another newbie question

[rebeccajo99]

I have been doing a lot of reading and I'm just not finding what I'm looking for.

I was wondering if you can add both goat milk and shea butter to the same bar of soap??? It seems logical to me, but then again, I'm new and have a lot to learn yet.

I always see shea butter soaps and goat milk soap, but never a shea butter goat milk soap.

Thanks in advance

[rebeccajo99]

I feel dumb.... I just found my answer :embarasse I swear, everytime I read through these forums I find new information.

I almost have my recipe put together and where I want to buy all my supplies. I'm getting excited.

[Barbara AL]

I have added both Shea Butter, Cocoa Butter and Goatsmilk to the same recipe.

HTH

Barbara AL

[Candybee]

I add goat milk, shea butter, coconut oil, olive oil, honey, and ground oatmeal for oatmeal, milk, and honey soap.

Just experiment away. There are all kinds of combos you can add to your M&P. Think about what kind of bar of soap you want and go for it.

Have fun!

[rebeccajo99]

Thanks everybody. I am kindof nervous and excited at the same time. My first bars I am thinking about doing this. Let me know what you think.

1 lb White soap base from - Essentials by Catalina

1 T Shea Butter- Thinking about ordering from Bittercreek North

1 T Goat Milk- Can get from my local health food store. Still debating between powder or liquid. Leaning towards powder so I can make it a little thicker if I want.

1 T beeswax- Thinking about ordering from Bittercreek North

1/2 oz of FO. Have not determined which one yet, but was going to see what ones I have for my candles that are skin safe and try one of those.

I did read that if bubbles are compromised from your additives that you can add Dr. Bronners or Glyseran. I can get both from my local health food store. Any suggestion on what would be better? I was not going to purchase it until I test the first recipie to see if I need to add it.

[prairieannie]

Thanks everybody. I am kindof nervous and excited at the same time. My first bars I am thinking about doing this. Let me know what you think.

1 lb White soap base from - Essentials by Catalina

1 T Shea Butter- Thinking about ordering from Bittercreek North

1 T Goat Milk- Can get from my local health food store. Still debating between powder or liquid. Leaning towards powder so I can make it a little thicker if I want.

1 T beeswax- Thinking about ordering from Bittercreek North

1/2 oz of FO. Have not determined which one yet, but was going to see what ones I have for my candles that are skin safe and try one of those.

I did read that if bubbles are compromised from your additives that you can add Dr. Bronners or Glyseran. I can get both from my local health food store. Any suggestion on what would be better? I was not going to purchase it until I test the first recipie to see if I need to add it.

Buy the Dr. Bronners.. you'll love it and you'll probably need it!

And UP the goat milk! 2 or 3 T isn't too much!! Trust me, you'll love it! I use fresh goat milk mostly, but when that's not available the powder is fine.. the liquid will definitely mix better though! Buy the concentrated, and don't dilute it!

You're picking a SUPERB base! Essentials by Catalina is the best in my book!

Have fun!

[rebeccajo99]

Buy the Dr. Bronners.. you'll love it and you'll probably need it!

And UP the goat milk! 2 or 3 T isn't too much!! Trust me, you'll love it! I use fresh goat milk mostly, but when that's not available the powder is fine.. the liquid will definitely mix better though! Buy the concentrated, and don't dilute it!

You're picking a SUPERB base! Essentials by Catalina is the best in my book!

Have fun!

Thanks for your imput. I will up the goat milk and get the dr. bronners as well. I will have to look to see if the health store sells concentrate milk. It was hard to tell from their website.

I was getting the impression that the Essentials by Catalina was going to be a good base from what I was reading on the forum. I went to thier website and got disappointed that they were in CA and I live in MI. I thought shipping was going to kill me on it. I then moseied around the site a little more and noticed that they did flat rate shipping just for people like me!!! I still priced checked a bunch of other places for base and Essentials beat them because of the shipping. My neighbor is getting excited that I am going to be doing soaps again, she really wants me to make one for her bathroom. So, after I get this recipie down the way I want it, I'll be starting to play with colors and swirls to get the one she wants.

