Naturewax Elite-200

[blt212]

I just heard Elevance came out with a new soy container blend that is supposed to address frosting, sinkholes, wetspots and still have a good HT and CT called Elite-200. Comes in slab form. Am I dreaming this or what!! Anyone try it yet??

Thx

Brenda

[asands]

I'd be interested in trying it. I'm using c-3 and love the HT/CT. I've figured out how to prevent sinkholes and frosting but I can't stand the bubbles. Maybe the elite-200 will be bubble-free?!

How do you get a sample? Through Elevance or a distributor?

[blt212]

You're doing better then me......the frosting still crops up on the reds and browns from time to time especially if they experience temp fluctuations like being at a farmer's market. You can check with Elevance but I heard Genwax is carrying it now too.

[asands]

I don't dye my wax so maybe that's why I'm having better luck with frosting? Plus I do add USA.

Do you get bubbles with c-3?

[blt212]

There were some boxes that I had gotten that were really bad with the bubbles but I haven't gotten one in awhile. I did find that heating a bit higher helped as well as pouring really slow from the melter and from the pouring pots into the jars. I would also use my heat gun to heat the top of the wax in both the melter and pouring pots and it would remove the surface bubbles. I do not get frost on my undyed candles but just can't seem to make the switch to having everything undyed....when I see a Mac Apple candle, I want it to be red but that's me.....

[asands]

I can understand it being hard to switch from dyed to undyed! I personally like it, as do my customers but a lot of folks prefer dyed.

I get the bubbles only while burning. The melt pool is bubbly. Guess it's not a showstopper but it's not as perfect as I'd like.

I'm going to give Elevance a call and see if I can give their new wax a try... might be worth a test-run.

[KrisB]

It's got no fat bloom no glass adhesion, good throw and list goes on from there. I like that you can hand pour or run on an automated line too. Has anyone tested this?

Edited August 4, 2010 by KrisB

[asands]

I'm getting a sample this week. Will let you know what I find.

[soy327]

Have you got the sample? and keep us posted please. Maybe you can share where you ordered it from. I did a search on google and couldn't find a thing.:rolleyes2

[asands]

Got the sample and have made several test candles. You can get the sample by contacting Elevance. http://www.elevance.com/

The Elite 200 is nice. It sets up beautifully. Perfectly smooth tops. I think the ht/ct is on par with C3. I didn't add any additives to the Elite 200 as do with C3.

I haven't noticed any frosting. My candles are undyed but I still see frosting with C3. This wax didn't show any frosting.

It does pull away from the container. If you are looking for good adhesion, this wax isn't for you.

IMO (I am not an expert so take this with a grain of salt) I think this wax is harder than the other soy waxes I've worked with. The wick's flame was anemic, sometimes I wondered if it was going to stay lit. I would definitely need to wick up with this wax as I didn't get the normal melt pool. The day after my first burn of 4 hours or so, the wax had cracked in half along the line of the wick, right through the middle. It reminded me of what happens when you mix too much beeswax with soy.

The look of the wax is great. Nice and smooth and no bubbles. I get bubbles in the melt pool with C3.

Not sure it's the right wax for me, but it's worth a test if you are interested.

HTH!

[blt212]

I received a sample and poured a couple of testers. Heated to about 190F, added FO and Dye and poured at about 170F. I did not preheat the jars as they recommend. Supposedly you can skip that step if you pour hotter. I used a 16oz mason and an 11oz tumbler. I dyed the mason with CS red dye chips to test for frosting. Both candles setup nicely....the tops were smooth with a little concave dip in the center. No cracks or sinkholes....It's pretty common for me to get a sinkhole near the wick with the 16oz masons using C3. As I poked around with a toothpick to check with air pockets in both candles, I was surprised at how dense the wax felt. So that seems like a good thing. However as they cooled and I saw the complete pull away thing, I'm not so sure I like that look. It doesn't look awful in the mason but in the tumbler, it gives it that strange curved bottom you get if you get a really big wet spot. For the heck of it, I heat gunned the top of the mason and the melted wax poured down the side of the glass in the air space that's shrunken away from the jar. Based on that I think a full MP is going to create a strange effect but I guess that will wait until I test burn. I'm wondering what kind of containers this wax is used in most often. I will report back once I test burn for HT. The CT is good.......oh, and so far no frosting in the red but we all know that can change at any time especially with temp fluctuations. I actually have it solved when I store them but have had a retail customers report frosting. He did admit his store temp fluctuates quite a bit between a/c on and off times.

Pause...

