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Nature Wax C-3


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Has anyone that uses this wax noticed a difference in it lately. I mean that in a good way. I just received some wax the other day and when I opened it I was surprised to see that the wax was pure white and not a creamy color. The whole consistancy was different when you put your hand in and crushed it. I have been mixing C 3 with J223 for a long time because of the frosting and the cottage cheese tops. Welllll I poured so some with all C3 and all I can say is I'm in Love. The candles are buring so clean and scent if fantastic after only 1 day. Whatever they did to it I hope the don't change it back. No more blending waxes for me, it all C3 now.

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I have noticed a difference. I started ordering my C3 from CandleScience now too, as my other supplier's prices went out the ROOF!

All of their waxes in general are ground into much finer flakes than the other place. It's been working very well. Of my 6 current scents in production, only one produces sinking, even with the use of coconut oil. In all, it's producing smooth, gorgeous, great burning candles. I'm super pleased!

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I get mine from Candlewic. Yes, the wax is very moist feeling. I still have a small amount of the last box of C 3 and there is a differance. The old box is dry feeling and you can't really crumb it up in you hands. The new boxes are smaller white flakes (not off white) and when you crumb them in your hands they allmost have a slight greasy feel to them. I really started to think that the boxes were mislabeled.

I called Cargill today to see what they did different to the wax, I spoke to Larry, and he assures me that there has been no change at all to the wax. Maybe there is something he doesnt know, it is different. He also said the new P2 & P3 waxes should be out in about 6 weeks.

What wick to you use in your C3? I have been using the Premier Series wicks with good results. There are a few fragrances the I use Cd's in.

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CD wicks in C 3 for me. I got mine this time from Candlewic. I normally get mine from NUScents but it was cheaper from CW even with shipping and NS is closer to me. What's the difference in the P2 & P3 than what were using now? B/f using the C 3 I used their C 2 and loved it. It took a while for me to get use to the C 3 but once I got the bugs all worked out I liked it so I just stuck with it.

Cindy/WI

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C3? I love the stuff!:D

Just sounds like you got a nice, fresh case of C3. :) This is one of the things I have appreciated about NatureWax products over the years - their consistency in manufacturing. Each case of C3 has been the same as the one before it - very white with the flake size ranging from rather large (3/4" nearer the top) to smaller 1/4" pieces toward the bottom - normal sizing/distribution for settling. Average size is about 1/2". Down at the bottom of a case, the flake size usually diminishes because of settling/breakage. Same with corn flakes. ;) If one is careful to wrap it tightly, there should be little difference in "moisture" at the bottom of a case than at the top. I used to pour mine into plastic storage boxes, but these days I usually leave it in the carton and plastic bag in which NatureWax ships it. Keeping it tightly wrapped is important as with all waxes made from veggie oils.

All of their waxes in general are ground into much finer flakes than the other place.
A case of C3 should have approximately the same size flake regardless of the distributor. The EcoSoya I purchased from CS was a little smaller flake than C3, but I did not purchase a case, so I assumed this was because of handling/settling.

The P2 & P3 blends are supposedly improvements on the P1, which gave many folks fits! Tim from NatureWax told us about it here last year and we've been patiently waiting to try some... We'll see... ;)

As for wicking, I use CDNs and am very happy with the burn from them. Tempering the wax before pouring helps more than any other factor (coconut oil, crisco, voodoo, etc.) with frosting, crystallization issues. Pouring into prewarmed containers also helps reduce frosting. Keeping the amount of dye and FO down is also important for reducing frosting. From the NatureWax C2/C3 Handling sheet...

* The recommended fragrance load for this wax is 6% or less, although a 7 to 10% fragrance loads may be added with the addition of additives to help control the fragrance.
Adding USA (from JBN) does help with the general wax consistency, smooth tops and hot throw of C3 (1 Tbsp. PP). I use 1 oz. pp of FO and see no reason to add more. If a FO will not throw well at that rate, I try the FO from a different supplier.

If the top sinks (the legendary C3 crack), try cooling more slowly and evenly. This is usually a sign that the tops have cooled much quicker than the center of the candle, causing the sinkhole. This is more problematic in containers which are taller than they are wide. Except during the summer, I cover the candles while they are cooling to slow down the heat loss from the tops. It also helps to cool in a prewarmed oven (turned off when you set the candles on the rack). I always cool candles on a rack so that air can circulate underneath the candles and so the surface neither absorbs nor insulates the heat from the bottom of the candles. Drafts cause uneven cooling and I avoid these all year 'round! :)

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So far, I have been using the C-3 in my tins and I absolutely LOVE IT!! I haven't had this kind of throw since days gone by of experimenting with parasoy blends. For the larger candles, like our own 'Einstein' (Stella 1952) said about C-3, I have noticed if I cover the candles, the sink holes stop.

