OK, Here I Go!!

[bah67]

OK I just completed the test burn of the 444 with a CD 12. I am almost at a FMP. I know that I have read on here that sometimes it takes 2-3 burns until you achieve a FMP all across the top. It is about 1/4-3/8" deep and the sides are starting to melt down. And I am getting a really good HT today!!! I guess my nose stopped working yesterday lol.

Test Burn #1- 3 Hours

Test Burn #2- 3.5 Hours

Test Burn #2-3.25 Hours

Is this correct? Am I heading in the right direction? How does this look?

[topofmurrayhill]

Looks promising--keep going. There's plenty of time for that hangup to melt down. See what happens with the air currents as you get towards the middle. The flame will be moving around more and you'll want to see if there's soot.

[bah67]

Looks promising--keep going. There's plenty of time for that hangup to melt down. See what happens with the air currents as you get towards the middle. The flame will be moving around more and you'll want to see if there's soot.

Ok, thanks for the input Tops. I am doing another burn (#4) right now. Some of the hangup is melting so it does look promising. I will keep my fingers crossed! It looks like it is sooooo close.

Edited February 8, 2010 by bah67

[bah67]

I did another test burn today before work with the CD12 in the 444. The hangup is starting to go away, not completely but it's getting there.

One question (I know it can take a few burns to achieve a FMP), should I try a CD14 just for the heck of it or is this how a soy candle actually burns in the real world? LOL I actually think a CD14 would make the glass too hot, but I would like to try since I am experimenting.

I am curious if others peoples candles takes 5 or 6 burns to achieve this? I am thinking that the next burn (tomorrow morning) will achieve this.

Oh, I almost forgot, I poured some more candles yesterday using CD12s in frosted tumblers. Stella I am going to be patient and let them cure for 5 days:D. I also used 9% FO this time just to experiement. I used the 415 and the tops came out FANTASTIC, very smooth. I made 5 and on one I added CO 1/2 tsp to 8oz of wax, at this time I cannot see any visual different in the appearance of the wax. I have no reason to even use my heat gun. Although there were some wet spots, but too noticeable.

What is a good way to achieve no wet spots? Will adding USA help?

Edited February 9, 2010 by bah67

[Stella1952]

should I try a CD14 just for the heck of it or is this how a soy candle actually burns in the real world? LOL I actually think a CD14 would make the glass too hot, but I would like to try since I am experimenting.

Since you are experimenting, there is no harm in trying nearly anything - it ain't like makin' homemade dynamite in your kitchen! But it sure does seem like a lotta wick for that diameter container...

I am curious if others peoples candles takes 5 or 6 burns to achieve this?

My candles hit FMP the second burn - sometimes the first. BUT... I do not use the same wax as you, the same wicks as you nor the same containers as you. It seems like some soys need more wick than mine does. The container diameter, shape & size have a lot to do with this. The AIR temperature where you are burning factors in... in case no one has noticed, it's COLD out there and it's colder and less humid in many of our homes than in spring, summer & fall... this makes a difference in how the candle burns because the ambient air is cooling the candle at the same time as the wick is heating it up. The colder the ambient temp, the more the wick has to work to melt the wax. In the summertime, I have to wick down to prevent some of my candles from burning too fast...

I also used 9% FO this time just to experiement

Just an observation... before you go switching things up, shouldn't you get a candle that burns to your satisfaction first? Jumping around when experimenting produces loads of data that make little or no sense... Try working on one thing at a time, getting that worked out, then going to the next... Maybe you can keep track of testing 3 waxes in two different containers with 3 or more different sized wicks with and without additives with several different FOs, pouring at different temps, etc., but I'm getting a headache just trying to keep up with this!! *faint* The idea is to learn how to make a successful candle, not to rush through as many different experiments as possible in a two week period!

[bah67]

I would have a headache also. lol It would probably cause some to go crazy, but I usually have alot going on at work and I guess that translate to my personal and hobby life. My thinking is to try different possibilities and see how they all work, what does well at a low FO %, curing, etc. and then tweek them to put all the good ideas that work into one. I know that it may be impossible to achieve, but I like a good challenge. Plus it helps me to actually compare them to the same amount of burns, etc. Hope this makes sense.

I take alot of notes also but in the end I am a very visual person, so I like to test and compare things side by side so I have it fresh in my mind. Even after a couple of months I can read my notes look at pics etc, and still have questions about what did that little area look like. Some say I am very anal about things, ok about ALOT of things LOL, and I am the first to admit it too!!

I figured that season would affect how it would burn, but was not sure to what degree.

