Tizimarezie Posted July 2, 2007 Share Posted July 2, 2007 Ever since the summer heat began, I can't get make a decent looking candle. I've been using EZsoy with 3% BW for the several months and having pretty good luck with it. Only occasionally, I would get some frost on certain FO's & colors....and I've NEVER had wet spots. I've always heated to 175, poured at 100. Lately, frost appears even in FO's and colors that were always frost free in the past and I've got wet spots galore! It's a nightmare! I tried using Coconut Oil and the results are no different than with BW...so went back to BW.I decided to take "Pour slushy" seriously...so I poured "slushy" today....("slushy" happened at about 95 degrees). The candles are WORSE! They have flecks of white all throughout the entire candle. Resembles tiny wax flakes that didn't melt. I can't believe how much wax, FO and dye I've killed in the past three days and I still don't have a decent looking candle.What do I do now? Add more BW?...less BW? CHANGE WAX?!?! Okay, yes. So, what's a REALLY good, easy to use, one pour, no frost, throws superb (hot and cold), no wet spots, easy to wick wax blend?TIA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lsbennis Posted July 2, 2007 Share Posted July 2, 2007 Try GL 70/30 or KY has a 70/30 also...! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tizimarezie Posted July 2, 2007 Author Share Posted July 2, 2007 Thanks for responding. Are these two waxes similar in how they perform? In other words, is it just a matter of which one has lower shipping costs or is there a difference in the way they each perform?Thanks again!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carriegsxr6 Posted July 2, 2007 Share Posted July 2, 2007 Thanks for responding. Are these two waxes similar in how they perform? In other words, is it just a matter of which one has lower shipping costs or is there a difference in the way they each perform?Thanks again!!those are actually soy/paraffin blend waxes. are you trying to stick with soy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kandlekrazy Posted July 2, 2007 Share Posted July 2, 2007 Have you tried to eliminate the beeswax yet? I know how you feel, the humidity got up to 80% and my candles went downhill!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tizimarezie Posted July 2, 2007 Author Share Posted July 2, 2007 Carrie, I'd like to stick with soy but if it means I'll be battling frost issues every time the weather changes, I can't afford to contiually test every season. I've been waiting for a product called "Frostop" to be re-introduced but I can't wait any more. Not even sure if THAT would resolve all the problems my wax is giving me right now because I have wet spots, too. Is there a magic soy wax blend out there?kandlekrazy, do you use BW and are you having better luck by eliminating it?TIA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kandlekrazy Posted July 2, 2007 Share Posted July 2, 2007 This week I elminated everything...using C-3 and 415 blended, but no beeswax and no coconut oil. For some reason the humidity really makes ugly candles here on the west coast. They are coming out without the wet spots and frosting, but really ugly tops this week, but the heat gun takes care of that issue...but I'm not using the same wax as you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PurpleHippie Posted July 2, 2007 Share Posted July 2, 2007 I know everyone has been on the coconut oil bandwagon lately but it really increased the wet spots for me. I also find that the humidity increases problems like you have mentioned. EZ soy is one of the worse soys for frosting IMO. I've tried additives that help a little but within a few weeks sometimes just a few days the frosting appears. As for testing I find that I MUST test at least a couple of candles each time I get in a new batch of wax to make sure I am getting the same results from the previous batch. With soy changing so much from batch to batch there were many times I had to start re-testing and changing wicks. Better to discover a wick problem before the order goes out. . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Munch Posted July 4, 2007 Share Posted July 4, 2007 Mornin All- This was part of a thread started on 05/16 by aimgrace that was very helpful to me. I live in Florida with our wonderful weather. Don't know if any of this will apply to you but once I did what Stella and dawg said I've had NO wet spots since. Wanted to pass along in case it helps. You can THANK STELLA1952 and 2rottndogs!Re: Wet spots that won't go away.... STELLA1952 Posts: Parson's Sudsy Ammonia can be found with cleaning supplies in nearly any grocery store or WalMart. Because it's an "old-fashioned" product, it will probably be near the bottom of the shelf. Sometimes it has lemon added as a scent, etc., but just straight sudsing ammonia of ANY brand will do just fine. It smells to high heaven (duh - it's AMMONIA), so use in a well-ventilated area. The fumes won't kill ya, but they sure will make your nose run and are generally offensive to most noses. Use the hottest water your hands can stand both to wash and to rinse. Use a CLEAN washing cloth to wipe every interior surface, then rinse. It takes a lot longer to write about it than it does to wash a couple of dozen pieces of glassware.I use about a half-cup in a sinkful of hot water. That's a moderately strong solution.I was remiss in my earlier posts in not mentioning safety cautions and ammonia... three whacks with a wet safety belt for me!WARNING: If your skin is at all sensitive, WEAR GLOVES. This stuff has a very high pH (very alkaline) and will cause chemical burns at high concentrations. Ammonia is a great household product for cutting wax build-up off floors and grease off nearly anything. Do NOT mix it with other household products (except detergents with no other additives, like Spic 'n' Span), especially bleach. Ammonia + sodium hypoclorite (bleach) = DEADLY chlorine gas. Even a couple of whiffs of chlorine gas will send one to the hospital with chemical pneumonia.Quote:I had no idea Manufacturers put stuff in their candles. I've just been pouring right in I am not sure what you mean... if you mean the glassware, ALL glassware, plasticware, should be washed before using! It isn't sterile when one buys it! Of course manufacturing residue will be present, as will dust, etc. from shipping, even if the product is sealed (it only takes one house fire to respect how fumes can damage the contents of sealed containers. Don't ask me how I know... it was a nightmare).If you are referring to additives to wax, nearly ALL wax has additives in it from the manufacturer - emulsifiers, etc. that will make their product more manageable. Some wax works pretty well straight out of the bag, but other waxes need a little of dis or dat to tame them to your appliaction and expectations. It takes some experimentation on a chandler's part to learn what works for them. Keep good records of your pours and experiments and soon, you will discover what works best for you! END OF POSTI also used 2rottndogs advice of the DAWN dish soap and it has worked beautifully..Thx Dawg! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Munch Posted July 4, 2007 Share Posted July 4, 2007 Forgot to tell you all I use Ecosoya Pure for containers. Have a safe 4th! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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