Now on to finding the perfect wick!! I have tried them all except for the premeire series, and I don't like any so far: they either eat the fragrance, mega-shroom, or burn too small of a dia. They are only three and a quarter inch dia. jars, so I don't want to 2-wick, but Keep testing I will do!!

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I bought a box about a month ago and although it's a different lot # it seems to be the same as last time, which was dry. I have in the past received some cases that were stickier as opposed to nice and dry, but had same results with the candles, just as others have said.

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Because of the extreme heat and humidity in my area, I have to be careful when opening a new case. I move it into a climate-controlled area and wait at least 8 hours before opening it. If the case has been stored in air conditioning and is opened immediately upon receipt in a warmer, more humid environment, moisture WILL condense on the cooler, dryer flakes!

Even in the wintertime, I always allow a new case to acclimate to the indoor environment before opening it.

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Question for Stella1952 . Since I have always mixed J223 with C3, and am now going all C3, I have a few questions for you. Sounds like you've been using C3 a long time. You said the most important thing is tempering the wax before you pour it .. Don't want to sound dumb but what do you mean? Also you said you add USA from JBN, is that like a universal additive, I assum the JBN is a supplier. Enlighten me a little. I want my transition to C3 to go smooth, I dont want to start to mix it again. Naturally I will have to keep my formula that I use now and change over one fragrance at a time, as I test each and every fragrance that I carry in my store.

Any and all help is always appreciated.

Also is there a difference between CD and CDN wicks?

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Read a few other post and found out that USA is universal soy additive. I'll do a google search for it and see if I can find a close supplier. By tempering do you mean your cooling process or pouring temp. What do you fill is the best temp to pour C3. I tend to pour hottter because of the J223 I mix with it.

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BB, here are links to three threads about tempering... more can be found by searching the Veggie wax forum with the keyword "tempering" and looking for the topics with the most replies...

Here's a quote from Top that expresses this concept very well:

Putting a special name to it makes it seem that tempering is some kind of different or exceptional thing you can do. But tempering is just the idea that vegetable oils solidify in all different ways depending on how the material is manipulated in the manufacturing process, so we manipulate it to get the outcome we like the best. It's fundamental to making solid vegetable oil products. On the industrial level, they figure out for instance the ideal process so that each tub of margarine has just the right attractive appearance and texture. Otherwise it could look ugly or feel grainy in your mouth or whatever.

We always talk about how to manipulate the wax. A lot of people just hit upon the best way, but nobody can tell you exactly what to do. Like cooking, it's not only about knowing the procedure but also developing a feel for manipulating the materials and being able to see when something has reached the state you want.

One thing that can help you figure it out is knowing the things that affect how a vegetable oil turns out when it solidifies. We often talk about temperature, but a couple of things we don't always think about is how fast the liquid cools before it start to crystallize and also how it's agitated (stirring matters).

http://www.craftserver.com/forums/showthread.php?t=71076

http://www.craftserver.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61303&highlight=tempering

http://www.craftserver.com/forums/showthread.php?p=197532post197532

Also is there a difference between CD and CDN wicks?
Yes - another frequently asked and answered question. Search the forums for the complete explanation and links to Heinz Verhaegh, the manufacturer, WickIt and Wicks Unlimited, US distributors, as well as suppliers who carry them, such as JBN (who also carries USA).

I would also suggest that ANYONE using NatureWax C3 go to their website, fill in the info they ask and DOWNLOAD their handling & technical data sheets. It never hurts to know what the manufacturer recommends before embarking, right? ;)

There is no one RIGHT temp to melt & pour - you have to find what works for you in your environment and I promise you that it will change with the seasons (unless you don't have those where you live).

Good luck with your homework! It seems daunting, but some basic knowledge will help you a LOT! :)

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  • 3 weeks later...

Stella1952 thanks for all the info. I have done alot of reading and have tried tempering the wax, it does seem to make a difference. Also I have added some cocnut oil to the C3 and that really seems to have a differnce. Would it be a good idea to use coconut oil and USA or just to choose one. I haven't tried the USA yet.

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