anabanana's candles Posted September 3, 2007 Share Posted September 3, 2007 I use this wick in a 16oz palm jar and it is a torch. I use the same jar and FO with 415 soy and it is a very light flame. What is the deal. THey claim to be for natural candles, but with the harder palm, they burn super hot and with soy, not so much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kandlekrazy Posted September 3, 2007 Share Posted September 3, 2007 I thought the same thing about the CD wicks, seemed to burn hotter in palm than in soy. Don't know what the answer is since palm is supposedly harder to burn? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bugtussle Posted September 3, 2007 Share Posted September 3, 2007 The CSN just works really good in palm. It doesn't bend like other wicks do. It's all I use for palm votives & pillars. Carole Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KMommy Posted September 3, 2007 Share Posted September 3, 2007 I was begining to think it was just me that had this problem. :undecided Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted September 3, 2007 Share Posted September 3, 2007 I use this wick in a 16oz palm jar and it is a torch. I use the same jar and FO with 415 soy and it is a very light flame. What is the deal. THey claim to be for natural candles' date=' but with the harder palm, they burn super hot and with soy, not so much.[/quote']Palm wax and soy wax do not burn the same. Just because they are both vegetable waxes and the wicks are designed for vegetable waxes does not mean that the wicks will burn the same in different vegetable waxes... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anabanana's candles Posted September 3, 2007 Author Share Posted September 3, 2007 I understand that, but my thought is with palm being a harder wax that they would burn cooler in them since it takes longer to melt. I have also noticed that if I make my palm candles with 10oz palm and 2 oz soy, I do not get that terrible hang up on the sides of the jars and they still look fantastic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KMommy Posted September 3, 2007 Share Posted September 3, 2007 So you are adding soy and it isn't changing the crystalization at all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anabanana's candles Posted September 3, 2007 Author Share Posted September 3, 2007 No it isn't changing it at all and I was suprised. It feels a little softer and it definetley burns more evenly. I just have a hard time keeping my wicks centered while cooling the palm. Any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kandlekrazy Posted September 3, 2007 Share Posted September 3, 2007 Use the plastic wick centering tools that fit your container...they work great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlebrownbug Posted September 4, 2007 Share Posted September 4, 2007 CSN wicks are supposedly designed for palm wax specifically as palm wax is very acidic.These wicks were designed from the ground up by Wedo of Germany to address that issue in palm wax...doesn't mean it won't work in soy but should work in palm wax better I would think. Contact CS and ask them why your wick could be performing the way it does. I use the csn 9's for the 8 oz. jj and for double wicking my 16 oz. apothecary jars and they work, so far, really good that way. I have tried the csn 16 for my 16 oz. jar as a single wick method but have not been very successful with that yet...maybe if I can solve my wick centering problem that wick will work well too.....I hate to test,test,test but it is what I must do to see what works. The csn 12's also work really good in the jj. Again,call CS and see what they can tell you about your torching wick.Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PurpleHippie Posted September 5, 2007 Share Posted September 5, 2007 I have tried these and have the same opinion, huge! The flames are wide and tall and my jars got so hot I couldn't touch them. Palm does burn differently so maybe another wick will work out better then these. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suzanneg Posted September 5, 2007 Share Posted September 5, 2007 I always use 2 wicks in the apothecary jars, no matter what type of wax I use! It just won't work with one wick! I use csn in my jj too! burns great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
becky0404 Posted September 5, 2007 Share Posted September 5, 2007 I, also, have not had any luck single wicking my palm containers. I use two CSN 9's in my 3" jar and it doesn't get too hot at all. Now, if I could just get a better throw! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted September 5, 2007 Share Posted September 5, 2007 CDNs work very well for us both in soy and in palm. Container tests (8 oz. metro jars) so far are working out very well. My associate poured some Glass Glow recently and is having no wicking or hot throw issues with hers. Palm wax does not behave like paraffin or soy wax when it burns, so many folks, having experience and expectations from other waxes, may find it difficult to wick properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KMommy Posted September 5, 2007 Share Posted September 5, 2007 I haven't had any luck with single wicks either. They either tunnel or they produce one HUGE bouncing flame. I have tried several different types of wicks. This is a photo of a 3 1/2 wide container using 2 CSN 9 wicks. This photo was taken after only 1 hour of burning. The outside jar temp. was 146. I tried 2 CSN 5 wicks and I got a full melt pool in 1 hour 15min. Maybe it's just a problem with my pack of wicks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted September 5, 2007 Share Posted September 5, 2007 It is not unusual for palm wax to not achieve a full melt pool on the first burn because of its tendency to burn very slowly and to make a shell. The candle usually straightens up on successive burns and the hangups usually melt off. The test burn my associate had going with the 8 oz. metro she was testing the other night was looking near perfect. She reported close to a full melt pool after the first burn of 4 hours; full melt pool after 3 hours on the next burn when I saw it - no hangup. Hot throw was pretty good but hard to tell a lot because of the environment where it was burning - these are young folks and they smoke in their home while playing video games.:rolleyes2:lipsrseal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KMommy Posted September 5, 2007 Share Posted September 5, 2007 This is a photo of the CSN 14 burn. Is this how it is suppose to burn? Hot throw was pretty good but hard to tell a lot because of the environment where it was burning - these are young folks and they smoke in their home while playing video gamesIf they had a pretty good hot throw under those conditions that's pretty awesome for a candle!