Ravens Posted January 10, 2010 Share Posted January 10, 2010 After much hesitation, I took the plunge tonight and poured my very first tin candles!Here's what I did - and please feel free to critique, for that's how we beginners learn!The 8oz. tins are from CS. The fragrance I used is the Cranberry Apple Marmalade from Peak's.First tin: straight CBL 129, 1/4 teaspon vybar, heated to 190, added oil, stirred, poured. Wick used: zinc 51-32-18.Second tin: C-3 with 1 tsp. CO (one pound of wax). Heated to 180, add FO, stirred, poured. Wick used CD 14.Third tin: IGI 4630. Heated to 180, add FO, stirred, poured. Wick used: CD 12.Did not use any dyes, did not preheat the tins. Stirred all waxes for a full 2 minutes (it may sound crazy, but I did use a timer). All setting right now.I was tempted to try another tin with the GB 415, but have no idea which wick would work best with this wax.Oh, I poured 2 tins of each. My question now is, how long should I wait before I test them? When I do test, do I just light them and let them go until there's no wax left to burn? What should I pay close attention to during the testing process? Thank you for any help you can give! :smiley2: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted January 10, 2010 Share Posted January 10, 2010 (edited) Just curious - what was the pouring temp? When you add FO (unless it is prewarmed), it drops the temp in the pouring pot so you couldn't have been pouring at the same temp you added the FO... Actual pour temp is an important value to know... How much FO did you use per pound?The 8oz. tins are from CSWhile many folks know the inside dimensions of common containers, many do not keep that info in their heads! It is more important to note the inside diameter & depth (and shape, if applicable) than the capacity size (8 oz.)... There are 8 oz. deep tins and 8 oz. wide ones - they have different inside diameters and different depths... If ya want folks to be able to help you, you wanna give them as much specific info as you can 'cause most are not gonna take the time to look up the dimensions of a container on a supplier's site, KWIM? I was tempted to try another tin with the GB 415, but have no idea which wick would work best with this wax.Since both C3 & 415 are soy waxes, it stands to reason that the wick size might be similar. Since 415 has a lower melt point than C3, it might take a smaller wick size... That's how I would reason it... Specific info about veggie wax candles is usually found in the veggie wax forum.My question now is, how long should I wait before I test them?I dunno about the other waxes 'cause I don't use 'em, but for NatureWax C3, I usually wait 5-7 days to give the FO a chance to cure. Some FOs throw well after a short period of time, but other more subtle scents take longer to develop. I never test anything earlier than 48 hours after pouring.When I do test, do I just light them and let them go until there's no wax left to burn? What should I pay close attention to during the testing process?Those questions and more were answered in your thread about taking notes. Searching the forum will yield many suggestions about how to test candles. Choose a draft-free location in a normal sized room. Test one candle at a time in the same room; you won't be able to tell much about the throw if you have a buttload of 'em lit all at once...You also did not mention how you are cooling your candles. This makes a BIG difference with soy candles, especially in miserably COLD weather!Good luck & have FUN! Edited January 10, 2010 by Stella1952 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ravens Posted January 10, 2010 Author Share Posted January 10, 2010 Stella, the top and bottom diameter of the 8oz tins is 3 inches, the depth is 1-3/4 inches.When I poured the wax in the Presto pot into the pouring pitcher, I took the temp again and it was a little over 170.Oh, I forgot to mention that I did pour 2 testers using the GB 415.For all tester candles, I used one pound of wax and 1.2 oz. FOToday I looked at them. As far as smooth tops, the 4630 is the best looking one, followed by the C3. Next is the CBL 129, but it dips in the middle, otherwise it has a very nice smooth top. The GB 415 looks lousy; the tops are rough, with pit marks. I will wait until the end of the week to test them (will that be long enough?)For now, the CBL 129 has the best CT, followed by the 415.If i want to smooth the tops of the 415, will a hairdryer do, or should I use a heat gun? If a heat gun is recommended, who has the best prices (I'm just a beginner, so I don't think I need the cadillac of heat guns).:smiley2: Thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burnt_fingers Posted January 10, 2010 Share Posted January 10, 2010 If i want to smooth the tops of the 415, will a hairdryer do, or should I use a heat gun? If a heat gun is recommended, who has the best prices (I'm just a beginner, so I don't think I need the cadillac of heat guns).:smiley2: Thank you!I would not recommend a hair dryer. I did that and the force of the air splattered the wax everywhere. I went with a heat gun from Wally World (Walmart) for under $20 with two settings. (700 and 1000 watts). The other alternative is to save some wax from your pouring, reheat to 5 to 10 degrees above your first pour temp and fill just enough to smooth out the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
