rebeccajo99 Posted August 1, 2009 Share Posted August 1, 2009 I have a candle that when I burned it left a brown film that looked like the wick was seeping something. My husband and I was wondering if maybe that this FO is just a heavier oil and that we just need to lower the FO amount. Can you tell if a FO is heavier just by looking or is it trial and error once you get it in the wax. The scent we are working with right now is Lilac from Peak. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scented Posted August 1, 2009 Share Posted August 1, 2009 Lilac from Peak's tends to go from clear to a reddish color. You could technically use less, but in my experience, this isn't a wick up. Next time I'd try cutting back, but I can use this FO at 1 oz pp and not get the seeping. From testing and reading, most heavily spiced scents, vanillas, most patchoulis (not all), some ambers and some other scents require a wick up. It depends on your wax and test burn. So with that said, there's no real easy way to tell a wick up without going through a test burn (IMO), because even some vanillas did not require that I wick up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebeccajo99 Posted August 1, 2009 Author Share Posted August 1, 2009 Thanks Scented. I will pour a new one at a lower FO amount and test that. Sounds like it is just a lot of trial and error as well. The joys of testing Thanks for the heads up on the ones that thend to wick up for you. I will keep that in mind when I start pouring/testing those scents. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meridith Posted August 1, 2009 Share Posted August 1, 2009 Lilac from Peak's tends to go from clear to a reddish color. You could technically use less, but in my experience, this isn't a wick up. Next time I'd try cutting back, but I can use this FO at 1 oz pp and not get the seeping. From testing and reading, most heavily spiced scents, vanillas, most patchoulis (not all), some ambers and some other scents require a wick up. It depends on your wax and test burn. So with that said, there's no real easy way to tell a wick up without going through a test burn (IMO), because even some vanillas did not require that I wick up.I have to add, from my experience, most citrus ones are heavy and need to be wicked up. Of course testing is a must to make that determination for yourself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8-GRAN-ONES Posted August 1, 2009 Share Posted August 1, 2009 I agree with all the above..Mostly..Testing...Everyone uses different wax, wicks, so results will be differentfrom person person..Test...test...test..About the black film..I have had that with a few fo's..and nothing seems to get rid of it...I think it must m\be some type of chemical reaction..with the wax, wick, fo and flame.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeahRB Posted August 1, 2009 Share Posted August 1, 2009 I have a candle that when I burned it left a brown film that looked like the wick was seeping something. My husband and I was wondering if maybe that this FO is just a heavier oil and that we just need to lower the FO amount. Can you tell if a FO is heavier just by looking or is it trial and error once you get it in the wax. The scent we are working with right now is Lilac from Peak. ThanksDid it incorporate when you stirred it in? I have found that if an oil is heavy, it will not mix into the wax easily (that is easy to see if you do not color your candles or if you wait until after you mix in your FO and then add color). If I am having trouble incorporating a FO into the wax I sometimes put it back on the heat and keep stirring and it seems to help. How much FO are you using per lb?Did you have droplets on the top of the candle before it was burned? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WillowBoo Posted August 3, 2009 Share Posted August 3, 2009 NO matter what shade of purple I use with Lilac, I get a gray discoloration, and I didn't think it was a heavy oil. I would assume you could determine the heaviness of a FO by inspecting the bottle it comes in. If it's filled to the brim - it would be a lighter weight oil. If it appears not to be filling up the whole bottle it would be a heavier oil. This based on a net weight. I notice this when I get several samplers. Does this make sense? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebeccajo99 Posted August 3, 2009 Author Share Posted August 3, 2009 yeah... your theory makes sense. I have noticed that some are filled more than others. I will test that theory as I'm testing the candles as well. if this theory works, may give me a jump start on those that have to be wicked up I'm not to thrilled about the lilac information. I am making my soy candles dye free and I was hoping that if I can't get this grey to stop with a lower fo amount, then trying a different supplier. Doesn't sound like I will get relief here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scented Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 That theory isn't going to work. Appearance has nothing to do with it. Let's go with an example ... a bottle of Strawberry Musk arrives filled to the brim so if I were to assume that since it is, that's a lighter oil then I would get candles with a low flame or a flame that won't stay lit. And Strawberry Musk doesn't come under filled.To add to that ... what if I get a supplier who undercuts my order by an oz (which happens or my scales don't match the weight of their thumb or something) ... does that mean it's heavier even though (if I'm not on the top of my game and I don't weigh the FO when I get