any suggestions for an equivalent? Maybe I'll have to take a pic & post it for y'all.

Thanks for the feedback!

Don't you think it might be too small rather than too big? If I'm not mistaken, 6 oz tins are the better part of 3 inches across.
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Don't you think it might be too small rather than too big? If I'm not mistaken, 6 oz tins are the better part of 3 inches across.

It's a 2.75" diameter & am using it with GF435 soy/cottonseed. The reason I was thinking of going smaller was because of how quickly the wax is being consumed. I'm concerned that I'm getting a tunneling effect. I'm on my 4th burn tonight - I'll keep ya posted :)

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My 8 oz tins are 3" in diameter, and I'm in the testing mode - CD 16 is too small for it! Sounds weird, compared to your testing, those are tiny wicks (esp. the CD7s, bigtussle!). Huh. I'll have to keep on burnin' and see what works, I guess. I'm just trying to picture my tins with a poor little CD7 wick in there, it would just burn this tiny little tealight hole down the middle, LOL! I am pouring 98% soy, 2% b/w, so I guess wicking up is the order of the day, but dang, that's a huge difference!

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My 8 oz tins are 3" in diameter, and I'm in the testing mode - CD 16 is too small for it! Sounds weird, compared to your testing, those are tiny wicks (esp. the CD7s, bigtussle!). Huh. I'll have to keep on burnin' and see what works, I guess. I'm just trying to picture my tins with a poor little CD7 wick in there, it would just burn this tiny little tealight hole down the middle, LOL! I am pouring 98% soy, 2% b/w, so I guess wicking up is the order of the day, but dang, that's a huge difference!
Same here. The CD sizes are so close together that actually 3 of them are workable. CD 16 is at the low end and only works because tins catch up so well on the way down. CD 20 is at the high end and gets a reliable melt pool but I don't feel it maintains a nice burn for long enough.

However, the CD 7/8 person was talking about paraffin and parasoy. I suspect CD 14 or 16 is the trick for the original poster.

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Using anything bigger than a CD-10 in a 6 oz tin really scares me. Tins get very hot toward the bottom. Maybe this is why I won't use pure soy. I know soy burns much slower than paraffin, but big CD's in a small 6 Oz is just asking for trouble. Most customers don't burn for just 3 or 4 hours, they burn all day. I like paraffin with about 30% soy. You get the best of both waxes!

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Using anything bigger than a CD-10 in a 6 oz tin really scares me. Tins get very hot toward the bottom. Maybe this is why I won't use pure soy. I know soy burns much slower than paraffin, but big CD's in a small 6 Oz is just asking for trouble. Most customers don't burn for just 3 or 4 hours, they burn all day. I like paraffin with about 30% soy. You get the best of both waxes!

I've found that parasoy blends burn much quicker & wick easier than all soy or soy/veggie blends, hence a smaller wick for parasoy would be appropriate. Since I'm making an emergency candle (say if you get stuck in the snow, your car stops working, *gasp* your cell phone battery is dead, who knows when help is coming and you need heat) I wanted to make sure it lasts a good long time. This candle is more for sticking in your car along with other emergency supplies rather than burning at home. Hopefully people will remember to take it out of their cars before summer! Guess that's something I'll have to put on the label!

Thanks for all the input!

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Using anything bigger than a CD-10 in a 6 oz tin really scares me. Tins get very hot toward the bottom. Maybe this is why I won't use pure soy. I know soy burns much slower than paraffin, but big CD's in a small 6 Oz is just asking for trouble. Most customers don't burn for just 3 or 4 hours, they burn all day. I like paraffin with about 30% soy. You get the best of both waxes!
Unless your wax has a much lower melt point, I doubt your tins are cooler for using a smaller wick. It's not the size of the wick but the size of the fire. Soy is viscous so requires a larger wick to generate the same amount of firepower.
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Well, I'm the complete oddball. I actually use a CDN-18 in my 6 oz. tins. A CDN-16 just wouldn't quite do it - there was still wax left on the sides. I really don't feel it is unsafe, as long as it is burned on a heat-resistant surface. I've power-burned mine in tests, burned them completely to the bottom, and any other careless thing I could think of my customers doing. Tins can get hot, glass can get hot. If you want the wax to completely melt off the sides, they will get hot. I've touched the sides, and they were hot, but not enough to cause a burn, so that doesn't seem like a safety issue to me. In my experience, most consumers tend to under-burn the tin candles - 1 to 2 hours at a time on average. I wanted to wick mine to compensate for that tendency. One other note, and maybe I'm just crazy, but it seems that when you use CDN - natural wax treated wicks, as opposed to just CD's, you have to go up one more wick size to get the same melt pool.

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soygirl - as I run my tests today (oh my gah, I might die the smell of Creme Brulee is so strong), I'm finding that a CD 18 might do the trick. I agree that the majority of consumers tend to burn the tins on the shorter side rather than the longer - and my tins, even after 4 hours, are not at all scary hot. I can comfortably pick them up and move them around. So, there's my update. I think the CD20 is going to be just a tad too big, and consume too much wax too fast. So, in case anyone cares, there's my take on it for today!

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One other note, and maybe I'm just crazy, but it seems that when you use CDN - natural wax treated wicks, as opposed to just CD's, you have to go up one more wick size to get the same melt pool.
If the CDs perform better for you than CDNs, you should use them. CDNs weren't made for natural waxes. They were designed for stearic candles and then some people found they worked better with the pH of certain veggie waxes. However it varies from wax to wax. In my case I never see any difference whatsoever. Probably whichever is creating the better melt pool is working better in your wax.
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Before CDN's were made the guy from Heiz, Verhaegh, told me they were coming out with a wick to be used with natural wax. And sent me some samples to try, that was 4 years or so ago, use to order CD's from them.
I was going by info from Lyschel at Candle Cocoon, which I guess could be wrong or distorted ("stearic candles" could actually be meant to refer to natural waxes). One thing I have noticed though is that CDNs aren't automatically the better wicks to use in soy. Sometimes it makes no difference, or according to the one poster it could be the opposite effect.
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Okay, grrr - I'm burning for 3.5 hrs at a time, and my sides are still covered in a 1/4" reserve of wax. I really don't want to wick the tin with a 22, so I think I'm going to bump it on back down to a 6 oz tin. These 8 ozers are just too wide, it takes a HTP 1312 to burn my 3" containers, and I just can't see myself selling an open flame with that large a wick. Anyone disagree? I'd love to be able to offer an 8 oz tin, but I'm not going to double wick it.

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Testing the 6 oz tin today and tried the Premier 770 in it. Burned for 3 hrs last night and it only had slight wax left around the edge with a thin mushroom. Using a blend of Icy Peppermint KY and Candy Cane from BG with liquid red. The flame is large but no soot rising from it, with a 1 3/4" melt area after 1 hr. We'll see how it does with this second burn as far as catching up and cleaning the sides completely.

This scent was giving me a black soot with the CD14 yet the melt pool was not too deep and a huge fat mushroom.

Going to post a copy of this to the Premier wick thread.

Edited** to change the size of the tim to 6oz not 8 oz......

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I haven't had a chance yet to make a candle with this 449. Yet so far in the threads there hasn't been a whole lot of discussion about wicking. I was just wondering if any of you are wicking the same as usual or wicking up or down?

Just looking for a reference point right now. I use the 9oz hex jar and wick with HTP 104 usually. If the ones I make turn out with the tops I've seen so far I think I'll be changing waxes.

TIA

John

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