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted September 5, 2007 Share Posted September 5, 2007 Looks more like it to me - how long had this been burning? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KMommy Posted September 5, 2007 Share Posted September 5, 2007 I will have to check my notes to make sure but I think this was at the 3 hour mark. I didn't take a photo from the side but this was after I had trimmed the wick. The flame grows very tall quickly and it bounces like a rubber ball! No draft, AC turned off.I know that all waxes can produce different results. Just because it is a "natural" wax doesn't mean it will burn the same as soy but this will take some getting use to. :smiley2: Like the orginal comment here on this post, I have noticed that every single type of wick I have tried burns VERY hot! My containers are usually too hot to touch. Use the same wicks in other waxes and that isn't a problem. Also the BIG huge bouncing flames really annoy me. :laugh2:Stella, did your associate tell you if she finds the glass to be very hot in her testing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted September 5, 2007 Share Posted September 5, 2007 It wasn't hot when I picked it up, but I'll ask her. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlebrownbug Posted September 6, 2007 Share Posted September 6, 2007 I use csn 9's double wicked in my 16 oz. apothecary jars and yes the glass does get very hot but they do burn much cleaner and much better than when I tried to use a csn 16 single wick. That one still might acutally work....I will be trying it again this week.Never try to pick up a candle that is lit as it does get a trifle warm to the touch.Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted September 6, 2007 Share Posted September 6, 2007 Never try to pick up a candle that is lit as it does get a trifle warm to the touch.... which is why I picked it up! I wanted to test how warm the outside of the container had become - if the container is too hot to touch, it's too hot to use as a candle container for us. The LAST thing I want is for a customer to pick up a container and burn themselves!Stella, did your associate tell you if she finds the glass to be very hot in her testing?Kmommy, I called her last night and asked and she said the exterior of the container has not increased in temp much as the candle burned down... It was warm but not too hot, as in too hot to touch (I gotta get a thermometer for container surface temps). She used a CDN 12 in that jar and is testing the last inch of candle tonight to see if, when the bottom becomes totally liquid, the wick "wanders." She is testing a new adhesive for the sustainer base. Regarding the wick size, she said she could have wicked down to a 10 if she wanted to leave a thin shell on the inside of the glass, but the 12 left no hangup after the second burn. Don't remember what FO she used... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KMommy Posted September 6, 2007 Share Posted September 6, 2007 First, I want to apologize to the orignal poster of this thread. I didn't mean to "hyjack" the post with any questions. I just wanted to share that my findings in testing are the same as hers. So after this post I'll start another thread if needed. :tiptoe: Thanks Stella for getting back to me on that!Just as the first post here I also find that all wicks I've tested so far are burning too hot. IMO wicking always gets a bit tricky once the container is 3.5 and up. My glass is good quality for candle making so it's not that the glass is too thin. I tested the CDN 12 and in this container it didn't produce a full melt pool even after 5 1/2 hours of burning. My container is 3 1/2 inches wide. The melt pool was uneven. I don't doubt for a moment that the CSN wicks are working well for some people. They just aren't giving me the rusults I would like in my testing for this width of container. In another container maybe they would work great! So far they either don't produce a full melt pool(seem to be too small) or they burn too hot and the I achieve a full melt pool in very little time. The flames are growing too high and wide in a very short period of time and the glass is far too hot for me. I am happy that the CSN's are working out for some of you and I don't doubt your results one single bit. They just aren't working for me. So I'll try another wick! Have fun ladies and create some pretty candles!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KMommy Posted September 6, 2007 Share Posted September 6, 2007 Or "HIjack" Sorry about that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kandlekrazy Posted September 8, 2007 Share Posted September 8, 2007 Now I know it's the palm wax and not the wicks. I tried the Glass Glow and C1 (which is soy & palm) with my standard cotton wicks that I use in plain soy just to see what they would do. The flame is big and bouncy. Has to be the palm as I'm using same fo's as soy. I'm not sure with any wick we'll be able to completely avoid the big bouncy flame with palm. Unless you're willing to trim every hour on the hour...I'm not! The CSN's do it too, but not quite as bad. My glass never got too hot to touch with any of the wicks and it did clean the sides with all tested by the 2nd burn. So a big flame doesn't necessarily mean that your glass will get too hot, especially if it's a thick glass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.