CandlesforConnie Posted November 30, 2010 Share Posted November 30, 2010 I poured my first candle two days ago. This is what I used:Libbey Cylinder 22 ounce container (diameter: 3.75")EcoSoya CB Xcel 16 ouncesFragrance Oil 1.5 ouncesLiquid DyeUV Light StabilizerECO-14 6" WickI started test-burning the candle @ 4pm today (four hours ago). My melt pool hasn't reached the sides of the container yet. It is close, but not quite there. Everything else about the candle is fine (color good; wick good - no mushrooming, flickering, smoking or soot; no wetspots; surface perfect - no cracks or frosting; good CT & HT; good flame height). The only other thing that I noticed was that after the candle was lit, there were small beads of oil on the surface (which I know is from using too much FO). I am going to change the amount of FO to 1 ounce per 16 ounces of wax. Will that also correct my melt pool not being quite full?Thanks for "listening". Any advice is appreciated.Becky"Candles for Connie"Happily making candles in memory of my mom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soy327 Posted November 30, 2010 Share Posted November 30, 2010 IMO you don't need to get a full melt pool on the 1st burn, or the 2nd, maybe not the 3rd. It should clean the jar on the way down. I only use 6% in 464/xcel mix or 1oz PP. You might wanna back down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CandlesforConnie Posted November 30, 2010 Author Share Posted November 30, 2010 Thanks, Soy327! It is a relief to know that my candle isn't ruined due to not reaching full melt point during first burn. I was afraid that I would have to order new wicks, pay for them, and then wait for the shipment.Now I will go ahead and make another candle. THANKS AGAIN!IMO you don't need to get a full melt pool on the 1st burn, or the 2nd, maybe not the 3rd. It should clean the jar on the way down. I only use 6% in 464/xcel mix or 1oz PP. You might wanna back down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soy327 Posted November 30, 2010 Share Posted November 30, 2010 Your welcome, Take pics if you can I would love to see them. Keep us posted on the progress too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricofAZ Posted November 30, 2010 Share Posted November 30, 2010 I agree with Soy, getting a wall to wall pool on the first burn is not necessary. Also, you have a pretty wide jar and while the wider pool does tend to have a better HT, its tough to wick. Sounds like you're off to a good start. I don't think the sweating is the cause of the pool diameter being what you report. I think pool diameter is a function of heat and wax density. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CandlesforConnie Posted November 30, 2010 Author Share Posted November 30, 2010 Your welcome, Take pics if you can I would love to see them. Keep us posted on the progress too.Soy327, I will have to wait on my husband to take pictures... I don't want to try figuring out his camera. As soon as I do get pictures, I will make sure to share them. I really appreciate your input, Soy327! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CandlesforConnie Posted November 30, 2010 Author Share Posted November 30, 2010 ErikoFaz, thanks for the help. It is much appreciated! :smiley2: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricofAZ Posted November 30, 2010 Share Posted November 30, 2010 I probably should say that additives do alter the wax properties so your melt pool diameter does change. And, i think that the more FO, the larger the melt pool for a given wick, so if you cut back FO, you "might" use a larger wick, but likely the difference will be negligable.I don't know how the UV effects the wax burn, I don't use it. I do know that if I use vybar, I have to increase the wick size and increase the heat. Sometimes this is not good in containers so I tend to not use additives in containers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisR Posted November 30, 2010 Share Posted November 30, 2010 I don't know how the UV effects the wax burn, I don't use it. UV and powdered mold release have never affected the burns of any candles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Candybee Posted November 30, 2010 Share Posted November 30, 2010 You should burn the candle all the way down to see how it burns at the bottom of the jar. Many jar candles the wax will catch up and burn down the sides as it nears the bottom. I never wick a candle to get full melt pool on the 1st burn as thats not my goal. I want my candle to burn all the way down with as complete wax consumption as possible, no visable soot or smoking, and not being so hot to the touch you can't pick up the jar.You are lucky to get great H&C throw on your first candle. Especially after only a 2 day cure. Soy can be frustrating to work with as not all FOs work well in soy and some can take a week or more to cure in the wax. You can use up to 1.5 oz FO per lb with Ecosoya Excel. Some soy candle makers often use that amount of FO on certain FOs. I would start out with 6% FO load (about 1 oz pp of wax) to test then go up from there if needed.Sounds like you are starting off pretty good if your only problem is not achieving a full melt pool on your first burn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CandlesforConnie Posted November 30, 2010 Author Share Posted November 30, 2010 Thank you ALL so much! I have been reading the threads/postings over the past three days. I started researching candle making two months ago - reading, reading and reading some more. I wish I had started my research HERE... everyone is extremely knowledgeable. I appreciate all of the time and effort it took to respond to my posting. THANK YOU!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flowerbaby Posted December 2, 2010 Share Posted December 2, 2010 What is the main cause of sooting? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flowerbaby Posted December 2, 2010 Share Posted December 2, 2010 I have more problems with glass adhesion or "wet spots" in the winter time, do you have any suggestions to help this issue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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