But I do understand what you are saying and where you are coming from also. I appreciate all the help and input.

[Stella1952]

More power to ya, dear. I'll try to keep up!

[bah67]

Stella, I went a little slower today! I did another test burn on the 444/CD12 and got a FMP. I think that was the 6th burn. But I am not sure if I like the 444 after it is burned, it has some tiny craters. But I will test it to the end to see how it performs.

I also tested the 464 today for the first time with a CD10 (I poured it last Thursday) It reached a full melt pool at 3 hours. I suppose that is due to the lower melting point of the 464 (used the same FO and amount of FO in the 444). So that wick may be too large. It did have a mushroom but burned great. The hot thorw was nice, not great. I do have a 464 with the same FO with a CD8 that I will test later this week.

And my 415 with a CD10 is just tunneling, I did let it burn for 3.5 hours but its getting to the halfway point and the hangup is too much a little over 1/4" thick all around. So I am excited totest the 415's that I poured Sunday.....but I am letting them cure to at least Friday, possibly Saturday.

The 415 is what I think I will like to work with most becasue of the last few times they set up better, but until I test them this coming weekend I will continue with my testing of the 444 and 464. Because I may decide I like one of the others better after all these tests are done....boy is this exciting....decision, decisions, decisions!!

[bah67]

Just an update. I let the 415 cure for 5 days and did a test burn early Friday morning with the CD12s in the tumblers. The first burn did really well. I actually tested 2 different FOs, Fig Tree and Cool Citrus Basil at 9%(late Friday afternoon). They had great CT, the hot throw was so-so in both.

I did a second burn today and they flame is very low, so I stopped after 2 hours. Also i did not get much of a melt pool, nothing close the the first burn in the same amount of time. And I am not happy with the HT at all, the Fig did better than the Cool Citrus Basil. (They both had a very low flame in the second burn.)

Tomorrow I am going to remelt the wax and try a CD14 and also will try one or 2 of the HTP wicks to see how they work. And while I am remelting wax, I am going to remelt some of my other testers and use different wicks to see how they work also.

Is it common to go to a CD14 in a 2.5"D tumbler? Just curious, so far the 415 was poured very well with very smooth tops, etc. while the 444 and 464 have had terrible tops and craters. Now if I can only get the wicking down!!

Also between the 415, 444 and 464 do most of you get a better CT & HT with the 415 than the 444 and 464?

[Stella1952]

I did a second burn today and they flame is very low, so I stopped after 2 hours.

Unless the wick drowns or becomes an absolute torch, keep testing regardless. Things change during the course of testing and it's important to continue... I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say I think the 9% FO is causing you problems... more is not better... extra FO can make the wax more difficult for the wick to burn cleanly, thereby negating any benefit you sought by using the higher percentage. With a low flame and a tiny melt pool, your wax isn't heating up much for the FO to throw very strongly...

I don't use 415, so I can't say whether a 14 is needed or not. I use a CDN 12-14 in a 3" (inside diameter) canning jar with NatureWax C3 with 1 Tbsp/pp of USA and 1 oz/pp FO and a few drops of liquid dye/pp.

Also between the 415, 444 and 464 do most of you get a better CT & HT with the 415 than the 444 and 464?

I predict varying opinions on this... The only way one could conclusively make such a comparison is to use the exact same FO, wicks & containers in a side-by-side test... And even among those, the opinions will vary by wick type, FO & supplier... Edited February 14, 2010 by Stella1952

[bah67]

Thanks Stella. I will continue testing them. I did a couple more searches and have found a few threads where people used CD16s and CD18s in tumblers. I think I may have started low on my wicking after reading the wick-it guide again. I think I am on the right track.

So I will continue and see what happens with these. I would really like to use the least amount of FO as possible and get the best CT & HT.

So I am learning alot and starting to understand all this. Even with all my research you never know or really understand until you actually start doing it! Thanks.

[bah67]

On Sunday I remelted a couple of the candles that I first tested with the CD8s (which were way too small). Anyway I was wondering do you have to cure them all over again when you remelt them?

When I remelted them I did it the same as if I were making new candles.

I was just wondering if when remelting, you loose the cure time since it goes back to the liquid form. I heated them back to 185*. and poured when it got cloudy. TIA

[soy327]

Yes I would let them cure again for at least 48 hrs before test burn. I am now letting mine cure for a week. It's really hard to wait.

Linda

[Stella1952]

Anyway I was wondering do you have to cure them all over again when you remelt them?

Waiting 48 hours is simply to allow the newly formed wax crystals to harden so you get a good wick test. It's the MINIMUM time for fragrance curing. For testing HT, it's best to wait 5-7 days. Some FOs will throw like crazy at 2 days; others take up to 10 days to develop in the wax.