I know I have to get insurance first before giving them out for testing. I have my insurance for candles, hopefully it doesn't add to much to add the soap to it

[lsbennis]

Not trying to hijack this thread but was just curious....what type of Dr Bronners do you buy?

[rebeccajo99]

I have not baughten it yet, so hopefully somebody with experience will chime in. Here is the link of the one that I was looking at. This is a large jug, but my health food store does sell it in smaller ones as well. I don't know if I will actually need one this big.

http://www.harvesthealthfoods.com/shop/product_view.asp?id=25711&StoreID=D39CDD6AEE6A4EE3AE47751D86880EB6&private_product=0

[lsbennis]

Thanks Rebeccajo....I have seen that at whole foods and other health food stores also...how much would you suggest using per pound?

[Candybee]

I bought the liquid unscented Pure Castile soap from Dr. Bonners. It didn't seem to have any positive sudsy effects on my soap so I quit using it.

Your best bet is to try out different M&P bases and from different suppliers. That way you can find which bases are the best for your applications.

I would cut off a piece of the M&P and use it first to wash with before melting it and definitely before starting to make any soap recipes using additives. You want to know how your base base works without additives. Then you can experiment with different additives so you know which ones work or don't work for you.

[rebeccajo99]

I have no clue on how much to use. I have not even ordered my first supplies yet, so I am not the best one to ask. I have just been doing research yet. My research is finding 1 to 2 tsp per pound. The best suggestion I have, which I will be doing, is just playing around with formulations until I find on that works and I like. One thing that I learned from candle making which I am sure applies to soap making as well... is Test, Test Test and when you think you have it right test it again.

Like Priarie said, have fun. I'm looking forward to this new adventure.

[rebeccajo99]

I bought the liquid unscented Pure Castile soap from Dr. Bonners. It didn't seem to have any positive sudsy effects on my soap so I quit using it.

Your best bet is to try out different M&P bases and from different suppliers. That way you can find which bases are the best for your applications.

I would cut off a piece of the M&P and use it first to wash with before melting it and definitely before starting to make any soap recipes using additives. You want to know how your base base works without additives. Then you can experiment with different additives so you know which ones work or don't work for you.

Thanks for the advice Candybee. Did not think about trying a piece of it before melting it. I will do that first. What is the best method for melting the soap. All the videos that I have been watching is using the microwave... is that was everybody does?

[Candybee]

Microwaving is fine. Cut up your M&P into small pieces (abut 1 " thick) and microwave for short bursts of 30 - 50 seconds each until melted. (Heating is going to depend on your microwave. Some higher voltage microwaves you may need very short heating bursts of 10-20 seconds each.)

Stir between microwaving to help distribute the heat and seperate the melted pieces from each other. I cut up my base and put it into a glass pyrex cup. Then into the microwave. I also keep a thermometer on hand to periodically check the soap temp to make sure I don't overheat it and to also make sure its cool enough to pour into my mold. During microwaving I cover my pyrex cup with saran wrap to keep the soap from losing too much moisture.

Now I have a soap melter so I can melt 5-6 lbs at a time. Very handy but I still use the microwave. You can also use a presto pot to melt your base. But if you use a melter they are more for production soap making. I make 40-60 lbs of soap at a time in one day so I needed a meltor.

You can also use the double boiler method. If you don't have one just put a smaller pot into a bigger one with water in it. Heat the big pot with the water and put your soap pieces into the smaller pot to melt. Check your temps. You soap should melt around 125 - 135. Stir until all pieces are melted.

My soap making equipment:

glass pyrex bowl

set of stainless steel measuring spoons

wooden spoons for stirring melting soap (I use the stick end)

microwave or soap meltor

thermometor (metal ones like candy thermometers are easier to clean)

soap mold

paper towels (to clean off melted soap before washing equipment)

scale (one that can measure lbs, oz, and grams accurately)

wax paper and/or saran wrap to wrap up soap after demolding

saran wrap to cover soap during heating to prevent moisture loss

Edited August 24, 2009 by Candybee

[rebeccajo99]

Thanks for all of the helpful information. I have candy thermometer that I use for candles. I know it may be a stupid question, but do you think that it could also be used for the soap? Or should I buy a new one?