radellaf Posted January 10, 2010 Share Posted January 10, 2010 I use a mini blowtorch. Have to be careful not to singe the wick, but I find it very useful for touching up wax. Too slow for production work, of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ravens Posted January 10, 2010 Author Share Posted January 10, 2010 Burnt_fingers, thank you! I will check at Wally's for a heat gun. Radellaf, with my luck, I will end up making a big mess, singing the wick, etc. etc. Production - like selling, you mean? well, I have years to go, I'm sure:whistle: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
candlelady Posted January 11, 2010 Share Posted January 11, 2010 IMO, please pay attn. not only to how they burn, etc.... in the testing, but, I've not delved into tins, but only once, for someone that wanted a wholesale acct with me for tins only. I tested the 8 oz and 16 oz. from BCS and after testing, decided to forgo the acct. I'm just not comfortable with the heat generated on the container. That's JMO only.Way too much heat for my personal comfort level.I'll stick to my jars.Again, only my opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ravens Posted January 11, 2010 Author Share Posted January 11, 2010 Candlelady, that's one of my (many) concerns, that the tins may get too hot. As a very green beginner I'd better wait and see what the more experienced members have to say about it. Thank you for your input/opinion! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
candlelady Posted January 11, 2010 Share Posted January 11, 2010 (edited) Candlelady, that's one of my (many) concerns, that the tins may get too hot. As a very green beginner I'd better wait and see what the more experienced members have to say about it. Thank you for your input/opinion!"more experienced members?"WTH?I've been in the biz for now 8 years...geezDidn't know I was green!You ask for input, I gave it.....what made you think I'm not experienced? Just curious..... Edited January 11, 2010 by candlelady Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ravens Posted January 11, 2010 Author Share Posted January 11, 2010 I'm sorry Candlelady!When I typed that, I was referring to myself, not you. You're obviously experienced, but as a beginner I just want to hear from several seasoned members. I am so very sorry if what I wrote offended you, I really am. Please accept my apologies and I will try to check when I write before posting... wouldn't want this to happen again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ravens Posted January 11, 2010 Author Share Posted January 11, 2010 This is weird, but it's happening to my C3 tins. A circular ring is forming, very very close to the wick, with a bit of wax rising up right around the wick. And what's even more weird is that only the tin with the CD 10 has this problem (if it is a problem), while the other one - where I used a CDN 14 - looks perfect. Any idea as to what may be happening? Can it be fixed? :confused: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted January 11, 2010 Share Posted January 11, 2010 A circular ring is forming, very very close to the wick, with a bit of wax rising up right around the wick.This could simply be the wax in the immediate area of the wick contracting or it could be a volcano! A picture is worth a thousand words! Sometimes the wax clings to the wick and cracks right around the wick. This is easily remedied with a heatgun. Sometimes one can smooth it with one's fingers. If I am getting the right picture from your words, this is not a serious issue.When I poured the wax in the Presto pot into the pouring pitcher, I took the temp again and it was a little over 170.Again, I am confused. Did you add the FO to the Presto or to the pour pot? Pouring temp is the temp of the wax when you pour it into the container... For all tester candles, I used one pound of wax and 1.2 oz. FOJust curious - any particular reason you settled on 1.2 oz. for all the different wax types you are testing?As far as smooth tops, the 4630 is the best looking one, followed by the C3. Next is the CBL 129, but it dips in the middle, otherwise it has a very nice smooth top. The GB 415 looks lousy; the tops are rough, with pit marks.Some waxes are formulated to have smoother tops than do others, but how one handles the wax and cools them has a great deal to do with this! It's hard to work with so many waxes at once because they do not all *like* being handled the same way. For best results, one has to learn to conform to what the particular wax needs for best performance, not try to make the wax conform to the same standards used for another wax... One size doesn't fit all! I will wait until the end of the week to test them (will that be long enough?)Again, for specifics on veggie waxes, you would be better