it) because appearance wise it's less than the other FOs I got? Best to test. Always test. Short cuts will inevitably catch up to you and you should know your product inside and out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WillowBoo Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 Yes, you're right, suppliers can screw up too. But, eyeballing your bottles is always a good starting point. The odds or the likelihood that ALL suppliers are going to short you is pretty high, but I'm sure it happens on occasion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deb426 Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 Well, I agree with Scented on this one. I have oils that may be heavier in weight but do not necessarily need a larger wick. I also have some oils that I think are light in weight but which need to be wicked up. I have my range of three or four wick sizes per jar but haven't found an easy way to tell in advance if a new oil is going to need a wick on the low end of my range or the high end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted August 6, 2009 Share Posted August 6, 2009 if this theory works, may give me a jump start on those that have to be wicked upNice try, but no cigar. A FO is "heavy" if its weight is higher than usual for its volume, but more importantly, if its viscosity is thicker and more dense. Not every "heavy" FO needs wicking up; not every lighter FO should be wicked down... This may be true frequently, but certainly not enough of the time that one should assume that as a rule, IMHO.What will give you that "jump start" you are searching for is experience with many FOs over a period of time. Ya can't hurry love & ya can't hurry experience. No short cuts to success. Test, test, test. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WillowBoo Posted August 6, 2009 Share Posted August 6, 2009 So, if a bottle is less full than others because the FO amount is based on weight not volume, you wouldn't assume that it POSSIBLY could be a heavier weight? Noticing this initially may not clue you in that your usual wick (THAT YOU USUALLY START WITH TO TEST, with whatever concoction you're using) might have to change? THis wouldn't be yet another way to possibly get you to a better starting point in the testing process? I don't believe anyone mentioned that you don't test anything. The suggestion of eyeballing your bottle was just one more indication or clue that if your usual wick isn't working it's possible you are dealing with a heavier oil. Hmmm...I guess I misunderstood the candle manufacturer who told me this a while back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deb426 Posted August 6, 2009 Share Posted August 6, 2009 I was only stating my experience. Other people may have different experiences. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scented Posted August 6, 2009 Share Posted August 6, 2009 Still standing by there is no short cut and to assume is to make an ass out of you and me (famous quote from someone else.) Same as wick choices ... requires testing because no matter if an FO appears to weigh heavier, it may not require wicking up. Will toss out yet another example ... a couple of years ago there was a supplier with a strawberry that the actual oil was thick, poured almost like syrup ... did not require wicking up. If you choose to cut corners that your choice, but most of the time your product will reflect it ... stating my opinion and what I've come to notice.Regardless of what a manufacturer tells anyone, there just aren't that many short cuts out there that work and that one hasn't panned out for me. Maybe it works for you or you think it does, but the emphasis here to the original poster is not to assume, but to always test. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebeccajo99 Posted August 6, 2009 Author Share Posted August 6, 2009 If you choose to cut corners that your choice, but most of the time your product will reflect it I don't know about the other posters that have replyed since asking my question. I was just asking to see if there was a way. I start my testing at a certain wick. Then wick up or down accordingly. I'm sure there will be the FO's that you will think by the looks need to be wicked up, but really don't need to be. I am more wondering if there is a way to tell before hand so I can go streight to the next wick up and see if that works first. So far, all my candles that are completed are wicked at the same thing. I poured another one today that needs to be re-tested because it appears that it needs to be wicked down. I am not looking for a shortcut on testing... just wondering if there was a way to tell to make an "educated" guess on where to start testing. To me, making an eductated guess on where to start isn't a shortcut since you have not actually started yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scented Posted August 6, 2009 Share Posted August 6, 2009 Good! I'm glad to know that, because I know it sounds like a we tend to beat an old horse over and over about testing, but it's done because it is so important. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebeccajo99 Posted August 6, 2009 Author Share Posted August 6, 2009 now that things are actaully starting to fall in place, I actually enjoy testing. I like the candles burning in my house and how nice it makes it smell. I am begining not to take offense the to costant nag of testing since I know it has to be said so any newbie reading will know the importance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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