I don't remelt wax for testing wicks or hot throw - I make a new candle because I want accurate results. I use the same materials (except for the adhesive used to stick down the wick tab and the container itself is probably reused) that I use in a candle I intend to sell. If I have leftover wax from testers, I may save the wax to remelt for projects for myself, but I don't use it for testing.

[bah67]

Thanks Linda and Stella, I was just curious about the cure time if you remelted the wax. I had used CD8s which were way, way too small and did not want to waste it. I figured it would have to cure the same amount of time but thought I would ask.

I think I almost have the wicking down and can adjust per FO that I use. But I will see how the rest of the burn tests go.

[soy327]

You must send pictures please.

Linda

[Stella1952]

Lotsa folks feel like they shouldn't "waste wax," but for me, wax is never wasted! The wax in the candle in my avatar, for example, was leftover from other pours. I am a candle freak and try new projects & techniques with my leftovers to please myself (and to keep me from burning my stock!). If the "Stella projects" are successful, I sometimes incorporate them into the lines of candles that I sell, but product testing is always done with new materials before something joins the lineup.

What matters is that you are enjoying what you are doing and making progress toward your goals!

[bah67]

I am going to pour a couple new testers today. Hoping to get the wicking down.

It seems the tumblers are tricky to wick for some reason. Oh well, but I fell I am getting closer!

I will take some pics of the finished product.

[bah67]

Well I think (keeping my fingers crossed...knocking on wood...etc) I have finally found the right wick for the tumblers!! It is on its 3rd burn right now and is doing well with a CD16. The FO is Vanilla Hazelnut @ 9%--the 1oz pp did not get a great hot throw. I have another one with a CD18 (just in case the 16 didn't cut it). I will still test the CD18 just to see how it does.

And my testers for my jelly jars are doing well also. I am burning one with a CD14 with the FO Carmelized Pralines at 7% and it is doing really well with HT & CT. It almost makes me want to eat it! I also made one with a CD12 and will test next week.

[mzpickles]

Well, I started making my own candles back before Thanksgiving and compared to the OP I'm all over the place! I just wanted to say one thing to her though, the Fig Tree from CS is incredible. If you like fragrances like L’Artisan Premier Figuier or Diptyque Philosykos then you'll love this FO!

[bah67]

Here are a few pics from my testers that I poured on 2.14. The first two are the jelly jars with a CD14 (7%) Carmalized Praline (CS) and are on their 8th burn. And the HT is fantastic I want to get a spoon and eat it!! it is sooooo buttery.

Here is the 80z tumbler with Vanilla Hazelnut (CS) (9%) with CD16. It's on its 8th burn also. Great HT too!

It seems to me they are doing well, although not to a FMP yet....but close. Should it take 8 or 9 burns to get a FMP with 415? There is still a little hangup on the sides but it is melting nicely!

Thought I would get everyone's opinions and comments on how I am coming along. TIA

Also I poured a few new ones yesterday...Star Anise and Lilac from Filmore, Pomagranate (Henri Bendel) from Candlewic, Hot Maple Toddy and Cocanut Lime Verbena from the Candlemakers Store. So far the CT is good in most, but will give them a good 5-7 days cure time. Perfect tops, nice and smooth, only 1 had wet spots............What is the best way to deal with wet spots? Or with 100% soy do you just live with it. I really like the idea of not adding any additives if possible.

I still have a few to test from my 2.19 pour!!! Wildberry Mousse (CS) is great CT & HT. Strawberry Rhubarb (Rustic Essentials) is great too, both CT & HT. I have only tested them both a few times, since there are only so many hours in a day.

Edited March 4, 2010 by bah67

[soy327]

I think those are looking great 8th burn :yay:I think you are one the right track, cause I see a little on the inside of the jar and by the time it's burned down, Perfect. You said a cd16 in a tumbler 3". let's see what the OP think cause I'm no expert by any means.

I have to honestly say you are hangin in there and serious, more power to ya.:highfive:

Linda

[soy327]

sent you a pm

[bah67]

The latest testing........

Here are a few pics of the jelly jar, CD14 with Caramelized Pralines (9%). I think I can get 2 more burns before the end. I am going to start testing one with a CD12 just to see how it does in that size jars.

I forgot to take a pic of the Vanilla Hazelnut, CD16 in the frosted tumbler. It is to the end and had no hangup and burned well. I did test a CD14 with Fig Tree and it burned well also.

One question, when they burn about the same, which wick do you choose?