I should have stuck with unscented!!!

[SimplyBea]

I knew it was too good to be true.......... I was having a whale of a timemaking up batches of soaps and working on a stash to take home to my family next month..... and yesterday I made a batch with a Sandalwood FO....... it was a DISASTER!!!

Everything was fine until I added the FO at LIGHT trace...... it turned all crumbly like cottage cheese and started hardening in the pot so I just panicked and poured it into the mold.

I spread it out as best I could, covered it in glad wrap and put it away in the esky.

About 5 hours later I peeked and it looked dark and felt soft.. there was a lot of heat generating from it and I just thought I'd best leave it.

This morning it feels firm but I think it still looks like cottage cheese (stuck together) hardening!

What should I have done?

Coconut Oil 500gm (25%)

Olive Oil 900gm (45%)

Rice Bran Oil 400gm (20%)

Castor Oil 200gm (10%)

Sandalwood FO @ 30ml/1000gm

Lye 271gm

Water 671.7gm

I waited til Lye and Oils were 100F before soaping....... I have NO idea what went wrong

:confused:

Can I use this soap if it hardens up?

Thanks

[Meridith]

I did not run your number to see if your amounts were on so I'm basing my answer on the assumption they are.

What happened was your FO accelerated trace which some FOs will do. Florals are known to accelerate trace. As long as you got the oils and lye completely mixed together your soap should be fine. Check for zap to be sure. You'll find, as you venture forward in soapmaking that sometimes the ugly soaps can be the best performing soaps. If you don't like the look, you can always rebatch.

When working with an FO that you know causes accelerated trace, there are some steps you can take to try to prevent it or slow it down:

Add the FOs to the oils, soap with full water and soap as cool as possible.

OR You can HP the soap rather than CP it.

[IndulgentCreations]

If you've used this recipe before and everything was fine until you added the FO, I'd chalk it up to that FO. Some FO's cause funny reactions in soap. Apple scents always seem to rice for me, florals speed up trace drastically, and pine tar is soap on a stick.

When you peeked it sounds like it was gelling. If it's hard now, even though it looks like cottage cheese it'll probably be ok. Just make sure there's no liquid seeping from the inside of the bars when you cut them, cure as you normally would, should be fine. HTH

[CareBear]

Your FO caused ricing. Can you tell us exactly which one? From what supplier?

[Fire and Ice]

Did you do a water discount? I've worked with Sandalwood F/O straight and didn't have a problem with it. But when I'm using a scent I'm not sure of, I never discount my water and I will use a whisk to bring it to trace.I never use a SB the first time I work with a scent I haven't soaped.

That said, I also test scents in a rescipe I know won't trace too fast and one that I've made several times. I will also soap a cool as I can 95 degrees or so.

[SimplyBea]

Meredith as always, you are quick to the rescue!

I finally unmolded th soap just now - more than 48hrs later. It is firm but still pliable (like the other basic unscented batches) and apart from the 'rice grains' on the top it looks okay inside.

I washed out the knife I used to cut it up and there were nice bubbles - do I still need to do the ZAP test? I have never done that before and am afraid!

The numbers should have been good, I have used this recipe many times now and it has been good (until I try FOs) and is a soft bar to start but firms up and holds well.

The Lye (6% discount) & water (0% discount) were based on SoapMaker3 calculations - that's the only other difference in this batch.

I will try adding the FO to the oils next time!

CareBear - I bought the Sandalwood FO from an Aussie supplier - I don't know if that will help troubleshoot.

F&I - next time I will hand stir! I just didn't expect it to go so fast from light trace to 'rice bubbles' !!!!!

How will I know for sure it is safe to use? It looks okay apart from the top.... but is there anything else I have to look out for???

cheers

[Scented]

Zap test is how you'll know. Sometimes in those situations I've had stuff ooze from the bar and you'll see it once it is cut. It almost looks like the soap is crying.

[dogmom1]

if you want to try the FO again, i found that eugenia's recipe in her room temp tutorial was very slow to trace when i did it by hand and without FO.

the very first batch i made i used CS lavender and it was wonderful and traced in a "reasonable" time, tho i can't tell you how long.

the second batch i made for hubby was the same recipe, room temp again, with no FO because he breaks out very easily. i made it one nite after work (i work 12 hr days plus 2 1/2 hrs travel) and it was on the late side when i started. i knew the recipe was good, but had NO idea it would take over an hour to trace! i was afraid to try the stick blender! i thought for sure it would never turn into soap. when i saw the slightest trace, i poured it in the shoebox and went to bed. i got about 3 hours sleep that nite! the soap was fine.

btw, it's a really nice soap and i use it for any FO i'm not sure about, at full water and 5% superfat.

ei

[SimplyBea]

Thank you ladies - the soap is cut up into smallish logs now and there is no trace of oozing oils or lumpiness below the surface. The rice grains are still on the top but it smells nice and I think it is okay.

I sliced off a small sliver to try and it lathers nicely.

Thank you everyone ONCE AGAIN!!!!!!