I'm debating on what to do now. I just received an e-mail back from Essentials by Catalina and thier sample size is about 8 oz. I wanted at least 5 lbs to determine if I wanted to continue using them or not... So in order to get 5 lbs, it will cost me $25 plus shipping. I can buy 20 lbs of it for $60 (includes shipping). What to do... What to do...

[scentlady]

I would buy 20 lbs. This is a really nice base and it holds a lot of additives, so I don't think you can go wrong. Buying 5 lbs of sample size is pretty pricey.

[rebeccajo99]

Thanks for your imput. What about the clear base, is that just as good as what I am hearing about the white base? I eventually want to make decoritive soaps, and all my video's and research says to make sure you use the white and clear base from the same brand.

I just sent them another e-mail asking about ingrediants for lables. I noticed that they did not have thiers listed on the site (either that or I'm missing it)

[scentlady]

I haven't tried their clear base yet but I need to get some. I have a sample of the base from WSP but for the clear I'll probably go with whichever is cheaper with shipping. I don't know why you'd have to have the same brand for both clear and white.

I actually went with the natural white and the ingredients for that are listed but I noticed the ingredients for the other white are missing from the site.

[papahassan17]

Yep of course! shea butter and goat's milk are good combination... In fact you can also add a little bit honey if you want to make your soap smell pretty well.. However if you want to make a goat milk soap, you should not use shea butter, instead use a melted goat butter that can be found at health food stores

[rebeccajo99]

I haven't tried their clear base yet but I need to get some. I have a sample of the base from WSP but for the clear I'll probably go with whichever is cheaper with shipping. I don't know why you'd have to have the same brand for both clear and white.

quote]

According to the video's that I watched, they say to use the bases from the same brand because not all soap base is made the same. Therefore they desolve at different rates making your layers pop apart if different brands are used.

Another company I started looking at is WSP since they have both a natural clear and white base. However, when I read forums on here, sounds like they are a lot softer base. I know I need to make a decision soon, almost out of body wash:laugh2:

[scentlady]

I've never done layers but I'll have to keep that in mind.

I've read mixed reviews on WSP regarding softness and how well it accepts additives. Some people complain about shipping charges for WSP as well. I haven't tried it but lots of people use sfic bases and you can stock up when there's a co-op.

Probably the best thing to do is try a sample sizes of the different kinds before you choose. Then figure what the shipping will be on a regular size order so you can get the cost per lb and then choose.

[rebeccajo99]

I just heard from them... they say the send the ingrediant list when you place your order. Didn't want to purchase some without being about to properly label my product. Now it is time to break down and buy some here shortly. Have some last preping/research to do first.

Need to get a pyrex measuring cup and some molds- thinking about just getting those from my local craft store to start.

Another quick question... when you melt down all the additives, do you melt that seporatly from the soap or all in the same bowl at the same time? (not the colorant and fo, just the shea butter, bees wax and goats milk)

[prairieannie]

I just heard from them... they say the send the ingrediant list when you place your order. Didn't want to purchase some without being about to properly label my product. Now it is time to break down and buy some here shortly. Have some last preping/research to do first.

Need to get a pyrex measuring cup and some molds- thinking about just getting those from my local craft store to start.

Another quick question... when you melt down all the additives, do you melt that seporatly from the soap or all in the same bowl at the same time? (not the colorant and fo, just the shea butter, bees wax and goats milk)

I melt everything in a presto pot together. FO and colorant too if I use it.

[Candybee]

I mix my ingredients/additives in the pyrex cup with my already melted soap base. The oils, butters, etc. blend into the melted soap very quickly.

The reason I don't put additives into my meltor is that I use 2 lb soap tray molds. I make a different soap recipe for each tray so I mix ingredients for each batch seperately.

If I were doing 10-40 lbs of the same soap then I would definitely add the ingredients directly into my meltor or presto pot.