susie Posted May 28, 2009 Share Posted May 28, 2009 Hi,I have a customer that does not want soy wax. I have tried palm but haven't had much luck with wicking. Does anybody make palm container candles? If so, can you lead me to the proper wick for a 3-4" container (10-12oz.) Thanks! Susie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Judy, USMC Posted May 28, 2009 Share Posted May 28, 2009 Found this on a search for you. Hope it helps.http://www.craftserver.com/forums/showthread.php?t=75697&highlight=palm+wick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
susie Posted May 28, 2009 Author Share Posted May 28, 2009 I've tried an HTP126 and it still doesn't do the trick. Maybe there is somebody else out there that has had luck. I like the fact that you don't need as much FO too! Thanks for sending those posts ....they helped a lot! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted May 28, 2009 Share Posted May 28, 2009 Might check in the veggie wax forum... Lotsa folks make these!For that size container, I'd try a CDN 16-18. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mparadise Posted May 28, 2009 Share Posted May 28, 2009 If they are the apoth jars that are same with as a typical 16 oz apoth jar, just shorter, I would try double wicking either an ECO 8 or 10. These handle most of my scents in my 16 oz apoths without a problem. Good luck and let us know how you do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Firefly Posted May 29, 2009 Share Posted May 29, 2009 I can't help as mine are about 85-90% soy and the rest is palm wax. You could try an LX 16 or LX 18, HTP 105. I do the 4 oz deep containers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
celicagtca Posted June 5, 2009 Share Posted June 5, 2009 If you're using a 16 oz. apoth., jar and 80% soy to 20 % palm try (2) HTP 83's or (2) HTP 93's. That should do the trick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Debbie73 Posted June 5, 2009 Share Posted June 5, 2009 I like my cd wicks. I would try double wicking with two cd 6's or cd 8's. Hope this helps! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TroyKristoffer Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 Hi there... I do glass glow palm wax exlusively and it has it's goods and bads... I love love LOVE the crystalized design it makes against the glass... And it seems they take a little longer to burn cuz the wax is so hard. It is highly prone to air pockets though and cools very fast and different than other wax. My biggest disappointment though, and IM trying to find a solution for this, is they tunnel down really excessively. Due to the density of the cool wax, you really have to burn them at lest 2 to 3 hours each burning to get the wax melted out to the edges of a standard width apoth jar. If you only burn an hour or so at a time it just bores a hole down the center and wastes a good thick wall of wax.If anyone has any ideas, I would love to hear them. I thought about blending withsoy but haven't tried yet and suspect that will ruin the beautiful crystalization... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Candybee Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 I had a terrible time with tunneling until I found CS' CSN wicks. I use them for my 3" diameter jars and they burn completely all the way down with only minor tunneling in the first or second burn. The wax catches up in later burns and cleans the glass completely. I was thrilled!Stella also uses palm but prefers the CDN wicks as she mentioned above.I would give either the CDNs or CSNs a try before you give up on this wax. Its a beautiful thing to see the candle burn so well.Another wick that is recommended by a couple of suppliers is Wedo's RRD wicks. Wedo also made the CSN wicks for CS. I haven't tried the RRDs so I can't vouch for them but I love the CSNs! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 (edited) Due to the density of the cool wax, you really have to burn them at lest 2 to 3 hours each burning to get the wax melted out to the edges of a standard width apoth jar. If you only burn an hour or so at a time it just bores a hole down the center and wastes a good thick wall of wax.If anyone has any ideas, I would love to hear them.Since the OP asked about wicking a specific diameter size of container (no mention of shape) with palm wax, discussing mixing soys, etc. just muddies the water.It is not imperative nor particularly desirable for a palm wax candle to get a FMP (full melt pool) on the first burn, same as soy. Even though it may tunnel at first - it burns down, then out - the candle will "catch up" as it burns down into the container. When testing, I apply the same rules of burning palm wax container candles as any other - 1 hour of burn time per inch of candle diameter. I wick containers for the last third of the candle, so that the wax is consumed without leaving a lot of residue on the container, BUT the container does not become too hot to handle and the thing has a good hot throw. Balancing those 3 aspects can be tough sometimes, but that's part of the art of candlemaking. Different container shapes present different challenges because the diameter is not the ONLY dynamic of wicking a container. Straight-sided containers with no shoulders are the easiest to wick.Searching the forums will yield a great deal of discussion about wicking container palm wax. Click here & scroll down to learn how to search the forums most effectively. The site search tool works for very general information, but using the Google site search method helps to find more specific information. Edited October 27, 2009 by Stella1952 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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