Have begun to test burn.....The HT is good. the mason jar wicking is about the same as it was with C3...would have to wickup in the tumbler but I've already decided I would not use this wax in the tumbler because of the complete pull away. However, it really does burn nice in the mason...the tops are also smooth after burning. The MP didn't run down the sides of the jar...the adhesion kind of comes and goes as it burns and warms up but it doesn't really look that much different than C3 with some wet spots. I just love that there's no sink hole. It also burns slower than C3 and the flame was nice. I'm going to make a few more candles in the mason with scents I know throw well and compare.

Negative right now is Genwax is the only one carrying it and I'm in CT so that might be a problem.

[safetysue]

I contacted Elevance and asked about getting a sample of this wax which they shipped today. I express my frustrations with the dreaded sink holes I’m getting with C3.

I have been forwarded your request for a sample of our new wax. We just launched the Elite-200 at the NCA conference last month, so it is still very new. We have tested it with numerous customers on automated lines, but have just recently started sampling smaller, hand-pour manufacturers. I’d like to tell you a little more about the wax to make sure you’d still be interested in testing it.

The E-200 is 100% soy. If cooled correctly, it will have complete pull away and minimal sink in the center. It can be run down an automated line or hand poured. It can handle up to 12% fragrance, depending on the fragrance. I have attached the handling instructions, but I get my best results when I pour E-200 at 165F into a preheated jar (160-170F), rip the wick when the center is slightly set up and re-melt the top before the candle pulls away from the sides of the jar. My lab is usually between 70-75F with relatively low humidity.

As they are currently written, the handling instructions are general and came from our experiences in the lab and on automated lines. Every customer has a unique set up, so I can help you tweak your processing conditions if you have any issues. For example, we are finding that a lot of smaller, hand-pour manufacturers do not wish to preheat their jars…. So I would recommend pouring around 180F.

As with C-3, we do sell directly, but only on orders of a pallet or more. Currently there is only one distributor selling the E-200, and this is General Wax in the Los Angeles area.

I then asked about the time line for re-melting the tops and received this response:

The time it takes E-200 to pull away from the jar will vary greatly depending on the size and type of jar. We do most of our testing in a 3.5 inch diameter cylinder jar and I will rip the wicks after about an hour and a half, let them set up for about 10 minutes and then re-melt the top. You can tell when it is time to re-melt because it looks solid on top, but you can tell that the center of the candle is still dark. The center will still be semi-solid when you rip the wick, and a little more set up when you re-melt. If the candle has pulled away on the top, it will run down the sides a little when you re-melt.

I think that you will find that the E-200 is much easier to work with than C-3. You do not have to baby it as much. We have even run it down an automated line as a single pour on smaller containers (so ripping the wick and re-melting the top is not always necessary, but if you don’t do that you will have to control the cooling rate more closely). The E-200 can also be used for votives.

[craftsmaster]

If you fill these holes any higher, you may cause a visible horizontal seam line on the exterior of the finished candle. Overfilling may also cause the wax to seep between the mold and the candle. This would affect the attractiveness of the finish.

__________________

They say confession is good for the soul. I'm not sure that's true, but I do have a confession to make: I am not a naturally born craft aficionado.

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[pixie]

What does "riping the wick" mean?

[Abbiepql]

I believe it is when you pour into your container, and let your wick lay where it will, in other words do not use a wick clip. After the wax sets up enough to hold the wick straight, while the wax is still soft - you pull the end of the wick towards the center, creating a rut or opening which will be filled when you do your repour. I do it with my votives that require a repour. Since most soys do not require a repour this would be a change in procedure for most - and a PITA if it leaves large voids on the sides as the repour will drip down into them - hm...interesting?

[bramoncada]

how does this wax compare to GB 464??

Edited September 27, 2010 by bramoncada

[sherley77]

Hello,

I've been testing the elite as well. I love how the smooth tops are, but the sides are horrible. They told me the same thing, so preheat the jars or pour hotter. Preheating the jars really is an option for me bc I pour way to many candles to have to add another step. So I did pour hotter and it didn't work. I tested two fragrances with this wax and I got a great cold and hot throw. I did just pour an essential oil and didn't get much throw, but I think I just need to re wick my container. They did tell me to add soy methyl ester to the wax if I want to get glass adhesion. I have not yet ordered it, but I will today. Please let me know if you have gotten any better results from your testing.

thanks

[Tainakite]

Hi Sherley77,

I have been trying to post in the classified adds and since I am a new member with less than 30 days I can't. I want to buy some of the 50 pounds 464 wax you have and I have no way to write to you.

(Please please admin don't delete my message yet let her see my message please)

[lmc]

Tempering C3 will eliminate the bubble issue.

[sherley77]

Hi, I am just seeing this message. I still have 13 cases left if you are still interested.

Thanks

[Bells Bells]

Tempering C3 will eliminate the bubble issue.

That was the exact answer I was looking for lmc! Thank you!!