My second burn.. Help..Please!

[Soya]

I have (2) 2.5 inch jars that I single wicked (one with an ECO12) and (one with a ECO14).

I am using CBADVANCED

First burns - were beautiful with both wicks. Great pool...timing...etc.

Second Burn- My wicks looked like they were drowning both ECO12 and Eco14, however after a few hours they picked up fine. Is this normal? They looked like they wanted to go out, but they picked up like that, after a few hours!

What can be causing this?

Thank You

[Rae Ann]

Well, I've never used the ECO wicks but I'll try to help as I have used the Ecosoya Advanced. Is the ECO 14 the largest size in that series and rated for something like a 3-4" container? If so, I'd say it's way too big for that jar. Did it have a huge mushroom after your first burn? The Advanced soy burns MUCH easier than regular soy and easier than some paraffins I've tried. Do you have any other type of wicks? Maybe the ECO's aren't compatible with the Advanced? I have use CD, LX and paper core wicks with this wax and haven't had any problems with drowning - actually I've had the opposite problem - burning too hot! I would try something like a CD 12 or LX 20 or 44 paper if you have any. Henry has done a lot of testing with this wax and LX wicks so maybe he'll see this and be able to offer some advice. Good luck!

[Soya]

Thank you Rae Ann for tyring to help. It's the weirdest thing. One minute they're drowning another minute they decide they want to work. Originally I had problems with holes, air bubbles...etc.. but I started pouring cooler and don't have that problem anymore. I will be ordering steric this week...that might help. :smiley2:

[topofmurrayhill]

CB-Advanced 2 often sets up with a bit of a dip in the middle. If you trim short with the wick in a depression it's going to seriously struggle.

I agree with Rae Ann too. I wick a 3" tin with ECO 10 using this wax and I think I could get away with an ECO 8 sometimes. You're using ECO 12/14 in a 2 1/2" container. Sounds way way big to me,

[Soya]

OKay I took a pic... www.metroxlights.com ...this is the kind of stuff I keep getting. This 16oz container was made with 2 eco12 wicks. They all start out burning great. It's always towards the middle of the candle I get the low flame/drowning effect. Maybe I am cutting the wick too close.

TY

[Rae Ann]

Hmmm, any chance you've got some air pockets hidden in there? Are you getting any bubbles coming up while burning? I've had that problem with this wax - tops look perfect then after burning a few minutes, POOF - hits an air pocket and tunnel city. I've found that it is quite easy to single wick the 16 oz. apothecaries with this wax too. I've never liked double wicking, seems like one of the wicks always goes out so I quit trying. Usually takes about 3 hours for me in this jar to get a full melt pool with a 60 paper core. I do get mushrooms but the melt pool is beautiful. Maybe try a single ECO 14 and poke some relief holes to make sure they're aren't any hidden air pockets.

[Henryk]

Soya - I consistently use an LX 24 in 2.5" jars with CBA. You probably know this but first burns ALWAYS look good - even usually with a bad choice of wick. The flame gets a lot of oxygen, but can struggle later on. Make sure you aren't trimming them too short on later burns. You'd be amazed at the problems this can cause. I don't know if the ECOs are like some cottons, but I notice that some cottons tend to break a little bit further down than the cut if you're trimmer is either dull or is one of the "self-measuring" types. I just went through an odd problem like this and it just simply turned out to be my own fault - not the products.

I just recently got some more of the CBA V2. I am having sink hole problems again - even with 2% stearic so I may bump it up. One thing I did notice is that the holes are ALWAYS on the thick side of the wick bars so its the radiating heat from the metal that assists it. Secondly, these holes can be deeper than just on the surface, so make sure you fill them one way or another. (Usually I just poke them and then heat gun them). The only problem I am having with that is sometimes the coating on the wick will melt and blemish an otherwise perfect candle top!

Yes, many times you can "fix" a wick problem like you are having by just letting them burn away for a couple hours longer than usual - but do you want to HAVE to do that? I'd just test different sizes or types of wicks. Sorry, I have no experience with ECOs.

HTH

[Soya]

Thank you Henry and Rae Ann for your help. I had so many problems with holes in this wax. I no longer have these problems. I just pour at the cloudy/almost slushy stage, sometimes under 100. I add no additives or dye. My tops look great...and no holes or air bubbles at all. I will order other wicks this weeks...this

drowning wick thing is driving me NUTTS!!

TY

[topofmurrayhill]

The only problem I am having with that is sometimes the coating on the wick will melt and blemish an otherwise perfect candle top!

Doesn't that suck? When you have a few extra bucks get yourself a variable temperature heat gun. You'll discover various ways that's helpful, this being a big one.

[Henryk]

Mine does have that - maybe I just need to put on the concentrator nozzle and turn the heat down? What I would also like is different speeds because mine blows like a leaf blower!

[Soya]

Top...I don't get those holes anymore....by adjusting the pour temerature...shouldn't that work for him as well? That's more work to have to use a heat gun.

The LX 24 is for Xtra Large conatiners 4-4.25 inches

Henry you have had to go up quite a bit on ethese wicks.

That is what's happening to me with the ECO's I am having to use a ECO14 for large containers in a 2.5 Jar....and it still drowns. ARGGGG!!!

[topofmurrayhill]

Mine does have that - maybe I just need to put on the concentrator nozzle and turn the heat down? What I would also like is different speeds because mine blows like a leaf blower!

You certainly want to turn the heat down if it's melting the wick coating. Mine measures nozzle temperature so if I set that to 160 or less I'm safe. I also have 2 fan speeds and yes the low one is very useful for this.

[topofmurrayhill]

Top...I don't get those holes anymore....by adjusting the pour temerature...shouldn't that work for him as well? That's more work to have to use a heat gun.

The LX 24 is for Xtra Large conatiners 4-4.25 inches

Henry you have had to go up quite a bit on ethese wicks.

That is what's happening to me with the ECO's I am having to use a ECO14 for large containers in a 2.5 Jar....and it still drowns. ARGGGG!!!

The LX-24 is for whatever it works for. People just make up those guidelines, doesn't mean much. Anyway, this is soy wax which is about as thick as a thin maple syrup. That changes everything.

HenryK and I and others have experimented with pouring cold and it didn't help. Adding a little stearic seemed to solve it and then you can pour at a reasonable temperature.

Nothing wrong with the ECOs. Make sure you aren't trimming too short. I wonder if it's possible that your wax isn't setting up right because of the very cold pour. That's a pretty wild speculation but I really think of this as a hot pour wax, as does the manufacturer. Also it melts very easily and an ECO 14 in a 2.5" diameter container of it is vaguely insane.

[Soya]

OKay....so tonight I will make one and pour hot and keep it in an extra warm place to cure. I know I will get those ugly holes and lots of air bubbles.... but I will try...and I will post my findings. These wicks have to be working for someone out there. Thank you again

[topofmurrayhill]

You don't need an extra warm place, just room temperature. Don't heat it above 175 or 180 because some people say that makes the bubbles worse and I think it might be true. Then pour it somewhere in the 140-160 range. If you get a crack around the wick, the best solution seems to be the hot pour plus stearic. Good luck!

[Soya]

Thank you Top