served to search or ask in the veggie wax forum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maggie Posted January 11, 2010 Share Posted January 11, 2010 One question...CBL129 is a preblended wax...why did you add vybar?I used to use that wax a long time ago and never added anything to it. I can't remember now why I stopped using it...lol. If you are up for trying another wax...give Candlewic's CBL130 a try. I've been using this parasoy blend for almost 2 years now and I LOVE it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ravens Posted January 11, 2010 Author Share Posted January 11, 2010 Stella, I added the FO to the wax in the Presto pot, then in the pouring pitcher and took the temp again.I know, kinda puzzling about the 1.2 oz. FO to the pound of wax. I was deciding whether to add one oz. or 1.5oz., so I settled for something in-between.I will look for instructions on how to upload pics on these forums.Maggie, you're right, CBL 129 is pre-blended, so there may be no need to add the vybar, but I did it "just to experiment". Will not add it next time and see if it makes any difference. If I'm not mistaken, some years ago the CBL129 had issues because of too much vybar, actually...Looked at my little babies this morning; no visible changes yet. However, unless my nose is deceiving me, the cold throw seems better in the C3 than the 415. So, as far as CT goes, the best so far is the CBL 129, followed by the C3; the 4630 and the 415 are about the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maggie Posted January 11, 2010 Share Posted January 11, 2010 Now that you mention it...I remember that IS why I stopped using it. I kept getting wrinkled tops. Someone else that used this wax at the same time that I did was Vickey at KY Candle Wax Supply. We would always compare notes. We both loved the wax...and then when she became a supplier she started carrying it along with the KY125. She eventually stopped carrying the CBL129.I loved the CBL141 for votives too. Right now I use their 3035 and add vybar to stop mottling for my votives and tarts. I have been tempted to use the 141 again but have 3 cases of the 3035 here...and I pour very few votives and tarts. Anyway...it IS good to experiment. I thought maybe you added the vybar so you could use more fragrance oil in your test candle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ravens Posted January 11, 2010 Author Share Posted January 11, 2010 Maggie, what can you tell me about the 130? At this point I'm not really interested in appearance, but great HT - and if I can have great CT as well - super!:smiley2: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
volleypc Posted February 9, 2010 Share Posted February 9, 2010 I would not recommend a hair dryer. I did that and the force of the air splattered the wax everywhere. I went with a heat gun from Wally World (Walmart) for under $20 with two settings. (700 and 1000 watts). The other alternative is to save some wax from your pouring, reheat to 5 to 10 degrees above your first pour temp and fill just enough to smooth out the top.I have tried to find a heat gun at walmart and could not find one Were they in the crafts section? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted February 9, 2010 Share Posted February 9, 2010 I have tried to find a heat gun at walmart and could not find one Were they in the crafts section?I would check in Home Improvements. Did you ask anyone at the store where you shop if they carry these? Not all WalMarts stock the same merchandise... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ravens Posted February 9, 2010 Author Share Posted February 9, 2010 I bought one from Peak's; couldn't find any at the local Walmart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted February 9, 2010 Share Posted February 9, 2010 They have 'em at Lowes & Home Depot, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burnt_fingers Posted February 9, 2010 Share Posted February 9, 2010 I have tried to find a heat gun at walmart and could not find one Were they in the crafts section?I bought mine about a year ago. They were in the tool section. It is a Wagner model HT1000. Below is a picture of it from the Wagner website. When I looked online at Walmart they do not list it. It may be that it is an in store special or that WM no longer carries them. As others suggested, checkout the big box stores like Lowes or Home Depot. Other sources might be KMart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bah67 Posted February 9, 2010 Share Posted February 9, 2010 I bought the Wagner HT1000 last week at Lowes for $25. Works great. I checked Kmart and they did not carry it here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
radellaf Posted February 10, 2010 Share Posted February 10, 2010 I used one of these smaller industrial heat guns at an electronics job, and it's definitely what I'd want for a gentler and smaller stream of air. $115, but would probably last forever.Cooper Tools 6966C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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